Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
|
Peter
Bonnie sent me this a while back-my recollection was the bongs were from Long and not Chouinard? Big write up from Mr Kamps, hey what! Mellow man he was.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
|
Guido, you mean bongs like these?
They are Longware bongs, given to me by Leif Patterson's family, and now in the Yosemite Climbing Association collection. (I have one as a keepsake/paperweight.) The largest is 5.8" at the widest.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
|
Well, Joe, that was a loquacious Bob Kamps there, yeah! From 1962. What was the story on the FA? What were the trips up the talus and how long was he on the thing? It was A4 according to the Green and red guides. And I have to agree given the equipment.
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 04:06am PT
|
Peter and Anders
First pitch was 7 hours and for some reason,for what it is worth I think the bongs were made by Long. I was working part time for Long in his "garage" while he slaved away in Med school and I had a good supply of them. Couple of things I wrote in the past may clarify or cloud the first ascent. My notes are buried in one of hundreds of boxes in storage.
I do recollect one funny incident on the approach when Kamps stepped on a group of baby rattlesnakes. When I called him back he told me how cute they were and he hoped he didn't injure them! We made the trip up to the Hourglass a number of times and it was always a different adventure.
Ed's thread- Name This Route:
Ed
Funny, I didn't recognize this. But 46 years is a long time and there are some gray areas, whereas other memories are still vivid. The summer of 1962 was a busy one. Lots of climbing with Sacherer and Kamps. Sacherer and I had an agreement to climb all the classic Grade 5 routes. In between we would work on shorter first ascents that we both had our eyes on. Ribbon Falls area always had an attraction, especially the Hourglass. After several attempts on the right side we reached the tree.
Time for a break so we headed off to climb the first one-day ascent of the North Buttress of Middle Cathedral. I had done lots of climbing with Sacherer, but on this occasion all hell broke loose in our relationship. At one point, he was out 60 ft on a blank wall, off route, zero protection, flagellating and screaming at me some of his famous epithets. I threatened to keep belaying but detach myself from the rope; I would have my own anchor. Near the top, on some fairly dicey third class he asked me to throw him a rope. I let loose with some fairly abusive language myself and quickly headed down to the Valley. Needless to say we climbed together little from then on. We remained good friends, but our climbing relationship suffered.
Back to the Hourglass; Sacherer teamed up with Kamps to finish the Right Side. Later Kamps and I would make the first ascent of the Hourglass Left Side. As always climbing with Kamps was the ultimate pleasure and a memorable experience indeed. As always I wore shorts and deservedly suffered for several weeks from abrasion.
For years I would return to the majestic Ribbon Falls amphitheater, sometimes set up a "base camp" and just explore. Thank you for opening up the doors for a memorable peek at the past.
"When Kamps and I did the first ascent of the Left Side of the Hourglass in the early 60s, he used a masterful combination of Long bongs, placed back-to-back,edgewise, with a sling in center both for aid and protection on that wild first pitch. I can't begin to imagine how Haan led the roof and undercling free, years later".
I posted this a while back. Yes, that was the crux. Tenuous even for a flyweight like Mr Kamps.
joe
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
|
where the threshold of gravity meets the threshold of friction, stout men and women thrive.
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
Nice Rik-why are my fingers sweating?
Also the thought of a hanging belay off that bolt Kamps placed just gives me chills when I compare it to the superb status of current bolt methodology.
|
|
Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 10:05am PT
|
You should see the old hexes that Donny Reid found at the base of the Hourglass after the 1981(?) earthquake. # 11 hex accordioned down to about 2". I think the flake moves a little
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 10:35am PT
|
This is the first time I have heard that you guys set up a hanging belay at the bolt....
Thanks tons Rik for the account.
Oh, and if anyone wants to replace that bolt with a modern 3/8" stainless steel one, I am all in favor of it. Put it in the hole of the old 1/4" compression 1962 Kamps unit though.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
|
Man, I wish I had a camera when we were doing those routes back then. I'd love to see some modern day images of this climb.
I'm rather surprised Rik had a problem with this route, hard as it is, because Rik was every bit as good as any of us back then. Probably jut an off day for RR.
The main problem with Hourglass L., BITD, was the mank pro. If that 1/4 inch bolt would have blown you'd have been in deep water. Modern cams must take some of the sting out of this. Also, back in the early 1970s, the right side basically had no pro as I remember.
That stuff on the Hourglass is rugged.
JL
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
|
If the belay was set up below the bolt (although using it), anchors could have been installed near the tiny roofette thing about 6 feet lower. You can see this spot in the photos. I have to think that is where Jim would have set a belay rather than just bare-assed at the bolt with nothing else in between the belayer and the leader as he faces the long scary crux section, viz a category 2 fall--- I don't think so. Plus the hulabaloo of changing from the offwidth to the undercling was in itself really bitchy, weird as hell, and exhausting not to mention really committing.
I think someone may be headed up to re-do the one bolt out of the tree on the right side, by the way, Largo. Maybe Les Wilson's son and grandson (David and Chase)... someone was talking about doing this recently. That bolt was ridiculous--- a self-drill-in thing with a cap screw going into it and the only thing available for more than 70 feet I think when you start getting chockstones and the thing is then an S-chimney.
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
|
I had not heard Rik's story until a few weeks ago when we were at the Sacherer Remembrance. Cool story, Rik.
A few years ago I posted this Valley vignette:
On a fine day, Jim asked me to go bouldering with him. It was an odd request because Jim didn't have much interest in bouldering, and my interest in bouldering was limited to finding nice sunny flat ones near the Merced where I could create romantic enticements in my search for the meaning of life.
But, how could I refuse.
I assumed that we would go to the standard boulders with all the caulk marks that ended near the Mountain Room, but Jim started off towards Manure Pile Buttress. I pointed out a few interesting looking boulders, which we passed. Then I pointed out that most were covered with moss and had bad landings. Jim persisted, telling me that he thought there was a good place just a bit farther towards Manure Pile Buttress.
Finally, we arrive at a giant stack of three boulders, two on the bottom, and one on top, with a cave like space between. In the cave, the top boulder and one of the bottom boulders formed a straight up, horizontal edge that ran out the along the edge of the cave. I was thinking in terms of a roof jam crack and noted it had a fairly sharp edge but was a horrible width. Also, the rock was covered with moss, pine needles and dirt. And the floor of the cave was boulder strewn and uneven.
What a glorious find, I think to myself.
As I stood and watched, Jim climbed back into this embodiment of the perfect bouldering cave, and from a crouch, reached up with both hands and grabs the edge and underclings out of the cave, moving from right to left. He doesn't try to find foot holds--just pure gut busting underclinging.
When he gets to the end, he steps down to the ground and suggests that we go back to camp.
Sometimes, being with Jim was like channeling the Delphi Oracle.
A few days later, Jim did the second ascent of Peter's Left Side of the Hourglass
From Rik's post my 'few days later' was a bit longer. It is also possible that Jim found a better practice boulder.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
|
Donny Reid's topo has two bolts at the beginning of the horizontal pitch...
sounds like only one of those should be replaced...
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
|
When I was up there photographing the two sides in 2001, I only could see one bolt, Ed. It might be a guidebook error.
|
|
Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
|
Peter, thank you for your photos of this beautiful formation
and your story of first ascend. Did you climbed it with modern gear after all? When you come in 2001 to make those photos have you been tempted to climb it again?
What modern gear would you recommend to protect undercling- is #6 friend will work?, or need bigger gear?
I am surprise that Reid give only one star for Left side of Hourglass and no stars for right side. The book is stingy for stars, but here it seems not fair at all for Hourglass and for Slab Happy Pinnacle
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
|
Alexey -- "I am surprise that Reid give only one star for Left side of Hourglass and no stars for right side."
That's because most people that go there start shi'tting in their pants when they see these two bad boys especially the left side.
The left side is a serious lead especially if you do the whole pitch from the ground across the under-cling to the top of the pitch.
I've been up there 6 times and led that 1st pitch 4 times.
It's a serious mental lead.
I went up there once to on-sight free solo the right side but didn't do it for some reason as I can't remember why.
Maybe it was wet?
More likely I sh'it in my pants that day .....
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
|
Yeah WB, these two routes really are in their own world aren't they!
Alexey, no I cannot climb that hard any more. When I went back to visit and photograph it I was really blown away how horrific the left side is. You can use the biggest C4 (sage) which has a range to 195mm. Nowadays I would imagine you would want at least three or more of them as well for the lead. With the way people are protecting so much more frequently.
The rewards of the long hike and the various perils of climbing the two routes are of course that they are actually five star routes in camouflage. The summit is startling too-- distinct perfect nearly knife-edged. Rappel the rt side; watch out at the tree that your rope DOES NOT GO INTO THE CRACK below the tree.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
|
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
|
Rik,
Thanks for sharing the story of the 2nd free ascent.
Quite interesting about the sling belay at the bolt just before the crux undercling.
In Bridwell's "Brave New World" article (1973), he states:
"The Left Side of the Hourglass, a work of genius by Peter Haan, remains one of the most respected leads of the day. One thinks of the potential fifty-foot fall while leading the overhanging, 5.10 off-width crack after the undercling. This single lead, with its 5.10 hand crack to 5.10 undercling to a 5.10 off-width, all without resting spots, makes the overall rating 5.11, and earmarks the accelerative pitch - in imagination."
This suggests he thought the pitch should be done without the hanging belay, which does provide a resting spot and eliminates the tricky transition from left-side-in ow to undercling. I wonder if he wrote it before or after the ascent you guys made?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!