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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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People new to placing cams may not realize that you have to "set" them with several good yanks.
Spider, yeah, I've mentioned that to several folks, and I still get looks. I've been climbing quite a while too. The superficial layer of crystal on granite or softer stone is where I think it helps. Prevents skating and allows the cams to engage and do their biz.
nora daddy, ... yes on the aiding!
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Any updates on the climber? I'm sorry to hear about it.
Spider, yeah, I've mentioned that to several folks, and I still get looks. I've been climbing quite a while too. The superficial layer of crystal on granite or softer stone is where I think it helps. Prevents skating and allows the cams to engage and do their biz.
I was startled when I saw the original comment, and assumed it would be quickly debunked. Now I'm doubting myself. Experienced climbers set their cams? Really??
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Al Fylak
Mountain climber
Rochester Hills, MI
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I learned to climb at JTree 30 years ago and have always felt that the protection possibilities were more than adequate. I think the situation in general is that climbers today are not doing as much Trad as back then. Trad pro takes alot of practice, at any climbing area, and JTree is as good as any. We don't know the experience level of the wounded climbers, but I would guess, from the little that I have read, they are somewhat new to trad climbing. To make thinks worse, they were attempting a nebulous climb on the NE side of Cyclops that does not see much traffic. Less visited climbs tend to be loose and ignored for a reason. The newer "best of" guide books don't even mention Foul Fowl. I don't claim to be an expert on JTree quality, but I suspect that this is NOT one of the better 5.6's in the area. The 1992 Vogel guide gives it no stars. I feel empathy for the injured climbers and wish them a fast recover. I don't mean to sound harsh with my opening comments. Best of luck guys!
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doug redosh
Trad climber
golden, CO
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Elvis Leg,
Read almost any edition of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, available from the American Alpine Club. There are many accounts in there of zippering pro. It doesn't happen often, but that is why trad climbing is inherently more dangerous than sport climbing.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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falling on your head is a bitch.
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BillL
Trad climber
NM
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Can yanking on a cam turn a bad placement into a good one?
Yanking on 'em won't help the geometry. At the same time, might improve the grip at metal-to-rock. I don't yank on 'em every time but often will if in doubt about that interface.
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Al Fylak
Mountain climber
Rochester Hills, MI
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Any news on the recovery?
I keep thinking about this accident.
Hope everyone in getting better.
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KeIn
climber
Japan
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Hello All,
My husband is a friend of his and when I was looking for this accident, I happened to find that many people concerned about him through this site.
About this climber, Yosuke.
He still remains unconcious but came back to hospital in Yokohama, Japan.
He's fighting it off everyday.
Wish him luck and pray for him, everyone...
Happy Christmas.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:58pm PT
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Thanks for the update KeIn.
Continued well wishes to you all. Get well soon!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Dec 23, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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thanks for posting, keln. my wife mariko is from japan and when she used to climb with me, the eye was a favorite of hers. it was originally rated 5.3, then downgraded to 5.1 in vogel's 1992 book, and recently rated 5.5 PG in bob gaines's authoritative best climbs. i guided a party there this past summer on a rainy day, hoping for some shelter. i led up to the crux chimney and i really, really didn't like the way my shoes felt on the wet rock, so i backed off the damn lead, went around back and set a toprope on it. trouble can lurk in the "easiest" places.
thanks for posting on here. please keep us informed about yosuke-san. we're all pulling for him.
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