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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:29am PT
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That's right! My first day on ice! - at June Lake roadside ice falls. Almost killed myself that day.
RIP shawn
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa Mexico
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Mar 15, 2006 - 07:20am PT
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The buffalo chip is still there just look to the other side of the road.
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Leroy
climber
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Mar 15, 2006 - 07:33am PT
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I thought Mike Paul did the first of the Lie Detector.Anyways,I remember doing an early ascent with awell known local,who said ,I believe what I see and I saw u do it and I know I did it.Dont think Barber ever said he did it.Although he did make a good effort Barefoot.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:10am PT
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A study in contrasts...
The best rock and the worst:
On the left, we have the first pitch of Flying Circus at Tahquitz. Probably taken on the second weekend of work, since there is already a fixed line and clipped jumars waiting to go up to the second bolt above the hard aid. Note the use of dual 9mm ropes--that trick we picked up from the Brits to reduce friction on indirect leads. Aug, 1978.
And, on the right, we have compelling evidence why so few Stonemasters have converted to Islam and moved to Saudi Arabia! The horrible Jurassic limestone/mud on the Escarpment on the outskirts of Riyadh. 25 miles of this junk! And I don't think I ever saw a single hunk of granite in the whole fricking Kingdom! Hooked up there with a British Expat (another desperate and frustrated climber) to go looking for lines. Both of us are in the picture, and the belay ledge I'm standing on fell off from beneath my second, once I got to the summit. A first (and last) ascent. 1980.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:47am PT
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“Thats a cool Largo Shot.
I think its just a warm up boulder HighBall thing.”
May have been a warm a up but after that they warmed up on this one.
Here’s Bachar making a quick move left…and yes he did reach it.
John has always been the boot designer, this was when he was freelancing for NIKE® one of the early uses of bold colors and coordinating as well.
Regarding the Buffalo Chip, what they do, move it? People camp out in trees to save them, anyone ever do that on a bolder out of curiosity?
Barefoot Barber…never could quite get that. As it was pointed earlier those guys in Dresden only did it be cause they had to. That’s like entering a car race on foot,
Robs, Crazy shot in Arabia! Double ropes is the only way to climb for me. A lot of benefits when the pro isn’t the best too.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 15, 2006 - 12:04pm PT
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Nick Badyrka and I witnessed Hot Henry leading several Eldorado testpeices shoeless during 1978 Colorado trip.
With such inspiration we brought the technique home to Idyllwild and did shoeless ascents of routes like Hot Buttered Rump and a few others I cannot remember.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 15, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
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Hey, MG-
That shot of JB with the striped rugby shirt is on the Left Eliminator, which is somewhat of a highball problem when you did it sans cord. Bachar had been there a year before I visited with Richard Harrison, and JB gave us the tour--the Mental Block, Eliminators, all the classic Gill stuff. We never used a rope--never even thought about it--on any of that stuff. This added a certain flair to doing those problems. Later I returned with Dan Michaels and when he busted out the rope we thought he was kidding.
Remember how JB used to do all those laps on the Torture Chamber? That guy's pain threshold was incredible. Down in that area was Borgman's Bulge, which was harder for me than the Eliminators and the stuff on the Mental Block because I weighted so fricking much and that high left hold on Borgman's was so tiny. Took me like 10 tries to get that thing.
That was a blast -- 30 years ago!
JL
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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I used to go to the Buffalo Chip at lunch from Corona Del Mar High School (class of '75). One time I was over there by myself and pitched off the top of the bulge problem (broken hold, of course). It was a bad landing and I lay there with the wind knocked out of me and literally seeing stars. Took at least 15 minutes just to get off the ground, ouch.
I think it's still there, you could see it from the road as of a few years ago. I'll drive by soon and eyeball it.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:24pm PT
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Dave,
Might you recall carrying me down from Suicide at the end of our winter hitchhiking "vacation" in Illywild? Nex time you run away from home, take a car.
The football knob kinda hurt the first time.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:32pm PT
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Dave, Bring a camera with you
JL - I think they call it bouldering because you do it without a rope?... Were we wrong?
Although when you do stuff like solo Insomia,(yikes)you don't call it bouldering.
Am I confusing anyone else besides me?
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa Mexico
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Mar 15, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Yes the buffalo chip is still there! over grown and coverd with spider webs. If you don't want to drive out there ? just look at a map? they built bonita canyon dr. north of it, before it was off ford rd.
when they built the park they pushed 5 feet of dirt at it's base so it's not so groovy. Randy go check it out?
little has changed Dave
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Mar 15, 2006 - 02:03pm PT
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Yes Spencer, I do remember! I "ran away" after some big fight with my mom and we hitched to Humber. You took a nasty fall on Valhalla and sprained your ankle. Luckily Roy Naaz (Derek Starr) was there and helped me carry you down (mostly on his back). Didn't we get a ride part way back with the lovely Debbie Winter from LA? Then your mom came out, picked us up and drove us home from a hospital(?). She commented on a film a friend of yours had made called...."Mediocrity" as we passed the endless housing tracts in Anaheim that are even more endless now.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 15, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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The Chip Lives!?
I'll have to check it out. But filling in the bottom 5 feet would change it considerably.
Perhaps i will take the digital camera (chalk bag and shoes) and post a shot if this is true.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 15, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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Dude, you've GOT to go get a pic of the Buf Chip. That's as classic of a junker as we've ever climbed upon. Must see to believe.
JL
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 15, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
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When I hear them calling that somebody's falling
I'm always the first to react
I shout to the man "Just hang on if you can
While I get my camera unpacked".
You've seen the wild hare in the gulleys
His antics are wholly absurd
Compared to the sight and the poetry in flight
Of man taking wing like a bird.
--The Manchester Delinquent's Song, Tom Patey
Now, guys... Some of you are waxing rhapsodical about something that was The One True Hunk™! Graham and I went there and probably did the firsts on that left-side arete. 'Twas such a farce, that I only went back there maybe once more. And, by that time, Mike had ripped-off the key chunk on the face so that was deemed a gonner. Never went back, for very good reason. "...maybe 35-40 high..." is just a bit of an exaggeration don't ya think? Buffalo Chip, indeed.
Somebody go get us a picture, pronto. That way, the rest of us won't need to bother to do the inspection ourselves. (Me? I'm waxing lackadaisical!)
(Those in favor of electing Randy to do it, say "aye". Nay? The ayes have it... So moved.)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 15, 2006 - 11:18pm PT
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Oh, this is just great...
Now not only am I waiting on Gramicci to cough up Exhibit "R" but I'm also waiting on Randy to produce a photo of the Buffalo Chip. Double the fun...
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mar 16, 2006 - 10:32am PT
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I refuse to believe what I am reading above. Pirate’s Cove allegedly “closed” by the authorities? Preposterous. The “city ordinance” which gave City Ordinance Crack its name belatedly enforced to prevent climbing at the beach? Absurd. The Buffalo Chip, first described in the rare and collectible first edition of the Hunk Guide to Orange County, buried or blasted? Not likely.
Not with Randy Vogel living a few miles down the road! I know Randy Vogel. Randy Vogel is a friend of mine. No one has done more than Randy to keep climbing areas open, as one of the founders of the Access Fund and veteran of numerous brawls with authorities over climbing rights. Randy is a champion street fighter for climbing access and would not let some petty bureaucrat proclaim that one of Randy’s backyard climbing spots is now off limits for climbers, no matter how insignificant or squalid the area. The Randy I know would have rallied the local climbers to the barricades before the next city council meeting, had the authorities really attempted such a foolish thing.
On second thought maybe the Buffalo Chip is not worth the effort, but certainly Pirate’s Cove is, just for the principle if nothing else!
Randy, say it ain’t so?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
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But Ricky, you didn't tell us about "Big Ricky???" Surely one of your very own beach classics.
JL
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
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But Ricky, you didn't tell us about "Big Ricky???" Surely one of your very own beach classics.
JL
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Mar 16, 2006 - 12:31pm PT
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This is my interpretation of the law here.
Clearly the ordinance makes NO mention of climbing. Although it does state no jumping. So I would venture to say if you fell off you could be in violation of the City Ordinance no. 725 and hence the law. They would have to prove intent to jump though. You would have a good argument that the crack was too greasy or your chalk bag was closed or your butt was hanging out too far. I would ask to judged by a jury of my peers. That way I would win for sure
The flood water pants were standard issue when the tide was coming in at CDM.
Oh, this is just great...
Now not only am I waiting on Gramicci to cough up Exhibit "R" but I'm also waiting on Randy to produce a photo of the Buffalo Chip. Double the fun..
henny, With all the recent Beta on how to find the buffalo chip I’d have better luck with that photo.
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