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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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RADness, Luke! Great job! That pic looks like the belay on top of the "recliner ledge" just before the orange headwall. Did you get to try the "right" route or anything new?
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Yup that's the ledge before some serious crimping... We took the middle seam which had the hardest moves on the route (for me). Did you guys go up the middle or the right seam? We didn't get to the right Croft-Rands route.
We did a new route on the right side but we didn't free it. It was pretty dirty so the leader mostly aided and cleaned and then the follower tried to free it. The crux section might go at 5.12+/13. The crux pitch is overhanging tips and a 6 foot section of crack seemed very hard. I couldn't even do the individual moves. The final pitch on our new route, however, was the cherry on top. 50+ meters of bomber handcrack with a few cruxier sections. Sent onsight on lead and followed clean.
We also also did some other recon on the right wall. I posted up about it more on Mountain Project.
 Luke
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
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Wow! That's some awesome stuff! I placed gear in the same seam that you guys climbed, but I used the left one at the start as well, using the two seams for sidepulls. That was the only section I didn't onsight, so maybe it was the hardest!? It took me a while to go up and down and clean out the lichen out of the seam to place 00 C3 and I finally got pumped. I lowered and sent next try, though.
I did think that it was the accumulated fatigue that got me on that pitch and that the 3rd pitch was harder overall. The moves to get into the thin hand crack at the end of the pitch had me very pumped. Up to then the rock was very clean, but that crack on the left side of the huge roof had so much lichen in it that my jams just wouldn't stick. I climbed up and down into it 3 times completely pumped out of my mind only to have my hands slip out when I tried to pull around the corner. Apparently, when I was on the verge of falling I used a knee bar under something sharp there that saved me and I now have a huge scar on my knee even though I had 2 pairs of pants on.
That's me after the 3rd pitch:
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Not sure if this qualifies, but Claude Fiddler's West Arete of Mt. Ritter
"The west escarpment of Mt. Ritter (13,157′) stretches over the headwaters of the San Joaquin River. This impressive wall is steep and the rock suspect, but an arête leading from Ritter Lakes basin to the summit was too hard to resist, especially since there weren’t any climbing routes on this side of the peak. From the inlet of the middle Ritter Lake we gained a couple of hundred feet to the toe of the arête. We stayed either on the arête or on the north side to the summit. Two thousand vertical feet of class five (up to 5.7, with some care-be-taken easier scrambling, brought us to the summit register." ~ Claude Fiddler http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/contiguous-united-states-lower-48/california/2009-ritter-by-c-fiddler/
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 11, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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WOW, Luke awesome photos and great job. I was looking at that side of the peak wondering why are there not many more lines being put up by the stronger crowd. Thanks for posting.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Jul 12, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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Soooooo nice! That's some classic HCG right there.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 12, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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great thread- keep it coming.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jul 23, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
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I think this needs a bump.
Anyone been on Samurai Warrior out at the Bubbs Creek Wall?
Sounds like a mega route! Great Epperson photo, I'd love to see more of the route.
I've read the news blurb in Alpinist. Was there more written in the AAJ? There is a short blurb in the 1998 journal of the FA but nothing about the FFA.
I also found that there is a short description in the Secor guide. I guess there is only one pitch of 5.12 which is face climbing.
A)Crystal Bonzai (B)Samurai Warrior (C)Whats up Bubb (D)Beckey Rt.
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bernd
climber
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:24am PT
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Great routes to be climbed! Chamberlin and Merrimam Peak!!!
I wanted to share the topo for our climb on 4th Needle. Greg, Wross and I went back up last August to straighten some pitches and free the aided section from the FA. I moved two pins and the are now as shown in the topo.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Bernd, thanks for posting a topo. That looks like a sweet route! I'll have to definitely get on that next time!
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Jul 30, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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Great thread Vlad. I am salivating. I should get stronger and then we should do some more climbing..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 31, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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This thread gets the double thumbs up!
Keep 'em coming.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Aug 13, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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Bump for splitter porn. Inspire me, people!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Aug 13, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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I have nothing to really add to this thread. Just diggin' the good pictures and stories. Keep 'em comin.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Is Airstream really the only 5.13 in the high sierra??
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 13, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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I guess there is another one at the hulk:
"Nalazak 5.13- ?! its a variation to the Venturi Effect, starts at the belay of the second pitch of Venturi and goes for 70 meters to the rap anchor just below the main ledge. My friend Jake and I made the first ascent of this massive pitch last year and would love for someone to repeat it!
Its the crack/corner above the second pitch of Venturi, goes up to a small roof and into an overhang section into the corner/crack just right of the chimney pitch on Positive. Then it pulls onto the arete for the final 11+ section of the pitch. Mostly thin gear and many draws and slings , like 23 of them. 80 meter rope is better than a 70 unless the belayer wants to simul the first part."
See the last page of: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=896599&tn=0&mr=0
Luke
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
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Both on the Hulk- appropriate!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Aug 24, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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Anyone done Silver Cloud out on Merriam?
My friend and I went up exploring for new routes, we climbed an incredible 3 pitches to the top of the lower east buttress, from here we rapped into a notch, and climbed behind the giant leaning finger/pillar. We climbed out the left side and gained the east face headwall where we climbed a long (200ft) pitch of hands and fingers in a bullet leftfacing corner. At the large 'throne room' ledge high on the east buttress, we walked right and climbed the final pitch of the NE Buttress to the summit ridge.
The description of Silver Cloud does mention a rap, but the topo and the description both sound like it starts out of the large gully on the east side of the peak. I am positive that the first 3 incredible pitches were new, but anyone been up there on Silver Cloud for those east face pitches??
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