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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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The proudest of bumps...
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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this thread was an awesome find!
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Oak Land, California
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I love it when folks post these old scans. I have a folder full of them on my computer. Thanks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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You're welcome!
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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These photos are of my first El Cap route (4 1/2 days) in 1978...My favorite wall experience ever.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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A couple from the vault...My partner Jay Ladin took both shots.
The classic pitch off of El Cap Spire.
The original Headwall belay.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 10, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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Climbing the Salathe Wall was a coming of age event for me back when Yosemite Valley was Camalot.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
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There is a legal limit to the snow here...but as for July and August Camanot!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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"I led from there to the top of El Cap Tower."
Not unless you flew over there you didn't.
You must mean the eponymous spire.
I'm just picking your nose.
MFM
For the record, we took 6 days. I'm in awe of your speed. But we were on vacation. Why bother blitzing it if all we wanted was to get AWAY from the old lady?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
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What a fantastic examination that was!
Long overdue bump for the standard setting classic!
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 24, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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Bump, trying to kick the politerds to the curb
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Feb 24, 2016 - 11:01am PT
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Thanks for the bump and the old articles. Good to read golsen's story.
First got on the Salathe in '93 with Steve Lowry. We were bivied in the alcove when a BIG rain storm came in, 4 or 5 inches measured in the valley. Steve was set up in the back of the alcove with haul bag and bivy sack under a double portaledge rain fly. He fared reasonably well and could sit up in there. I on the other hand was in just a bivy sack on a little ledge up against el cap spire. Very windy and wet all night. Plus Steve was smoking all the cigs and weed we had brought for the route, and I could do nothing but lay there and smell the odors, cursing him but thinking I would be doing the same if I could.
The next day was heli rescue day on the wall. I think we were the only ones on that side, other than a Salathe team above us, who did not get pulled off that day. We sat and watched the whole thing, tried to dry out, and then rapped off the following day. Interesting to reverse the hollow flake. Went back in '96 and finished it, no one else on the climb. Lots of interesting climbing on that one.
The thought of taking a whipper on the great roof is somewhat terrifying.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Feb 24, 2016 - 11:08am PT
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BUMP - Worthy of more than 15 seconds of fame, no?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2016 - 12:18pm PT
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A perfect route done in great and admirable style...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Dec 17, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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The "A short but severe overhang..." photo looks like the EZ lieback finish to the Boulder Problem pitch. The pin scars are solid finger pockets.
Pix of people aiding up that rig are so ancient. Skinner + Piana freed that thing almost 30 years ago - about 27 years after it was put up.
This feels the same to me as looking at pix of people on the Matterhorn with hobnails in the 30's.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 17, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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Mark
You and Max freed all but maybe 300 feet back in when 79 or 80?
Is that right?
And you didn't work it that much?
I would like to hear your comments
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Dec 17, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
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Thanks Clint I have the article.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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Royal Memorial Bump...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!