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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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1987
Peter Croft solos Astroman
Peter Croft FA Excellent Adventure 5.13c
Peter Croft climbs Cosmic Debris
Peter Croft solos Fish Crack
Kurt Smith and Scott Cosgrove FA Cookie Monster 5.12a
Kurt Smith and Dave Hattchel FA General Dynamics 5.13a
Scott Burke and Jeff Folett FA Tour de Force 5.12b
Steve Schneider and Romain Vogler climb The Nose and West Face of El Cap in a day
Scott Cosgrove FA Machine Gun 5.13c
Hidetaka Suzuki FA Title Fight 5.13a
Hidetaka Suzuki FA Casablanca 5.13a
Stefan Glowacz attempts FFA of Salathé Wall
Walt Shipley and Dave Schultz FA Southern Belle 5.11 A0
Randy Leavitt and Rob Slater FA Scorched Earth VI 5.11 A5
Walt Shipley and Troy Johnson FA Native Sun A4+
John Barbella and Eric Brandt FA Heartland
1988
Ron Kauk FA Punchline 5.12b resulting ethics/style debate leads to Camp 4 fist fight between Mark Chapman and John Bachar
Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg FA of complete Sentinel Falls ice
Kurt Smith and Ken Ariza FA Keeper of the Flame 5.13a
Todd Skinner and Paul Piana FFA Salathé Wall
Dave Schultz and Scott Cosgrove FFA Southern Belle V 5.12b
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 02:43am PT
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potentially SuperTopoForum could be a place to review the important Yosemite accomplishments since 2002(?)
but how to actually mine the data?
anyone got any ideas?
probably the most straight forward would be to create a topic at the end of the year "Yosemite Highlights for xxxx" and have it out in the classic Forum style
but for now, I'm going to have to do some bit-diving to extract it... which is not all bad...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 01:44am PT
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Yos Big Wall Routes 1987 - 1999
1987
Luminescent Wall VI 5.10b A4 FA Walt Shipley, John Barbella
Native Son VI 5.9 A4 FA Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson
Scorched Earth VI 5.11 A4 FA Rob Slater, Randy Leavitt
The Big Chill VI 5.9 A4 FA Jim Bridwell, Peter Mayfield, Sean Plunkett...
Heartland VI 5.10 A4+ FA Eric Brand, John Barbella
1988
Turkey Shoot V 5.9 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Ken Yager
Octopussy VI 5.9 A3+ FA Dan and Sue McDevitt
Central Scrutinizer VI 5.11c A4+ FA Steve Grossman, Jay Ladin
White Room VI 5.10 A4 FA Walt Shipley, Sean Plunkett
Waterfall Wall VI 5.9 A4+ FA Rick Sylvester, Chauncey Parker
Via sin Liquor VI 5.9 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Alan Humphrey
Horni-Johnson VI 5.7 A3+ FA Jeff Hornibrook, Troy Johnson
Bad Seed VI 5.9 A4 FA Bill Russell, Troy Johnson
Love Without Anger V 5.8 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Rich Albuschkat
1989
Genesis VI 5.10 A4 FA Doug Englekirk, Eric Brand,
Dante's Inferno VI 5.9 A3 FA Eric Kohl
High Plains Dripper VI 5.11 A5 FA Eric Kohl, Alan Humphrey
Bananarama V 5.10a A3 FA Rich Albuschkat, Steve Bosque, Murray...
The Promised Land VI 5.10 A4 FA. Troy Johnson, Jeff Hornibrook, Kevin Fosburg...
The Jet Stream VI 5.9 A4 FA Sean Plunkett, Bill Russell
Flashback V 5.8 A3 FA Steve Bosque, Rich Albuschkat
Kali Yuga VI 5.10 A4 FA John Middendorf, Walt Shipley
Wheel of Torture VI 5.7 A4 FA Eric Kohl
Aqua Vulva VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl, John Middendorf
Toxic Waste Dump VI 5.8 A3+ FA Eric Kohl
Shadows VI A5 FA Jim Bridwell, Cito Kirkpatrick, Charlie Row, Billy...
Reach for the Sky VI 5.11 A4+ FA Jim Beyer
1990
Re-Animator VI 5.8 A3+ FA Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl
Shortest Straw VI 5.7 A4 FA Rick Lovelace
Surgeon General VI 5.9 A5 FA Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl
Ice Age VI 5.8 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Pressure Cooker VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl
Saddam Hussein VI 5.9 A4 FA Eric Brand, Stewart Irving
Hole World VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl
1991
Plastic Surgery Disaster VI 5.8 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Reckless Abandon VI 5.8 A4+ FA Eric Kohl
Crystal Cyclone VI 5.7 A4+ FA Eric Kohl
Winds of Change VI 5.10 A5 FA Richard Jensen
World of Pain VI 5.8 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Hole in the Sky VI 5.10b A3 FA Kevin Fosburg, Paul Turecki
Solar Power Arete VI 5.10a A3+ FA Kevin Fosburg, Paul Turecki
1992
Electric Ocean VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl
Get Whacked VI 5.10 A5 FA Eric Kohl
Escape from Freedom VI 5.11c A1 FA Urmas Franosch, Bruce Morris
Virginia VI 5.7 A3 FA Chuck Clance, Steve Bosque
The Prism VI 5.10 A3+ FA Urmas Franosch, Sean Plunkett
Jesus Built My Hotrod VI 5.7 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Eric Rasmussen
Southern Man V 5.8 A1 or C2+F FA Francis Ross, Rich Albushkat
Lost Again VI 5.10 A3+ FA Eric Kohl
1993
Seido VI 5.10 A4 FA October 1993. Seidou Urano
Flight of the Albatross VI 5.8 A3 FA May 1993. Jon Middendorf, Will Ox
Kaos VI 5.7 A4+ FA April 1993. Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston
Tempest VI 5.8 A4+ FA June 1993. Brad Jarrett, Jeff Hornibrook, Cade Lloyd
Express Checkout VI 5.8 A5 FA 1993. Eric Kohl
Ashes to Ashes V A4 FA August 1993. Eric Rasmussen, Chris Purnell
1994
Afroman VI 5.6 A3+ FA Jeff Hornibrook, Mark Carpenter
1995
When Hell Was in Session VI 5.9 A5 FA Eric Kohl, Pete Takeda
Reason Beyond Insanity VI 5.7 A3+ FA Sean Easton, Dave Sheldon
Reticent Wall VI 5.7 A5 FA Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Laurie...
1996
Ring of Fire VI 5.10 A5 FA Mark Smith, Richard Jensen
Hole in the Head VI 5.7 A3 FA Jeff Benowitz, Rick Carlton Studley III
Abstract Expressionist VI A5 FA Eric Kohl
1997
Blue Shift VI 5.11c A4 FA Jay Smith, Karl McConachie
Hurricane Jingus VI 5.9 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Bryan Law
Una Iglesia en el Cielo V 5.6 A4+ FA Chris McNamara, Chris Ewing
Cool Blood VI 5.8 A5 FA Gabor Berecz, Thomas Tlvadar
Sargantana VI 5.9 A4 FA Sylvia Vidal, Pep Mesip
...A Sad State of Affairs V 5.7 A3 FA Eric Rasmussen, Mike Zawaski
Continental Drift VI 5.10 A4 FA Steve Gerberding, Kevin Thaw, Conrad Anker...
1998
Disorderly Conduct VI 5.9 A5 FA Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke...
Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys VI 5.9 A5 FA Jim Bridwell, Tyson Hausdoerffer, Boulos Ayad...
Sky is Falling VI 5.10 A4 FA Eric Kohl, Bryan Law
Nightmare on California Street VI 5.8 A5 FA Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner
Ned's Excellent Adventure VI 5.10 A4+ FA Bryan Law, Warren Hollinger
Girdle Traverse VI 5.10a A4 FA Chris McNamara, Mark Melvin
El Nino VI 5.13c A0 FA Alex and Thomas Huber
Highway to Hell VI 5.9 A5 FA Gabor Berecz, Thomas Tivadar
1999
Life on the Dark Side V 5.7 A3x FA Ammon McNeely, Bryan Law
Every Man for Himself VI A4 FA Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Mark Bowling
Gulf Stream VI 5.9 A5 FA June Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith, John Harpole
Solitary Confinement VI FA Eric George
White Trash Vacation VI FA Eric George, Eric Coomer
Strange World VI 5.8 A4 FA Bryan Law, Eric George
Allied Forces VI 5.9 A3 FA Steve Gerberding, Al Swanson, Mark Bowling,..
Dark Star VI 5.10 A5 FA Jim Bridwell, Groaz Giavanni
????
Prowd VI A3 FA Bryan Law
The Vodka Putsch VI 5.10 A4 FA Bill Russell, Pete Takeda
Cataclysmic Megasheer V 5.11d A2 FA
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:13am PT
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70's climbed my first pitch ever - sunnyside bench jamcrack
80's led every pitch on astroman clean
90's did lap 500 on short circuit
2000's leading sunnyside bench jamcrack
That about sums it up, thanks.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 14, 2012 - 09:45am PT
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Ed,
1996
Jared Ogden and Rob Miller speed ascent of the RNWF (17h) Typo?
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Mar 15, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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1987:
I soloed The Shield. Shared a beer and a Camel cigg with Mr Middendorf and Co and hid from rangers, collecting tin cans for 5c each and generally acting like the perfect climbing bum. But I smelt real bad! (for around 3 months only though)
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 23, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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bup...
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 23, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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80's, 90's 00's are all dead now ya rope hanging cardboard carrot eatin slackers.
Ya all need to grab a shovel and start growing nice juicy carrots again before we all fall off the cliff of stupidity ..... :-)
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Nov 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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Billy Russel meeting the bad olive.
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Nov 23, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Spring 1982: the term, Shitters, becomes synonymous with YOSAR!!
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Nov 23, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Didn't Kim Carrigan (Australia) do something worthy. I forgot what.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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1970
Jim Bridwell and Mark Klemens FA of New Dimensions 5.10
1971
Barry Bates FA of Five and Dime 5.10d
Pat Ament and Van Freeman FA West Face of Rixon's Pinnacle 5.10c
Tom Higgins FA Void, 5.11c
Jim Bridwell and Charley Jones FA Butterfingers 5.11a
Mark Klemens FA Cream 5.11
Peter Haan FA Left Side of the Hour Glass 5.11a
1972
Barry Bates and Steve Wunsch FA New Dimensions 5.11
Steve Wunsch and Mark Chapman FFA La Esquela 5.11
Jim Bridwell first continuous ascent of Nabisco Wall
1973
Henry Barber leads Nabisco Wall, New Dimensions, Midterm, on sight solo of Ahab
Henry Barber solos the Steck/Salathe
Henry Barber leads Butterballs
Jim Donini and TM Herbert FA Basket Case 5.11
Jim Donini FA Overhanging Overpass 5.12
1975
Henry Barber, Ron Kauk and Steve Wunsch FA Hardd 5.11b
John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, John Long and Mike Graham FA of Free Blast 5.11b
Henry Barber FA of Fish Crack 5.12b
Ron Kauk and John Yablonsky FA Kauk-ulator 5.11c
Ron Kauk, John Bachar and John Long FFA of Astroman 5.11
Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay and John Long accomplish the Nose in a day
John Bachar and Ron Kauk FFA Hotline 5.12
1976
John Bachar solos New Dimensions
Ray Jardine FA Crimson Cringe 5.12a
John Bachar and Ron Kauk climb Crimson Cringe
Ron Kauk first continuous ascent of Astroman
Jim Erickson and Art Higbee FFA of the Regular North West Face of Half Dome 5.12b
Phil Gleason FA of Coffin Nail 5.11+
John Long FFA of Chouinard-Herbert 5.11+
1977
Ray Jardine and John Lakey FA of Separate Reality 5.12
John Lakey FFA of Owl Roof 5.12
Charlie Fowler solos Direct North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock
Ray Jardine and John Lakey FA of Phoenix 5.13
Ray Jardine frees the roof pitch on the Rostrum
Ron Kauk FA Tales of Power 5.12b
1978
Ron Kauk climbs Separate Reality
Ron Kauk climbs Midnight Lightning
Peter Croft, Tammy Knight and Larry Zulim FA Pigs in Space 5.12
1979
Ray Jardine and Bill Price FFA of West Face of El Capitan 5.11
Ray Jardine releases Friends for commercial distribution
Mark Hudon and Max Jones FFA Pegasus 5.11
Mark Hudon and Max Jones climb South Face of Mount Watkins with seven points of aid
Mark Hudon and Max Jones climb Salathe Wall eliminating much of the aid
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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1980
John Bachar solos Nabisco Wall: Waverly Wafer 5.10c, Butterballs 5.11c and Butterfingers 5.11a
Bill Price FA Cosmic Debris 5.13a
Tony Yaniro FA Alien 5.12c
Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, Scott Cole FA Hall of Mirrors 5.12c
1984
Ron Kauk climbs Thriller
Alan Lester and Pat Adams climb Salathe Wall in one and a half day freeing more pitches than previous ascents
1985
ohn Middendorf, Charles Coe and Rusty Reno FA of Autobahn, 5.11d
Kim Carrigan and Geoff Wigand FA of America's Cup, 5.12b
Kim Carrigan FFA linking the Rostrum, 5.12b
Todd Skinner FFA of Renegade (nee Stimga) 5.13b
Jerry Moffat and Ron Kauk FFA of Lost Arrow Spire, 5.12b
Peter Croft solos North Face of the Rostrum 5.11c
Peter Croft FFA of Crucifix 5.12b
1986
John Bachar FA of Dale's Pin Job 5.13a
John Bachar FA of Phantom 5.13a
Werner Braun and Scott Cosgrove FA of Power Point 5.11c
Peter Croft and Hans Florine speed ascent of The Nose 4 hr 22 min.
John Bachar and Peter Croft climb The Nose and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in a day
Yuji Hirayama redpoints Phoenix and Cosmic Debris, 5.13a
Wolfgang Gullich solos Separate Reality 5.12
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Dec 11, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Didn't John Long and Bob Gaines get the FFA of Lost Arrow Spire and Kauk/Moffat was the TV spectacular?
Thanks for compiling this awesome list, Ed.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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Winter of 1986 Ken Ariza beats Werner in a game of chess
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 11, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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1976 etc: MH plays chess with Werner, John B, wins a few games, probably loses more. No carrots were eaten.
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Feb 18, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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This is purely egocentric crap but did, as far as anyone knows, anyone solo The Shield before 1987? Just curious really....
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 18, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Jim Beyers soloed the Shield in 78 or 79.
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If
Big Wall climber
UK
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Feb 18, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Thanks Mark,
Steve
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