New BD Cams (alien-esque)?

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 88 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Jul 13, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
COOOL! TFPU.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Jul 13, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
Re BD- bashing:

So you are longing for the made-in-US-by-climbers quality as exemplified by, say, CCH aliens?
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Jul 13, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
Huh. Did a bit of digging just now, and that excentric-bearing cam patent (US6042069) was filed by Tony Christianson in 1998. He had previously filed another patent (US4643377) in 1985, which looks surprisingly like the original patent on the U-stem Camalot. I've not seen him named in later BD patents, but seems there might be a relationship there from the dual axle thing and the eccentric-bearing cam thing certainly fits the sound of the stacked axle thing.

Just enough of a connection there to make me really wonder if I've stumbled upon something....
Some Random Guy

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jul 14, 2012 - 11:32am PT
according to outside , available spring 2013 and $70.


Oliv3r

Trad climber
SF
Jul 18, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Just saw this video on Vimeo that describes some of the new features.

http://vimeo.com/45890691
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Another photo via Facebook.



 Luke
phile

Trad climber
SF, CA
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
I can't tell from the video--is the axle like a crankshaft? or what?

phil
dbornhop

Trad climber
nasvhille, tn
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
if you want pin scar protection by the tried and true, off-set aliens now manufactured by Fixe. By the way someone want to buy my unused set of off-set mastercams? I bet the BD copy works as well as the metoleous version. wrong cam angle, different material, less flexibility etc. seriously they have only been to the leap once.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
i did not read all the comments here..

it is the expectation, not the exception,
that BD would have copied someone else.

like shoe-e -nard equipment before, since the departure of Tom Frost, and folks that was a looong time ago,
one is hard pressed to see an original design that came from, as we used to call the quanset hut hangout, the iron works...
Ok .. Julio improved the biner.. and a commission to outside engineers birthed the Camalot... but otherwise???

it all worked i guess, but i think without the exceptions above, the original was better than the diamond c copy.

Big Ego, good employer, yes, product developer,? not so much.

If you know or knew enough about gear, you did not have a single diamond on your rack,
that is of course unless it was a Salathe pin, because even the logo, was a copy. (old Salathe pins were made by the Diamond Peninsula Company, a Diamond P.
The Call Of K2 Lou

climber
Squamish
Jul 18, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
So because a company makes a product there instead of here, it's obviously terrible f#&%ing garbage and the company should be boycotted forever, despite their rigorous testing practises and the fact that not once has one of their "Chinese" products ever let me down. Well, all right I guess. At least I can reassure myself that America has never made a single bad product since the dawn of time.
(Something about that sentence has me fixated on the KFC "fried chicken as a bun" sandwich and those shi##y gold-clad coins with the twin towers that stand up. And the car companies.)
Synchronicity

Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
Jul 18, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
I just want to thread drift here and say the The Call of K2 Lou is possibly the most subtly clever nickname I've seen on here, oh and yeah the cams look interesting but unless they are way cheaper and better than aliens I'm going with the aliens. If it ain't broke...
Foxtail

Social climber
Graham, Washington
Jul 18, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
What is the quality control and testing on the cam material, cables, crimping, etc? How are they tested? What is the hardness tested too what controls are in place? Who do you have in place to assure quality control? Are the certifyed according to U.S. Standards?

Ed
Keeter

Mountain climber
Durango, CO
Jul 18, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
I'm going to have a look at them in the morning, will be interested to see where they fit into the overall scheme and how close these may be to production
Some Random Guy

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jul 18, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
i am in no real hurry to replace my master cams since they are not even that old but i am honestly more excited about the new biners. especially the oz color coded rack pack. i've been waiting a while for that one. the hood wire incorporation looks pretty sweet. i was having uber problems unclipping skinny ropes from the regular oz biners last winter whilst ice climbing.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/carabiners/oz-rackpack

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/carabiners/oz-carabiner

hiker-climber

climber
Jul 19, 2012 - 12:27am PT
I'd rather buy stuff just as good that is not OUTSOURCED to China.

Climbing gear has, until recently, largely been a cottage industry. BD, CAMP, Evolv, etc. shipping jobs overseas just shows that they simply want to make as much money off you as they possibly can. Would you trust a Wall St. executive with your life?

In such a (relatively) small industry, how you spend your dollars can really affect how companies act.
Keeter

Mountain climber
Durango, CO
Jul 19, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
The larger cams, as stated above, are dual axle. The smaller ones use a camshaft type lobe with a smaller lobe for the outside cams and larger for the insides to give a greater range than a traditional single axle.

The cam face materials are the same as in the C3's. The parts are all machined in Salt Lake and then shipped to BD Asia for assembly, the same as they do with their carabiners. The set is designed to cover a size range in 6 sizes that is equal to 7 sizes in mastercams or 8 sizes in aliens.

Finish on the samples seems good.
bootysatva

Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
Jul 20, 2012 - 10:06am PT
I will not buy these if they are made/assembled in China. Stuff needs to come from as nearby as possible for a sustainable economy. Once it becomes booty tho I am all over it.

Economic factors lead to bass ackwards systems such as shipping parts thousands of miles to make them cheaper. the cost of these methods are absorbed somewhere, usually in cost to the environment or local people.

Vote with your dollars.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Jul 24, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
http://vimeo.com/45890691

Found this on UKC.
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Jul 24, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
This made MP the other day...

Bob Culp

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
They look pretty darn good to me.
Messages 61 - 80 of total 88 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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