Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
John Morton
climber
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
|
This couple is in the process:
http://smileysproject.com
And documenting along the way.
I don't much care for media climbs, but I find this project fascinating because of one factor: the Hummingbird. The Smileys have lots of photos, video, a checklist, Facebook updates, etc. - but nary a mention of the Hummingbird.
What the climber wants to know is, what's their take on that route? In the climbing world a repeat of the Hbird alone would trump the rest of the routes combined. I can't imagine they're too optimistic about doing the list (Steck and Roper call it the 50 cc's) with the big one still looming ahead of them. Is this some strategy related to the dramatic arc of a story line, culminating on Mt. Logan?
John
|
|
Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
|
12 for me.
Damn, zero in the Northwest and I live there.
Alaska and the Yukon
5.Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
Western Canada
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
|
|
yedi
Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
|
I finished 5 of them.
Salathe Wall, El Cap
Reg. route on Half Dome
Liberty crack, Liberty Bell
Liberty Ridge, Mt Rainer
Complete N. ridge of Stuart
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
|
I've got ten of the twelve in California. ...haven't done the Nose or (damn it) Clyde's, though I've been thwarted twice.
|
|
Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
|
15 total.
I haven't thought about it in a while. I lent my book to a friend in the 80's and never got
it back. I agree that a new fifty or one hundred is a good idea, who's up for it?
1. Moose's Tooth (west ridge to west summit)
2. Bugaboo Spire East Ridge
3.Castleton Tower K.I.
4. Royal Arches
5. Lost Arrow x2 (1-from the rim 1- w/ direct)
6. Steck Salathe x2
7. Middle Cathedral East Butt x3 (once linked w/ Fairview Dome)
8. Half Dome NW Face x2 (both one day ascents)
9. Nose x3 ( 1 winter and 1 one day ascent)
10. Salathe Wall x2 ( 1-one day ascent)
11. Whitney East Face (car-to-car)
12. Fairview Dome x10?
13. Clyde Minaret (car-to-car)
14. Traveler's x 2
Also broke my leg on the Titan.
Who's done the most in a day?
In a year?
S.F.
|
|
Scraptee
Trad climber
Tacoma
|
|
I hit 22 last summer. One of my earliest best climbing partners was fixated on doing them all as soon as the book came out. There was no telling him that Hummingbird hadn’t been repeated or we couldn’t afford it. I was an itinerant ironworker in the mid 70s and was fortunate to get paid very well to stay in shape and worked on mines and power plants throughout the west. Guidebooks weren’t as plentiful and resources were limited to word of mouth from climbing shops so the 50 Classics was the first thing I packed when I headed out. At 60 I figure I’ve got another few left to tick off.
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20.Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2
22.Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2
23.Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4
24.Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttre
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat, I agree, one has to make own list of goals. But this list is a nice list of possible quality routes. At times I come across climbs I fall in love randomly, but sometimes mentioned climbs end up being very nice.
I have done 4 so far.
Liberty Ridge 2011
Travelers Buttress 2011
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral 2011 (just a few days ago)
Fairview Dome 2011
Planning to attempt couple of more maybe this year...
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
I have 10. All in California!
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
Has anyone else here broken 30? The most I've heard of is around 46 - some well known Canadian ice climber type I forget the name of.
Western Canada
9.Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2
10.Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7
11.South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
15.Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6
The Pacific Northwest
19.Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
Wyoming
25.Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7
26.Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7
27.Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6
29.Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3
30.Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8
31.Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5
Colorado
32.Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7
33.Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7
34.Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7
35.Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.11
The Southwest
36.Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
37.Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9
38.Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3
California
39. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
40.Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
41.Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3
42.Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
43.Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
44.El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3
45.El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3
46.Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4
47.Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9
48.Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8
49.Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7
50.Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9
|
|
Mike_V
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara, CA
|
|
What the climber wants to know is, what's their take on that route? In the climbing world a repeat of the Hbird alone would trump the rest of the routes combined. I can't imagine they're too optimistic about doing the list (Steck and Roper call it the 50 cc's) with the big one still looming ahead of them. Is this some strategy related to the dramatic arc of a story line, culminating on Mt. Logan?
Having skimmed their accounts of some of their experiences on long climbs, it seems to me that marital crisis is a more likely outcome than a successful Hummingbird ascent together.
|
|
BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
|
|
Up to three:
Ellingwood Arrete
Charlotte Dome
Royal Arches
yay.
|
|
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
Looks like 11 for me so far. List below with modern or IMHO ratings:
The Pacific Northwest
1. Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge (III-IV, AI2)
Wyoming
2. Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route (II, 5.6-5.7)
The Southwest
3. Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route (III, 5.9)
California
4. The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route (III, 5.7, C0)
5. Lost Arrow Spire Tip (II-III, 5.7, C2)
6. Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress (IV, 5.9, C0)
7. Mount Whitney, East Face (II-III, 5.6-5.7)
8. Fairview Dome, North Face (III, 5.9)
9. Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face (IV, 5.9 Direct Var.)
10. Charlotte Dome, South Face (III, 5.8)
11. Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress (II, 5.9, 4P)
Of course I've done plenty of far better climbs along the way than some of these! e.g. Ancient Art, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock, Mithral Dihedral on Mt Russell, etc.
As far as a more modern & expanded list that is a good alternative to the "50 Classics" (e.g. left off Hummingbird Ridge, swapped Kain Face for Wishbone Arete on Robson, etc.), how about the North America Classic Climbs list?
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
North America Classic Climbs
Was kind of surprised to see Mendel Couloir on this list. Although I think it totally deserves to be there, was one of my favorite climbs this year. True alpine climb. SE Face of Clyde minaret is a big step up from Charlotte dome too. Rock route was one of the hardest 'walk offs' I have ever done.
10/50 for me.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Almost forgot to include this photo...these guys got a few.
They have a web site where they document their quest.
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
|
|
Vitaliy,
Yeah. I saw that web sight and contacted them a year or two back. They were very appreciative of my support. They also seemed down to earth and good people to boot. I hope they succeed!
|
|
Les
Trad climber
Bahston
|
|
Ya know, funny thing about the pejorative "50 Crowded Classics" moniker -- of the few that I've done (Direct South Buttress, Direct Exum, Charlotte Dome, Wolf's Head) or attempted (Pingora, North Ridge of the Grand), I saw either no other parties (DSB, Direct Exum, North Ridge of the Grand), or just one other party (Charlotte Dome, Wolf's Head, Pingora). Not exactly what I would consider crowded. Of course, YMMV.
|
|
Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
|
|
I did 23 of them. It was the thing to do, back in the day. Unless I get guided up the rest, or carried in someone's pack, that's where it will stay.
|
|
hb81
climber
|
|
Almost forgot to include this photo...these guys got a few.
They have a web site where they document their quest.
Sick project. Judging from reading some route descriptions, Hummingbird Ridge seems to be the grand prize of the list (or the show stopper...).
|
|
Pcutler
climber
Iowa
|
|
I've done enough to realize that some of them are classic and some are not. For example...devils tower is one of my favorite areas, but durance route is one of the worst at the tower. How does that trump Mccartheys or El Mat or any of the others out there?
Personal preference I guess. Still fun to talk about though, and the book kicks ass.
|
|
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
Yeah, the Durrance route was fun enough (climbing behind that detached leaning column was interesting), but I found El Cracko Diablo and Soler to be better climbs, and I can't wait to go back and try El Matador!
I read that the Wishbone Arete on Robson, which is listed as a 50 CC, is considered by locals to be a crap route on Robson and that for the locals, the true classic lines on that mountain are the Kain Face, North Face, and Emperor Ridge (which is why 2 of these 3 are listed instead of Wishbone in the NACC list). Perhaps Wishbone made the 50 CC list due to its status as the FA route on such a major peak? I imagine the same could be said for a number of the routes listed as 50 Classics . . .
And that book is fun to read, just for the history! I also especially like Ways to the Sky which has less of an explicit list, but has basic route information woven into a roughly linear coverage of the development of alpinism in North America. It even includes a nice account of the first winter ascent of the NE Ridge of Mt Williamson by Warren Harding. Beware the white rabbit!
On a related question, I wonder how many people have completed the original 100 Classic Climbs of the High Sierra by Moynier & Fiddler? Or how many of these climbs Taco-sters have done. The N Face of Morrison and the route on Angel Wings have got to be show stoppers for a lot of people :-)
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!