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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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Cool beans.
'K !!! ... here I am to answer to a cuple/few posts:
....
right, so:
#1, from Chiloe:
It occurs to me that if you'd scrambled up the rock ridge, you could glissade back down the snow slope. There must be a good reason you didn't do it that way.
Well Sir, thought some about it to be sure.
In the final head scratch, din't want to down-climb/belay OR rappel the loose 5.2 ... rather, UP the snow, then UP the loose 5.2 & gingerly, gleeful-ly ... AWAY from dat terrain, TOWARD THE SUMMIT seemed the most prudent course of action; thence, DOWN the LONGY-LONGISH HALF MILE 3rd class ridgey-ridge-o'rubbel-fest.
#2, from Chiloe:
I might have a 25m x 8.8mm that I could pass along, lighten your load for the next trip by a few grams. So long as you bring back more pictures.
Thanks! & I'll GLADLY take it for the quiver !!!
But ... sometimes you want the 11mm, for HIP belays, with STANCE amended SINGLE point anchors. Easier to GRIP the fat rope & more stable than using a belay device (think balance point, think evun ... "over the shoulder" belays)
#3, from Chiloe:
That rock looks better than I'd have guessed for the Never Summers. Yup, by comparison to all accounts I'd read of other targets ... that was the BEST rock in the NEVER-EVER-SUMMERS, hands down.
#4, from TwistedCrank:
You guys might have had more fun if your equipment were made of galvanized steel, your clothes were cotton and you carried bricks in your packs.
Yah Baby !!!!!!!!
Here's an idea of where ... er ... WHAT direction we're headin' into selection-wise ... as per concernin' next year's kit:
WOOO-HOOO & Berg Heil to All !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yers,
T-Buster.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Jul 13, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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Thanks Roy good to see you out and about!
TC
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
ColoRADo
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Jul 13, 2011 - 11:25am PT
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Tar thanks for posting another great mountain TR AND thanks for adding another climb to my list. I didn't even think about doing this route until I saw your pics. Maybe this summer. U rock!
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pocoloco1
Social climber
The Chihuahua Desert
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Jul 13, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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A Tar thread makes the day
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 13, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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I've thought that Gerry Roach's (or sombody's) next peakbagger guidebook ought to focus on "interesting" peaks rather than those in a certain range or above some particular height. So scrambles like Lone Eagle, Neva, Navajo could be in there while taller talus piles nearby were not. Looks like Static Peak by your route would be a fine candidate for the list. There must be scores of others equally "unknown."
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 13, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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Oh hell Yeah!
'Cept now I can't decide if my big applause is for Tar, for taking a stuck-in-the-Sierra guy on a tour of Colorado that, yes, made my mouth water,
OR
For Peter's pitch-perfect comment.
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adam d
climber
The Bears, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
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Cool ramble! I've been into the Never Summers a few times and this took me back. Thinking about beautiful ridgelines, talus, gathering mushrooms and roasting them on a fire, talus, beautiful forests, talus...and talus. I think you really might have found the best rock in the whole range!
On the 4th day of a trip in there my buddy got pretty severe AMS at the pass between Richthofen and Static. He was so altered and stumbly that there was no way we were going to drop down the steep east side of the col (doesn't Roach even call it 4th class maybe?) Anyhow, the short story is I managed to lead him back down to treeline on the west, no improvement, complaints of fluid in his lungs (that I didn't hear) resting pulse 100bpm even after lying in a sleeping bag for an hour, then ran out to get a rescue. I made it out by midnight and the helicopter picked him up at 6 the next morning, flew him straight to Denver and after 12hrs or so he was ok to leave the hospital.
I had an incident with a student on Electrode Peak that led to an evac too...the Never Summers are a tough place for people who happen to be with ME! (though I've always been fine and am not a disaster waiting to happen while anywhere else...just in the Never Summers)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 14, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
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Hell Yeah!
The hills are alive with the sound of music!
TFPU Mr. Tarbuster.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 14, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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95% snow-covered
always an ominous sign.
killer tr. really fun virtual ride, esp. since watching folks in snowshoes makes me feel lazy.
really, really jealous of all yr red blood cells. each and every frickin one.
signed
sea level anon.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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Well then KLK ...
I'll gladly swap you a gaggle of red blood cells for a modicum of foot, knee, hip, & arm tissue.
... or, come on out, flop down on the carpet here ringside (8,200') for a cuple days and scoop up some of your very own!
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Jul 21, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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Some how with the 4th of July holiday I missed this one. Your love of the mountains is palpable in your writing and choice of pictures. I don't think that anyone writes with more poetry or heart. Thanks for sharing once again.
Bob
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Jul 21, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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What a poseur.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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Poseur?
Ye speaks da unfettered trooth O'le Goat'sHeadSoupster.
Yet, as is well supported in the lit'trature ...
 It ain't so important whether you win or lose, it's all 'bout how you look doin' it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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Sometimes Supertopo reminds us there's life out there!
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