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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I'm really intrigued by Tami's Roller Coaster Chimney, Midnight Rock, Leavenworth, WA.: I've climbed at Midnight rock and drooled over the book and at the rock over Easter Overhang and Black Widow (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/easter-overhang/105809794);, but I don't remember Roller Coaster Chimney climb. I'm afraid I might be a bit over the hill for it now, but maybe not!
Has no one mentioned Peter Pan yet? I did it way back when snakes walked, but I remember that as being to totally cosmic, back in the bowels of El Cap dark yet shiny palace/cathedral. I've backed off the approach pitches since and heard of better climbers than me backing off them, too.
Just because I have a photo of them I'm putting in one from the last real climb I did in fine style, and it's at the end of a stellar pitch of 60 M of moderate (5.7-5.9) offwidth and squeeze: the E Face of Lexington Tower. Here is a photo from where I mistakenly belayed. I should have stepped to climber's left.
Ok, finally "The Stairs of Krith Ungol" (photo credit Tony)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I believe this is Scott Cole starting up pitch 1 of Middle Parallel Space Vedauwoo...
Gary emerging from TM Chimney Vedauwoo, before going back into it...
spyork in Elevator Shaft Yosemite
Gary on Moby Dick, Left Yosemite, after the flake fell out...
Gary coming up p2 of Loggerhead Buttress Yosemite
and finishing in p3
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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The Tempest on Shakespeare rock in glen brook at Lake Tahoe. the last pitch goes up ( what Minerals referred to as "The jolly green Giants ass crack"), moderate climbing but the the views of lake Tahoe are rewarding. And you are multiple pitches of the deck.
Also the seldom done east chimney experience at the Leap......for the flora and fauna aficionados this climb is amazing. You are climbing next to ferns and all sorts of stuff....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock is character building, if you stay in the crack. There are face holds out to the left by which one can avoid the business (cheat past the crux), but none of us would stoop to such things.
ps Save a big cam for the top of the pod.
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The Tramp
Trad climber
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Generator station; because it's a battle!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anders; Thanks for the beta. I need a rope gun, though, and even then it would be dicey!
Ed H: Very nice set of photos. Is Moby Dick, Left easier or more difficult since the loss of the chockstone/flake? That's another one I did back before the dawn of time (Fall 1970, to be more precise).
This thread is good!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I didn't do Moby Dick, Left before the flake fell out so I don't know, there is a bit of run out where I think the flake was, with no good pro
the thing is an ass kicker no matter what... I should go and do it again, it would be good for me...
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Moby Dick left was substantially more challenging before the flake fell out. I did it several times that way in the early '60s. Just as you were nearing the top, you would run out of pro and have to go clear to the outside edge of the chimney to get around the flake. I don't know the story on how the flake came out; but it is quite a relief to just be able to keep going straight up the chimney.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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The last bit of Primrose Dihedrals on Moses- 5.easy- makes you tunnel lizard like through Moses' brain after the best tower route I've been on.
Lover's Chimney at Lover's Leap 5.5- plenty of pro, deep within the bowels of the leap- but a couple of windows between huge wedged blocks let in the light- and you can go sit on them for some fresh air- plus an exciting exit. I've never climbed anything quite like it.
The 5.9 squeeze to top out the north six shooter
Entrance Exam- I list this because when I did it it was soooo dirty and you have a long time with groundfall potential on the first pitch. One of my prouder survival moments.
First pitch of eb of el cap- pretty easy for 5.9- nice ego boost
Hands down best chimney anywhere is the alternate start to Rimshot on the Bridger Jack. After some hard ow, you find yourself in a perfectly triangular shaped chimney. Imagine chimneying up the inside of a 3 sided pyramid. There's a #5 crack and tight .75 crack in two of the corners. Most unique chimney ever.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 08:47am PT
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Let's go climb some chimneys already!!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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"Favorite Chimney" is an oxymoron.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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So many chimneys so little time.Canīt believe no ones mentioned the worst error.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Kevin mentioned Worst Error up thread...
...I've been waiting to line partners up for "the year of the Elephant" but so far it hasn't happened, I'm weak!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Anyone done Ahab?
Moby Dick has been mentioned several times, Ahab is right next door. I've never tried it, but I've heard its brutal!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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I have done ahab a few times. It's really not that bad. Classic physical valley climbing.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Clint, yes I missed your EC Spire post. shame on me.
What bothers me is
WHY GO BACK ON SUCH A RUBBLE HEAP AS THE SALATHE?
:)
Why indeed go on the route if you have doubt about chimneys? To say you did the route.
I have one claim to fame, eternally pic-turd for all to see in my sister's knickers.
Since Lenna had her baby she no longer fit them and gave them to me so I could look good on nordic skis.
I speak of the b/w of Moby Dick chimney in Galen Roweel's Vertical World of Yosemite.
Someplace in the article on the Muir Wall, I think. I can't tell you all how flucking flattered I was to see that.
But I backed off after he snapped the photo so it's bogus. Just a shot of a potentially dramatic situation. I have never led it.
The lying camera. Leads us up the darkened chimney.
It was the day a bunch of us were laming around the bays of El Cap, seeking shade. George Meyers, Andy Cox, maybe one or two others, def them two, joined at the hip.
Up troops Gay Lens and Jean Neal to climb the John, she all flushed with excitement. She failed to follow.
He offered me a chance to embarrass myself yet again. Redemption. I climbed it and cleaned, no effort involved.
From higher on the John,he snapped Cox: his lens had popped out (Andy's glasses, not Gay's lens) as he chimneyed.
I think that would have been put away in G's files. Cox. The coke-bottle kid. Climbing the devil's chimneys now. Galen too.
We still have the pictures. The chimneys still yawn. Some stories get forgotten. Saved by the Taco. This time.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Burlesque in Red Rocks...could not get through (chimney has a surprise constriction inside):
Community Pillar in RR..did get through but it took some will power (& over an hour of my day):
Archimedes rotue in Greece's Meteora - fun as you chimney out horizontally above the 3 pitches you've just climbed
same deal as above except on E-perch's Sunrise book rt in Idaho:
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bag
climber
san luis obsipo, ca
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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10th or 11th pitch on the Lorax.(lost my topo) 5.7 no pro for the whole ropelength.
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