Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
|
Around '70, I was so convinced that the Pirate would go free, that I tried to round up someone to go with me. (I was confident I could edge on my imagination with those epoxied Cortinas). Failing to recruit anyone, I rigged a top rope and a prussik one day and got some of it anyway.
Steve G.-Can't believe you have Harrell's email!!
Tony-funny, it's spelled Hoodenett in my guide. HA. Agree it's one of my favorites too.
Just for grins, here's the little roof higher on Le Toit in '67. This would have been tough in Kronhofers, even with epoxy and sans the brass nails.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
|
Hell, you gotta leave the Paisano on there just because any list of classic climbs should have at least one that's going to flake out the chaff, cut the fluff, and separate the men from the boys. reference: Hummingbird Ridge
I'd agree with that except I think your example is off.
Has to at least be climbed some, before and/or since.
I just don't think you can call a route "classic" that you did the FA of, that nobody else either will climb, or, can. Just doesn't fit at least part of my criteria for "classic".
The 'proj lists are pretty nifty. Great to know some of the background on them. Thanks!
Pretty neat to look at some of my local areas...(Wasatch, LCC). Nice spread of grades. User driven, and, really nails some nice stuff. If I were a visiting climber, I'd be pretty good to go.
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
|
A K dog is right, that might have been my first climb ever.
It was totally sketchy and between bolts and giant rippers were possible with the hand over hand technique.
I think we were both lucky to live!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
|
Point taken.
My comment was meant more about the formation of such lists than the routes as unequivocal "classics" (whatever that means). Always like to see something on them that will only be tackled by the truly list faithful.
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 06:02pm PT
|
That is (sorta) exactly the reason why Fingertip Traverse deserves a place on the low end of this list. Seriously.
Yep.
Another one that won't make any lists because it's a link up, but is one of the best climbs there is to link Daves Deviation, Jam Crack, Piton Pooper and Upper Royal's Arch.
The Jam Crack pitch doesn't stand out, but the rest of it is about as good as it gets.
Daves and the Pooper for the quality of the moves and the upper arch for the position and exposure.
|
|
Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
|
I've got 11, all the sub 5.10's and the pirate on aid.
TGT- Did that link up just the other day, my favorite in Idyllwild.
|
|
DonC
climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
|
Well, since some are contributing wars of long ago, here are a few of mine...
my brother at the beginning of Chingadera
me aiding low on Green Arch - around 1968. I did manage to free this in the mid 90's - absolutely spectacular.
just entering the arch
my brother and Lee Harrell on Serpentine in 1967 the weekend after Lee and Pat did the 1st ascent. My brother and I then did it the following weekend.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
|
Open Book...
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
|
Ahhh...free climbing in RR's. Who can forget.....
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
|
I don't have a lot of Idyllwild shots on this computer but here are a few:
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
|
What about caliente ?? just the best
|
|
apogee
climber
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
|
"...Daves Deviation, Jam Crack, Piton Pooper and Upper Royal's Arch."
Oooo...the 'Tahquitz Triple Direct'!
Yes, a must-do, even (esp?) if it doesn't make any lists.
Another quality link-up: Coffin Nail > Traitor Horn
One of my favorite ways to introduce friends to Tahquitz.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
|
Done them all except Green Arch. Dang, is it really possible I never did GA? That ain't right.
Paisano was trivial.
I can't believe no one mentioned Human Fright, mega fave.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
|
The day of the FFA.
Ricky (?) on Insomnia.
Rubideaux Jim Wilson on Valhalla.
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
|
Dee I was going to mention Human Fright. IMO probably the best 10a there
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
|
Clarke Jacobs on Pirate, before it was free.
5 or 6 of us on 2 ropes tied together, Alpine Style. Me going over the top with Mari in foreground.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
|
Knockin' before it was free.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
|
Pat, I concur. That's one route I do most years.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
|
Nice shots Dave!
You almost have to expand the discussion to the best fifty!
Add a touch of Jonah and some Duck Soup and Mechanics and you're in there! LOL
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
|
Dr. F and Swellly: Probably Chucks on the Sundance event. Thinking about it now, that sh#t was nuts. The Fuzz had me out to Stoney Point maybe 3 times before we went and did Sundance. I don't think I'd even been on a rope before.
As for the Buttress of Cracks thing.... my first lead, maybe ever, was Hernia. Those guys gave me a spartan rack and said to head on up. I recall using a #3 Forrest Copperhead as a nut in some lame ass constriction and totally going for it.... as I passed it I think it fell out. The Boxer said I would have died if I fell. For that event I was wearing some REI knockoffs that were supposed to be like Adidas Cross Country's.... with a hard mucilage glue colored sole that did not friction a lick... but they did edge pretty well as I recall. Then we did the Sword of Damocles and some other stuff... maybe Pass Time?? Unreal any of us are still alive today.
As for the list thing.... I'm like 18.5 for 20. Never tried the Green Arch, aided the Pirate with the Moon Fuzz in that same early time frame and a few years later got stuck in Paisano and almost died.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!