Black Canyon Stories

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Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 09:45am PT

Fry Guy. First go to www.photobucket.com (other places will also work)- start an account (for free). Upload the images from your personal computer to the photobucket site. Then see the following supertopo link about referencing your individual images within a post:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum_help.html (this is the help link that you would see when you are posting).

Kevin. You had earlier mentioned wanting beta on Shattered Glass. I don't know about that one (although, frankly, it doesn't look that good). Might I suggest another Long Draw route, the Great White Wall? I know some people who think that this is pretty chossy, but I remember enjoying it greatly.

As recently as the early '90s, topos for these climbs were hard to come by. I ran into Jim Nigro in 1991 or 1992 one night at camp. He drew up a topo for me and my buddy Clare of the Great White Wall - from memory when he did it 4 years earlier. Personally, I found that to be amazing. If I don't write it down within a few days, I might as well not have done a climb. Anyhow, we did the climb the next day. It turned out that we did get lost for a bit early on, but we found our way. I love the adventures.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Apr 25, 2006 - 09:58am PT

Wait a minute, Grug.

So you soloed a route right of Kor's arete?
Must've been onsight?
'Sounds hhmmm, adventurous?

FryGuy calls his route Alpine Arete, which I assume to mean Kor's arete, but Kor's arete is 5.9, not 5.6. I gather he means predominately 5.6? Kor's is rather more an Alpine Looking Arete. I vaguely recall that as a second name. Minor clarification please...

FryGuy: email me today with your phone number, if you have access to a computer during the day and I'll talk you through some of the photo posting details.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 10:15am PT

Tarbuster - the free-solo wasn't a big deal. It was done more to avoid hiking out the SOB. So, we should do a route together in the Black, Tar! Maybe you're that guy I'm looking for to do Stratosfear with!

Fry Guy

Trad climber

Bondale, CO

Apr 25, 2006 - 10:34am PT

Tarbuster - Robbie calls the route we did "Alpine Route-5.6" in his guidebook. He states that there is little possibility of the route actually being 5.6 but I would have to disagree. I think it could stay 5.6 if followed correctly. I'm not sure if this is Kors Arete. It's located just to the right of Porcelain Arete in an area Robbie refers to as the Alpine Aretes. Maybe someone else has more clarification.

Grug said he soloed next to Russian Arete. Are you saying the Russian is Kors Arete? Sh#t their all Kors aretes:-)

Thanks for the info on adding a photo. I should be able to figure it out from here. I'll post a few soon.

Fry Guy

Trad climber

Bondale, CO

Apr 25, 2006 - 11:19am PT

Questionable photo shoot. This guy should be arrested. Don't do this anymore kids!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Apr 25, 2006 - 11:37am PT

That's a good start Fry!
(600high by 800 wide is a good rule of thumb. I like to size my photos no taller than 570 and no wider than 770)

More Please!
cheers,
Tarbousier

Fry Guy

Trad climber

Bondale, CO

Apr 25, 2006 - 12:13pm PT

Who likes stickers?

Off route on the Alpine route.

BrentA

Gym climber

estes park

Apr 25, 2006 - 01:41pm PT

That story gave me a hard-on. If someone had happend upon us on the hike out they would have sworn something horrible had happened that day we were both limpin so badly. I've got that smile back Ry, you should come do some thug sh#t with me out here...

That top photo is the result of 3lbs of licorice...and an OZ of CO's finest.

Who cares what the grade was, or what the route was, that day was sick!

"Robbie's guidebook calls it...", like that means shizzle....lol.

Luv ya Robbie, come party wit me.

A NIGRO SHOUTOUT!!!!!! Everyone send some good Jah Jim's way, tuff season for a hard mofo.

kevin Fosburg

Sport climber

park city,ut

Apr 25, 2006 - 08:17pm PT

I think this thread is just starting to hit its stride. It must not be burried beneath discussions of war-mongering, sentimentality, or trigger-bar specifications! The Black Canyon is rad!
I will take your reccomendation of the Great White Wall to heart Grug. Someone else said the same. Also, Stratosphere is on my all-time to do list so if you are feeling ropegunnish...

kevin Fosburg

Sport climber

park city,ut

Apr 25, 2006 - 08:39pm PT

Also, BrentA, an oz.? Really?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Apr 25, 2006 - 08:43pm PT

He lies Kev, let's raid what we know to be left of his stash...

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Apr 25, 2006 - 09:53pm PT

My worst bivouac took place in fine weather, with all the right gear, at the bottom of the Black Canyon. Tom and I had scrambled and rapped down Chillumstone Gully, and set up camp by the river. Our plan was to find and climb the Kor-Culp route on South Chasm View Wall the next day. We had no topo or route description, only an impressionistic sketch by Bob Culp indicating a large ramp-like feature that we should somehow connect with.

After dining on cheese and salami I crawled into my half-bag, fell asleep and went straight to hell. Madness and pain. Dozens of voices spoke to me at once, but I could not make out what they said. The darkness around our campsite grew orange-colored, whether my eyes were open or closed. I was no longer asleep but could not wake up. I could barely move my hands through the heavy orange air. Muscles and joints all hurt terribly. No position gave relief. I did not understand what was happening to me, and could not describe it to Tom. The night seemed endless.

Morning light brought weak clarity. I knew that I was sick, that we were at the bottom of the Black Canyon, and we had to climb out although I could barely sit up. Tom took most of our gear and led back up the gully. I followed at the slowest possible pace, lying down on the talus whenever black spots swirled around. The crux was a fifth-class section past the huge Chillumstone. I belayed and then climbed with no strength, feeling almost a ghost. Wasted, we topped out in mid-afternoon.

On the long drive back to Boulder, we stopped for coffee at a cowboy cafe. Some locals tried to pick a fight because they took us for dirty hippies. Dirty we were, and I looked like the strung-out addict you don't want in your town.

I spent the next days in bed, while tick fever ran its course.

BrentA

Gym climber

estes park

Apr 26, 2006 - 01:55am PT

Kev,

No, I didn't personally consume the OZ myself...but we scored in Boulder, and its about 7 hours (drivin slow) to the N. Rim. Four of us in the truck, Ry and I in the back (witht the bag, and the licorice), I leave the math and conjecture to the viewing audience.

I remember a pitch on the Great White Wall being exactly what I started climbing in the Black for...RP's and thinish (probably only 5.9) climbing. Another thumbs up route in the Black. My partner is a heavy set local Gunni boy, and played fullback in college, he went about 215 at the time. He is the only partner in all my years of climbng that I created indepenant and equalized upward pull anchors for in the Black. He whiipped off that hard pitch like a MILLION times.

Same partner, different outiing....Colorado Welcome Party. First pitch is the beef, and I've forgotten my shoes. Kruthaupt lends me his (11 1/2 to my usual 8 1/2) and I'm trying to fight my way through the tough stuff, winding up down climbing and eventually bailing. He charges up the same pitch and fuqing hucks without fear about 6 times before he bails too. Big falls!

You can't teach tuff.

Keep it comin, I've got more stories, but I love everyone else's way better.

kevin Fosburg

Sport climber

park city,ut

Apr 26, 2006 - 08:34am PT

Still though, Brent.
I'm starting to get the impression that the Black is a "traditional" climbing area. I like it even more, especially in the abstract.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2006 - 08:29pm PT

Bump. (I just wanted to finally do that).

For the record, this thread STILL does not have a Stratosfear story...

Or how about a Hallucinagen Wall story? I KNOW there's
LOT's of folks who have done that.