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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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We used to take some pretty big lobbers off this. No pads of course. Never did boulder it out. Good thing too, as the crux is the topout. It is a bolted sport climb now.
vid here: http://www.fishproducts.com/movies/saturn_russ22.mov
Here is a Mari pic of another failed attempt:
So, no pads is not that good, but how many are too many? And my spotter off to the left there, knows exactly where I am going to land. He is calm and ready if needed.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Looks like the sit-start is still up for grabs. You could then re-name it too!
This reminds me of the story behind Sherman's FA of "Run Spot, Run".
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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Vaginas? yeah that thing under your nose
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susan peplow
climber
GordonFest Paypal: devansbike@earthlink.net
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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Thank goodness you held those jewels during the drop!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:10am PT
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Hamie, that is "See Spot Run" - V6 at Hueco. Death landing, no redemption above 20 feet, where the crux is. I down-climbed that thing like 10 times.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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My knees started hurting after Wallings photos!
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:24am PT
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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Hamie, that is "See Spot Run" - V6 at Hueco. Death landing, no redemption above 20 feet, where the crux is. I down-climbed that thing like 10 times.
uhh... you sure? It *is* tall, but has a perfect flat landing and the crux is low. I think Kauk did it in a poncho and huaraches. Probably not even PG.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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I got no comment...but I could if ya need one. Seems like an obvious clusterf*#k!!!
I gotta start a new thread about puss-climbers. I am one in one regard, but I bare more testicular fortitude/ intelliegence than some idiots out there, hehehee....
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richross
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Did they put cushions on the metal coffin, Rich?
No, they moved the box (coffin) that holds the stokes litter to a different location.
From the traveling couch thread. Couch photoshop on my photo by Mike Bolte.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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poncho and huraches
WTF is that??? Que??
Que dices????
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Blue: Standard over the border fare from Juarez. Huaraches. (spelling fixed above)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Just so ya know, that sh#t is infected when it crosses ze border.
Look it it up, bra!!!
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jack splat
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 01:24am PT
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Did any of you notice that the boulder is 50 feet high and the problem is harder than anything you ever climbed bitd? Instead of spraying here, how about you go to the Buttermilks and push Alex over and have a hissy fit while you throw all his pads away from the base and show him how a real man climbs it it?? No worries cause you won't even make it far enough up to get hurt.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 11:16am PT
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jack splat
Jan 20, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
Did any of you notice that the boulder is 50 feet high and the problem is harder than anything you ever climbed bitd? Instead of spraying here, how about you go to the Buttermilks and push Alex over and have a hissy fit while you throw all his pads away from the base and show him how a real man climbs it it?? No worries cause you won't even make it far enough up to get hurt.
As Perry Mason used to say....... IRRELEVANT!
Side note edit: Who is digging pits? I think the 34 pads were used to fill in a "pit". Quite a bit different than digging a pit and putting a pad in the hole. That shizz is wacky!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Coz: But I think the OP, was just trying to start a light hearted thread and must have missed the contradiction.
Nope. How many is too many? Where does it end?
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Pffftttt a 50 foot boulder problem.
BITD when men where still men and the women still washed the dishes they used her towel for a pad.
The towel was used to wipe the dust off the rubber.
They also used humans for pads.
Dudes stood under the highballer.
When highballer fell off he crushed the human pads. Human Sacrifice!
Modern pussies need a mattress and no human sacrifice.
Except for coz.
Coz made sure there were dangerous rocks below him and falls into them knocking the sh!t out of him.
I thought he was dead too many times.
This was how real men toughened up to become hard ......
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Look, the general question is a good one, and I ask it all the time. On lots of problems of this angle, it is faintly ridiculous to claim that a half-dozen mattresses and a mosh pit of spotters make for a valid ascent, but a TR would be bogus.
This particular line, though, seems not the best example for making that case. The full length is well past the point at which mats would much help. from up high, i'd guess that his chance of even hitting that landing is not good. and the thin-ness means that there's probably a good chance of getting through the start, but only at the cost of blood.
i haven't seen this rig, but it looks to me like the mats provide a landing on the crux start where the moves are ultra-hard and thin and probably low-percentage. and then, if he splits a tip up above, it's a bit of insurance that let's him downclimb a move or two and then jump.
if he loses a tip on that hi-ball start, he's not going to solo out the remaining hard 5.13 with one flipper. nor is he going to downclimb the 8a opening moves.
i have some sympathy for randy's take, i.e., that matts for bouldering should be like crash mats in gymnastics-- good training instruments but not allowed for competition. this particular problem, though, appears not to have any landing at all unless padded out.
the good news is that now, all the internet hardmen can run up and solo it now w/o pads. then start a thread over at 8a.nu about how you should get bonus points for a padless ascent.
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jan 21, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Free Cushioning!
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