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Wank
Ice climber
Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Awesome @ Paul " Stewart Johnson " Teare . Love the Youtube thanks
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Gordon Hibberd
Ice climber
Ayrshire Scotland
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Jan 12, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Bye Pete, we had a whale of a time in Patagonia RIP old friend. Gordon Hibberd
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Harry Mammil
Trad climber
Llanrwst
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Jan 12, 2012 - 03:21am PT
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Hi,
I first met Pete in the early 1970s in Liverpool. He was a founding member of WAC - the Welsh Alpine Club that did great things in the Alps in those days. He was climbing with Al Rouse and doing early repeats of routes like Mammoth and first ascents like Positron on Gogarth. Totally inspirational stuff: wild, out there routes on a huge uncompromising sea cliff.
A really great guy too - friendly, considerate and very laid back. My deepest sympathy to his family and friends in the UK and US.
Yours
Mike Hammill
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Jennifer wild child.
Social climber
Spokane. WA.
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Jan 12, 2012 - 05:58am PT
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Ian sorry to see Peter go up to the great
Guides in heaven. He was a great guy!!!!!!
Much love light!!!
Jennifer Wire-Kimball
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jan 12, 2012 - 06:45am PT
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I was saddened to hear this news. My heart goes out to his family.
I had only met Pete once, in England, around 1970. I was hanging out with John Porter, and Dirty Alex, (Alex MacIntyre). Pete and Al Rouse showed up.
I had never met either of them. Rouse was all excited about these psychedelic mushrooms he had and wanted us to try them. We declined.
Wish I had known him better. RIP
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Zambesi
Mountain climber
Wales
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Jan 12, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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Cornwall
It was Minks’ idea to go soloing. He had just got back from the Alps where he had made the first British solo ascent of the Walker Spur, and he was full of it. Al Harris and I were happy pottering about on the Ding Dong Slabs and declined Pete’s invitation to follow a party of French climbers on Suicide Wall. Pete had met one of the French team in Chamonix, a very attractive female guide and he was out to impress. An hour or more later Al and I came round to the base of Suicide Wall to find Pete on the small ledge at the top of the second pitch, about two thirds way up this big imposing wall. There was no sign of the French.
“’Av a look in the guide book an tell me where it goes from ‘ere.” Pete shouts down.
Al finds the page and as his eyes are scanning the description a wide, wicked grin begins stretching from ear to ear. “What’s up?” say I.
Laughing out loud now, and unable to speak, he points to the text. The beautiful black comedy of the situation is infectious, I join his laughter and the more we look at Minks then at one another the more we laugh. Even the gulls seem affected and are screeching a primordial cacophony in this towering theatre of Cornish granite.
“What the f*#k’s up with you pair of prats?” yells Pete.
Our laughter abated and we decided to read out the text together.
“Stand on your second’s shoulder.” We both shouted and immediately fell about in helpless laughter once again.
Milking the situation for all its worth, Al teases Pete and suggests that we call out the Rescue Team. The parries in this strange pantomime continue for some time until Al and I rope up and climb up to the ledge that Pete has been standing on for some considerable time by now. He joins our rope and we finish the climb.
A strange kind of tension hangs over us as we walk away from the cliff; it is still there when we sit in the ‘Rajule’ pub enjoying a beer. Al is talking to Willie the landlord, at 83 the oldest one in Britain and a wonderful character. He worked, as a lad, in the copper mines that go far out under the sea and is telling Al all about the terrible conditions they toiled in whilst the Atlantic was audibly pounding overhead...
Al returns to the table with more pints and proclaims that Willie has told him how we can get into the mines, now derelict and very dangerous. Pete accepts his pint and says: “Harris you’re a tw#t!” The tension is still there – I look at Al, he is wearing that little boy lost face, Pete is not sure what face to wear, “I could have freed that move” he growls. Al smiles, Pete grins, we all laugh. ‘Normal insanity’ is resumed.
Down the mine we went.
Bombashanka.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jan 12, 2012 - 11:20am PT
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Thanks for that story. I had a wide smile on my face while reading that!
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Small Brown
climber
UK
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Jan 12, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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Here are some pics of Pete in his prime, sea level traversing at Gogarth, North Wales. The rest of the team are Claude Davis, Al Harris, Jim Curran, Henry Barber, Mo Anthoine, Nick Escourt and the owner of Wendy's Cafe in Llanberis. The pics were taken by Joe Brown (copyright).
Never forgotten! Cheers Minks xx
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Debbie
Social climber
Modesto, Ca
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Jan 12, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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I worked in Yosemite for 10 years. From 1976 till 1986. I knew Peter for many years. He was a great Friend!! I will miss Him!!
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levit8r
Trad climber
Dunedin, New Zealand
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Jan 12, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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Minksy, so sorry to hear you've left us. I tried several different avenues to get back in touch with you over the last year ( I must have preempted your departure somehow!), but alas to no avail!!
Life wouldn't be the same without the times I spent in your company: North Wales, London and Tahoe.
You were a hard bastard to understand at times, but who am I to speak. It was definitely easier to get you out for a beer than a climb! However I've a load of vivid, hilarious and fond memories, and you're definitely the Star Character in my favourite stories.
Anyway, here's my only photo of you, taken at Lovers Leap in 1987: Pete, the proud new Dad with Tim and the late Keith 'Troyd' Peall.
We actually went to "the Leap" a few times together and despite usually ending up at the bar or a party that you'd invariably sniffed out, we did manage to make it onto the rock once or twice. I'll never forget the time we climbed Traveller's Buttress with Egg. You and I seconding the final easy pitch together, deciding to untie and climb up just below the rope ends in order to see the look on Egg's face. Priceless!!
Well mate, thanks for your company, although its a long time ago I'll always treasure that, and there's still the odd one around who'll appreciate those tales I'm privileged to tell.
And I know you won't "go gently into that dark night"!
I'll miss you,
Calum Hudson.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 13, 2012 - 06:49am PT
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Damn....didn't know he was ill. Talked to him a few months ago. Climbed the Nose with Minks in early 70's and then on to Patagonia with him and four other Brits to Patagonia in 73- a really wild ride! Super talented and charismatic guy who didn't have the best lifestyle where longevity is concerned.
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pneame
Trad climber
Tampa, FL
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Jan 13, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
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That laugh on the boat video. Wow, that brings back really good memories.
Thanks.
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Pexhill
Social climber
North Wales
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Jan 13, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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I knew Pete from my days in Liverpool and working in Ellis Brigham's,
Brighams was the centre of the climbing earth in the 70's and inveriably Minksy, Rouse or Pancho (Mollyneux) would be lurkning in the store somewhere, we has some awsome parties and on one occasion there was a knock on the door at my house in Liverpool and there was Minksy, fully dressed as Laurence of Arabia complete with a huge sword hanging from his waistbelt, "party youth, it's fancy dress, grab a sheet you can come as my comrade"
We went climbing on the Wenallt one day and on the first belay of the route he was desperate for a fag but had no matches or lighter, "hang on youth, back in a jiff" he lowered himself to the ground accosted some stranger in a tent for a light and promptly soloed back up to the belay.
When I lived in Bigil (Al Harris's house)for a short while during the late 70's Minksy was a regular, on one occasion it was deemed that the first decent of Llanberis Pass on a skateboard would go down well, there were at least six of us and they included, Minksy, Joe Brown, Al Harris, myself and a couple of guys I can't remember, as we descended we gathered speed and were weaving all over the road, suddenly a Mercedes comes round the corner to be met with "The Wild Bunch" he screeched to a halt and wound down the window, "What the f*#k do you think your'e doing you bloody idiots, I'm a responsible driver and whats more i'm a rock climber too", Minksy almost peed his pants, the driver suddenly realised who we were, wound up the window and took off sharpish.
I seem to remember the flat stretch by The Faynol Arms was no good for skateboarding so we went to the pub and stayed there for the rest of the day.
I has some great times with Pete, some close scrapes and would not have missed any of it for the world.
He was always kind and also very generous and I will really miss that hearty laugh, RIP matey.
Ken.
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Jim Clipper
Social climber
forests to tree farms
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Jan 13, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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Quite the man. Please tell more. I wouldn't "hold" a candle ...
Old master?! Tea time bump.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Jan 13, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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Sunset Inn: Jan. 1977
Timing? Do not know could be just after Silver Strand ???
As for the other character in the picture: Cochran's dog "Quasmo"
For some reason couple of pictures are somewhere, Might have given Minks slide that followed both Quasmo and Minks smiling together. "Priceless" Rare for me to do but have done very few times.
Edit: lost 15% since took picture from scan then scan to PC. Will get others direct to CD. Sorry for grain and colour. 35mm colorchrome.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 13, 2012 - 09:29pm PT
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"ruff it up, stuff it up, balls and all!"
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jan 13, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
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Quasmos was another legend..RJ
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Frenchfree
Trad climber
Salt Lake Utah
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Jan 14, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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So sorry to hear of Minksy passing. Sounds as if at least it wasn't a lingering end. I ran into him 3 years ago in Tahoe. Was there with my girlfriend at Lovers Leap. Cooked him a Thai curry. He'd mellowed a lot since the 70's (who hasn't).
Most locals know more about his US rock climbs than his Euro alpine exploits (excepting the Eiger).
Maybe I could add a bit. Out of the 200 Brits camping on Snell's field in Chamonix, he was one of the tops. Cautious but strong. He climbed the American Direct on the west face of the Dru with Al Rouse. Although Rouse was eventually a better and stronger rock climber(only by a bit) when they got to the big off width crack(no cams back then) Rouse gave it to Minksy who led it in Mountain boots.
One night in the Alpenstock bar in Chamonix a couple of Brits got beat up by the bar staff for stealing a handful of candies. Next night we went back!! With a french coin in a light socket I fused the lights(we normally used that trick to grab bottles off the bar) upped the tension with the bar staff. The french manager strutting around with a horse crop tried to take Minksy's beer. Beer in his face and the place erupted. Chairs demolished the place. We all ran into the woods for the night fearing police action. Only Minksy braved it out in the campsite. We were all pretty bad lads back then. Most anything went.
I was on Black Spring, a rock route in the Llanberris Pass, my brother leading the second pitch when Minksy showed up and set off to solo it. he got to the crux overhang and started to wobble. I was freaked out(which is what he wanted) and was trying to point out the hidden crux hold, as well as swing our loops of rope his way for him to grab. He burst out laughing in that deep Merseyside laugh he had and easily soloed passed us.
Another time him and Rouse soloed "Vector" together chatting all the way(pretty bold in old EB's.)
Maybe someone else could fill in those details. Watching him on rock he had really good footwork.
Next tale is a little raunchy but what the hell. Buxton climbing conference in the 70's. Rouse had a room which meant so did everyone else. Late at night British mountaineering official sees water flowing down hotel stairs into the lobby. Runs upstairs flings open bathroom door in one of the rooms. Bathtub overflowing. Minks, unidentified maiden and Henry Barber in bathtub(hence the overflow) Official cries "is there a burst pipe". Minksy calmly answers "don't worry youth, I'm a plumber"
His sons must know they had a great dad who was respected not only for his climbing but also his humanity. Go slowly old pal.
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