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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 27, 2006 - 01:41am PT
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Yeah Babee!
'Look how snuggy cozy!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 27, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
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DW- Hard climbs in EBs was truly a wonder. I really liked the price back then also - $40 bucks. I have one new prestine pair that has never been on rock, some day . . . (although that would drop it's value on the Antique Road Show).
Stonemasters-
Mt. Rubidoux has been undergoing renovation the last few years regarding historical markers, cribbing, bridge work etc. it is looking a lot better. The large chains are also fixed nice at the top parking lot and a lot of the rock walls.
Qs: Did the Stonemasters on Rubidoux ever participate in slack chaining at the top parking lot?
A normal size slack chain is easy to walk back and forth on and I can do that no problem, I have one in my backyard permanently set-up, and it has provided end-less entertainment for parties. A slack-line is harder, but the slack chain at the top of Rubidoux is a real challenge with spectacular fall potential on one side. What makes it so hard is the mass, the inertia of the chain. When you want it to move side to side to get your balance, it doesn't want to move. Damn hard if you ask me. I've only managed to walk a short section a few times without falling. So were you guys into slack chaining in the early '70s at Rubidoux? And if so, this may have pre-dated slack-lining at Camp 4.
Rob Muir- Since you have a very distant relationship to John Muir, I know that he signed in and stayed at the Mission Inn around the turn of the Century or so. And the large Sierra Alpine painting hanging in the Mission Inn is done by a close friend of his (the artist's name escapes me). Do you know if he ever went up Mt. Rubidoux? Perhaps he was the first true Mt. Rubidoux stonemaster? Maybe he cranked off a few boulder problems? You never know.
You might have to include JM as an possible honorary member of the Stonemasters. It would be fitting. Lord knows he did a lot of wild crazy things that would give many of us hesitation and the heebeegeebees today. And he was also into herbs!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 27, 2006 - 01:09pm PT
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Rubidoux brings back memories of watching older experienced stronger climbers just power down problem after problem as I would finagle my TR set ups.
The Triangles, Borson's Block, the bridge, beehive wall (I hated that little bench under beehive wall) heel bruising fer sure.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Feb 27, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
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Tar, I wanted to comment that the shot of Mari is really good, what a great person and on such a great section of rock too.
Eb’s were great shoes. I traded a car I had in Briton for two pair just before I left.
This photo is my tribute to EB’s today. A still life taken in France showing the days required gear. The boots, silk scarf, light rack of nuts, 9MM, and the ice ax for who knows what?
You guys are skeptics on the no hands ascent of surprise? My slides are a mess so I am still looking. But I have no fear of failure because I saw it recently. Anyway it’s just a distance shot and I thought the other was better.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 27, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
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Klimmer said, "EBs...$40 bucks...it's [sic] value on the Antique Road Show..."
But to get the highest valuation, it would be best to have the original packaging. ...got the white plastic bag with the cotton drawstring, that those boots came in? Plus, make sure you collect some provenance.
Did anyone notice the sweat "leaking" through the stitching on the left boot of the left-most climber in the (Off White) photo above? Remember the rubberized canvas of which EBs were made? Phew! With or without socks, it didn't matter.
Klimmer also said, "Mt. Rubidoux has been undergoing renovation...large chains are also fixed nice...were you guys into slack chaining in the early '70s at Rubidoux?"
Well, yeah... A few of us noticed, recently, that the candlesticks have been replaced. (And, they've now been "graced" with some plastic flowers.)
The slack chains were frequently walked Back in the Day. But, even more on the "circuit" though was the steel pipe used as a car-retainer that runs from the Bat Crack boulder, due South. Walking back-and-forth on that was a regular warmup. Usually done in EBs (or PAs), one of the usual tricks was a one-footed 180° or, better, a 360° piroette. Much more inertia than the chain! :o) And verra slippery!
I KNOW that I was walking a slack wire as early as 1972. Graham and I discovered that we could buy plastic-coated 1/4" rigging wire down at the nautical supply shops in Newport Beach, and I had one strung at my house on Balboa Island. (...still have one strung, at my current digs.) I think the slack wire/chain thing hit the Valley that Spring, maybe?
Was also remarked, "Perhaps [John Muir] was the first true Mt. Rubidoux stonemaster? Maybe he cranked off a few boulder problems?
If so, at the Turn of the Century (the one before last), he would have been sixty-two. And we know that no one can boulder after the age of 45! (Right, guys?) Besides, most knowledgable historians agree that he probably didn't do Valhalla...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 27, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
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Skeptical, Gramicci? Not a chance. I'm long past being skeptical of anything that happened back then. Besides, none of us would ever consider "stretching" the truth, or perhaps spinning the tale a little...
Would we?
No, I can believe it, but I still wanna see it. Maybe it will help me decide just how many arms Ricky really did have.
I agree, great picture of Mari.
Tarbuster: Man, those EBs were painful outside-in, or inside-out, depending on your view. I think KP has a great photo from way back of exactly that at the base of Autopilot. Although unlike the highly organized Gramicci, we have no chance of KP ever finding said picture - much less remembering that he even took it. Too bad.
Speaking of Autopilot - There were more people than just Ricky and John trying to do the initial send. KP, TP, Bobby, and myself were all also trying to do the problem at the same time. We knew there were others working it, so it was pretty motivating. We did it about a week after them. Knew someone had snaked it because the chalk topped out. It was certainly a bit more of a proposition back then. No ropes, no pads, and even worse, if you managed to survive bouncing and ultimately ending up on the road you had to worry about some schmuck running over you in a car.
And the time a crew of us were at the Beach boulder, which is right on the road. Somebody was in the middle of thin moves up high and some knucklehead in a car stops immediately under them to gawk. Fortunately, Largo moved them along. "Hohoho Man, Keep driving... You want somebody coming through the roof of your car?" They drove. Never did figure out if it was because they listened to him, or because they were afraid he would pinch their head if they didn't.
Anybody remember driving up the down road at Rubidoux? For some reason they used to leave the down gate unlocked all the time. So, if the up gate was locked one simply drove up the down. Good fun. About halfway up you could switch back to the up road. Unless the halfway gate was locked. Then you did the entire down road, all the time hoping some idiot like yourself wasn't on his way down. And it was dicy, totally blind corners. And per Robs earlier comments, people got off on driving the road as fast as they could.
After the age of 45, Robs? Careful. Fortunately there are some out there older than me. Shall I name some names?
Yeah, the candlestick(less) seems to have rejuvinated new sticks. Oh well, doesn't really matter Robs, I still absolutely loath those problems.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 27, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
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In case people are wondering, KP really does have a closet full of brand new pairs of EBs. Still. Wrapped in plastic and all. Seems that when EBs started getting molded they were useless. So KP hunted down 20, maybe 25 pairs of old style EBs and bought them all. Wasn't going to share them either. Then, a few weeks later Fire's hit the scene. KP instantly had a closet full of antiques. And he still has 'em. Hey, KP, got any other "skeletons in the closet"? Serves him right.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 27, 2006 - 04:07pm PT
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TC and crew...
That photo up-thread of Rick The Artist is priceless. He was the only dude out there--in August no less--lurking around without shades. He claimed that they distorted his sense of color! The last time I saw him out there was just after Jerry Garcia died, and he was still too shaken to listen to the Dead. Instead he kept a steady stream of Roky Erikson (13 Floor Elevators) rolling instead.
Other great memories of Rubidoux:
* Watching Largo do the Quarter Pebble Arete one handed, then come down to sign autographs for dudes with REI-fresh copies of his book.
* Seeing Kevin Powel do the KP Arete in the lower lot...in Sportiva approach shoes.
* Having tips so blown that you couldn't undo your laces, let alone open the 100+ degree car door handle. Then it was down the hill to the "Theater of the Absurd" Del Taco. Cars would pull into the drive-thru, but never leave.
Anyhow, below is another great Largo story from an ealier thread, last year, all about the "El Cap of Cucamonga." Read on.
***
Wow, I hardly ever check into this site and it was by pure fluke that I caught that "El Cap of Cucumonga" thread. How the hell did anyone ever hear of that?
You're going back 30 years here (Richard Harrison and I were in high school) but I remember this big electrical tower, perhaps 250 feet high, out by Chaffey College, which is way up in the foothills off Haven Ave. We caught it before the power lines were strung -- which lasted about 2 months -- and climbed it many times. It was dead vertical with rungs about three and a half feet apart, so it was somewhat dicy given the mini dynos between rungs. Also, at about 200 feet, you had to do a long move around a corner onto another flank of the A frame structure, and this always scared the crap out of us because, naturally, we were soloing. That bastard was a gigantic rush, even thought the rungs were totally bomber. It's just with 3D exposure, the big reaches and no rope, you felt really out there.
After the cables were strung and the power went on there was always a high hum about the area and none of us wanted to touch the thing after that.
But for awhile, The El Cap of Cucumonga was quite an attraction.
JL
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 27, 2006 - 07:44pm PT
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So marty(r) said, "That photo up-thread of Rick The Artist is priceless."
Hmmm, as well as Rick The Artist, he was also The Artist Formerly Known As Lycra Rick. ...always wore the stuff along with the kneepads. Fun guy. And the sunglasses deal was true. He went out-of-his-way to eventually give me a 90-minute cassette tape of that Texas (!) psychedelic band, the 13th Floor Elevators. (Still have it somewhere. Rummage, rummage. Yep. Easter Everywhere and Fire Engine, circa 1965.)
Another story: One of the Ski Mart lads wanted to "practice" bigwall hauling techniques. So gear was grabbed, and we adjourned to the parking lot, out back. Climbed up one of the light standards, and the laden haulbag (probably a Karrimore) was winched-up using Forrest pulleys, etc. Of course, we all each had to climb (maybe 50' up), just because... We all agreed that 50' of exposure like that was FAR MORE SERIOUS than anything at the crags. (Three-dimensional exposure, and the gently-swaying pole and all...)
The El Cap of Cucamonga must have been truly gripping!
Say, anyone remember the Korean EB knockoff--those brown piles--that we all called "Gook Boots". Much more awful than the molded Joe Browns that KP was trying to avoid!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 27, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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Addendum to Gramicci Exhibit "A"
(Rick A- no hand ascent of "Surprise" ,Weeping wall, Suicide)
(We're still waiting on exhibit "R")
foto bullwinkle (sorry dean, but timing is everything, I gotta do this till you get back)
So, this is the weeping wall, for folks who need reference to the steepness.
Surprise is in the blank face, leftish. 'Nice aerial-type shot in general.
Good shots of the Stonemaster Digs would be cool.
Anybody have more?- 'Helps tell the story.
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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Feb 27, 2006 - 07:58pm PT
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Wait! I don't see Ricky ANYWHERE in that photo! :o) (However, I don't doubt Accomazzo's ascent, 'cause I think I was there.) Nice pic, though...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 27, 2006 - 10:02pm PT
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Sewellymon: I think you're correct with the timing of the release of Fire's to the general public. Your dates sound pretty much right on. I had one last new pair of EBs, and I was just finishing them off when I got my first Fire's. I was really gripped about what I was going to do for shoes. And if you think KP was going to help a buddy out, you're stark raving mad. After all, that would have reduced his stash to a mere 24 pairs! So it would actually have taken about the amount of time you speak of, not just weeks.
I had completely, and for good reason, forgotten about the Korean EBs. Now I have to try and forget about them again. Thanks a lot, Robs.
Tarbuster: Got any similar pics of the Sunshine or the South Face of Suicide?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 27, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
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Darrel,
Pics of other faces. 'Nothing in my stash as good as that shot Dean gave to me. Any of us could scan something from a guide book, but that maybe has less character?
Dean shot the rock so well.
Think about that and get back to me.
All my "real" Idyllwild G books are long gone.
Meanwhile, I have a Harlin West Coast thing I can look at...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 27, 2006 - 10:51pm PT
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No interest in guidebook pics. Same old, same old. But that weeping wall pic by Dean is good.
I have an old Idyllwild guidebook, but I seem to have lost the one I originally bought in 72 quite some time ago. The one with all the old aid ratings in it. Too bad.
I remember Tobin's guidebook being auctioned in JT in the early 90's (perhaps at the same AAC event the picture in thread one was taken at). With his notes and ratings in it. Man, I wanted that thing. In spite of Ricky's and KP's prodings I finally gave up as it went over $400. Hey, it wasn't their money... I don't remember exactly who it went to. I think some lady. We couldn't figure out why she would be so interested in it or Tobin. Who knows. But it sure felt like a crime letting it get away like that. Then again, the money did go to a good cause. But I wish we could see it again.
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Dimes
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 27, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
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I got the EB's. They are real cool to look at but, took a pair out a few years ago and tried em' on. Bunk fit and was scared just walking across the floor! Anyone wants em' I'll sell em' cheap!! Got some pics I found recently and am getting ready to scan for the world to see. Get ready Chicken McNuggets!!!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 27, 2006 - 11:47pm PT
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off white has a pic of suicide that he took from tahquitz with a telephoto in 1977. it shows the whole f*#king crag, and you can count like 22 or 23 climbers on various routes going from the smooth sole wall all the way over to the vicinity of hair lip.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 28, 2006 - 12:55am PT
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yeah, I was thinking of that pic. I've got a good print I can scan, I'll try and do that tomorrow.
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WBraun
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2006 - 01:02am PT
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So far 588 posts to the the John Long epic "StoneMaster Stories"
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Feb 28, 2006 - 01:04am PT
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enough for a book, movie and sequel
Peace
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 28, 2006 - 01:11am PT
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"I KNOW that I was walking a slack wire as early as 1972. Graham and I discovered that we could buy plastic-coated 1/4" rigging wire down at the nautical supply shops in Newport Beach, and I had one strung at my house on Balboa Island. (...still have one strung, at my current digs.) I think the slack wire/chain thing hit the Valley that Spring, maybe?"
That would beat us in SoIll by 3 years. We were doing it on cranked down 11mm and webbing.
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