L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 363 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 08:58am PT

Stubaital

Vulpmes (Fulpmes), Stubaithale

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2015 - 08:38am PT

Joseph Charlet started making ice axes in Chamonix in the 1880s and you still find his name in the Charlet logo of the 1920s. The ice axe you see below is carrying his name. That's a puzzle, since the ice axe shaft is only 45 cm long and you should expect a long-shafted ice axe from this period. Maybe short shafted axes were produced once in a while when ordered?
bamboo

Trad climber
pike co
Apr 27, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
re-hafted or shortened??---nice axe!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 01:05pm PT

Bamboo

Not impossible, and if so, very well done.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 28, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
I love this thread Marlow, please, more old catalogs if you have the resource. Fascinating history and graphics.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 02:03pm PT

Guido.

I recently posted some pages from the OP Karl Knecht catalogue to Japan. This is in part a repetition of the OP, but also some new pages.

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2015 - 02:07pm PT

bamboo

Trad climber
pike co
Apr 28, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
fantastic thread --thanks marlow
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 28, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
Ah, Lunettes Pour Glacier et Guido sur Ledge de Crescent/Fairview. Circa 1960ish

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 11:05am PT


Ice axe, metal/wood, made by Leonhard Kost, used during the Sir Douglas Mawson's Antarctic Expedition, Antarctica, 1911-1914

This ice axe was used for cutting hand and foot holds in ice, and was used during Sir Douglas Mawson's Australasian Antarctic Expedition (AAE), Antarctica, 1911-1914.

One of the objectives of this expedition was the exploration and charting of the largely unexplored coastline of Antarctica. This included meteorological and magnetic observations, and the collection of biological and geological samples. It also aimed to establish a wireless weather station to assist with weather forecasting. Sailing on the Newfoundland sealing vessel 'Aurora', the team entered a part of the world which was then little known.

The expedition was not without tragedy. During a sledding trip to the east of the base with Douglas Mawson, Xavier Mertz and Belgrade Ninnis, a crevasse swallowed up Ninnis, a team of six dogs, and the sled containing most of their food. The survivors began the arduous journey back to base, some 500 kilometres away, during which they ate the remaining dogs for food. Mertz died during the return, leaving Mawson to travel the 100 kilometres back to base alone.

Mawson later led the British, Australian and New Zealand Antarctic Research Expeditions (BANZARE), 1929-1931. The expeditions aimed to assert British territorial claims in Antarctica, and were responsible for the mapping of more than 3000 kilometres of what is now Australian Antarctic Territory coastline. The AA and BANZAR expeditions were two of the most important Australian scientific expeditions of the 20th century, laying the basis for Australia's later claims to almost 42 per cent of the Antarctic continent.

http://www.powerhousemuseum.com
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2015 - 09:39am PT

A history of Everest FA ice axes

Earlier on this thread I wrote that Hillary was carrying a Bhend ice axe during the FA of Everest. This I wrote after reading Bhend history as well as these words on Cold Thistel's blogspot: "Following World War Two, the British Everest expedition, lead by Colonel John Hunt, contracted with Alfred to supply crampons, ice axes and ice hammers, and New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary, and Nepalese climber Tenzing Norgay, carried Bhend ice axes on the first ascent of Everest, in 1953". http://coldthistle.blogspot.no/2014/03/the-ice-axe-that-glows-bhend.html

I mentioned this to Nobi. Nobi sent me some photos from The Conquest of Everest. You can see them below:


In these photos we see Hillary and the ice axe is a Simond Special A. On a Spanish blogspot we find a Hillary signed Simond Special B said to be a replica of the ice axe Hillary carried on Everest. http://elpioletdemadera.blogspot.no/2010/12/el-piolet-de-hillary-para-regalar.html

Nobi also linked a photo of Tenzing Norgay from the FA. Tenzing knew Heinrich Harrer well and Bhend was the favourite ice axe of Harrer. But in this photo from the Everest FA, Tenzing Norgay is carrying an ice axe looking very much like a Simond.


This photo is at present ready to be bought on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TENZING-NORGAY-EVEREST-Signed-Rare-8-X-4-With-Provenance/161724402613?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31356%26meid%3Dcfec2a3414fa4f1dbc9ba01f0d521607%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%2

Photo documentation is important to history, to separate what was from what was not, to separate what one want to have been from what really was. And there is still a chance that the two FA climbers brought Bhend ice axes as their second ice axe during the FA.

Thanks to Nobi!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 8, 2015 - 10:31am PT
It would be interesting to know what crampons Hillary and Tenzing were wearing to confirm that the Bhend Ultralights were standard issue or a matter of preference like the axes.

For a relatively small shop to equip the entire 53 expedition would have been pretty ambitious.

Thanks for pursuing the details here...

I haven't picked up Hunt's account in decades but I should check on that detail.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2015 - 11:17am PT

Allgemeine Deutsche Sport-Ausstellung München 1899
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2015 - 07:49am PT

Sporthaus Carl Biber, München 1931


Sporthaus Biber in Theresienstrasse 46-48, München, were selling three ice axe models in 1931 according to this catalogue. The models were "Zermatter", "Akademiker" and "Paul Preuss".
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2015 - 03:59am PT

Jacques Balmat, 1787, shown with a long Alpenstock and a short axe for cutting steps in the ice.

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 08:21am PT

From "Hochtouren. Ein Handbuch für Bergsteiger. 1893". The German version of Clinton Thomas Dent's book "Mountaineering". Drawings by H. G. Willink.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 08:25am PT

Hochtouren continues
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 08:28am PT

Hochtouren continues
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 08:31am PT

Hochtouren continues
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 12:57pm PT

An ice axe made by Adolphe Simond in Chamonix, possibly year 1890-1900. Length of shaft: 37,5 cm. Length of head: 21,5 cm.

Jacques Balmat, 1787. The head of the short step-cutting axe has not yet a "modern" form.
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