Moro Rock closed to climbing

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 61 - 72 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jun 14, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Chimney is the Forest service and they are out of Squaw Valley. Its been monitered with help from the Buck Rock Lookout Foundation last I have heard. It is the same protocols, but different watchers.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jun 14, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
that hasn't been my experience at all. the pushing around is recent, within the past 20 years. before that, rangers actually ranged and knew their territories much better than they do now. they were helpful, friendly people who rarely had to exercise law enforcement authority.

The pastoral past (Melanie's first album playing in the background)...

this was my experience in the upper midwest and even in the mountains of southern california. at the same time, the democratic process has become greatly diminished. gone are publicly reasoned approaches to policy, well-publicized meetings for public expression and discussion, and periodic review of measures which should only be temporary, such as the peregrine issue.

The demonic, [liberal] fascist present where Peregrines have become a pivotal instrument of mass oppression...

from this discussion it would appear that human activity is being restricted even further as the peregrine population actually increases well past the point of "least concern". and human recreational activity had nothing to do with the decline of the falcon.

Unchaste Peregrines overrun the human race...

what we're left with is a sick and unscientific myth that the mere presence of a human being is going to somehow pollute and destroy nature, and there's a hidden poison in that myth: if people are divorced from nature, if they encounter it rarely at best, they come to care less and less about it, and the really destructive things which happen--and they are continuing to happen--just aren't that important any more. i think that's the real result of this silly focus on the little corners of wilderness, the crises of this and that little species. the big, destructive policies trundle on without check. the public thinks small.

Humans trapped in walled enclave cities, forced to climb plastic while perfectly good granite disintegrates under tons of corrosive Peregrine feces...
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jun 14, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
What's really ironic about closing climber access to crags like Summit Rock, Indian Rock and Castle Rock due to Peregrine nesting is that it was climbers who were initially responsible for conserving these areas for public use in State (Castle Rock) and County (Sanborn-Skyline) parks in the first place. Russell and Dorothy Varian used to climb at Castle, Indian and Summit Rocks in the 1930s with a bunch of their friends who later became the Rock Climbing chapter of the Sierra Club in Berkeley. IOWs: The State and County authorities are attacking the very people who were originally responsible for the founding of those parks. It was the Varian Trust who put up the money to buy the original area of Castle Rock and that was with the understanding that one of its primary uses was specifically for climbing.

It does seem that about ten years ago the Rangers and Staff at Castle Rock SP and Sanborn-Skyline County Parks became much more into controlling visitor use patterns and preventing the spread of new routes in new areas. There must have been some consensus and co-ordination at the top that led to this new position because before that they governed their jurisdictions with what might be considered benign neglect. Sure, Miles busted for open containers, dogs and reefer, but he didn't patrol the park trying to find out where the climbers were going and what routes were going up in what obscure, remote area. And the County Park rangers were seldom if ever seen at Summit Rock except when there was an organized clean-up partnered with REI, BayAreaClimbers.com or SheClimbs.com.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Jun 14, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
If the birds are so disturbed by the presence of climbers, why the heck did they select such a popular climbing rock as Summit to nest at in the first place? Santa Clara County Parks is now trying to insist that the Peregrines moved to Summit because all of the climbing activity at Castle Rock disturbed them. Improbable to say the least when you stop to consider that there must be 500 rocks in Castle Rock State Park where there is no climbing activity whatsoever.

if this were really a scientific issue, that question would have to be studied and addressed. does the presence of climbers drive the falcons away? are they so upset that they won't find another crag around the corner where climbers rarely come and go on nesting and breeding? is it even possible to address such questions with a "control" group?

i, for one, have come to suspect the agendas of many academic biologists, engaged in their little games of publishing and preening for stature within their field. many of them undertake a pet area, pun intended, and come to think of it as "their" bailiwick, and themselves as expert dictators of public policy. less-educated land managers tend to be led around by these people very easily. what disappears is the critical thinking and public review that such "expertise" mandates.

anecdotal evidence seems to indicate that climbers are really no problem. if the birds moved into a popular area like summit--as they did down here at williamson--it would indicate that climbing really doesn't dissuade them from leading normal falcon's lives. every falcon i've encountered climbing does its own tooling just fine, and i've encountered them year after year in the same areas--another example is the enduring prairie falcon presence at devil's punchbowl over more than 20 years, in my experience. this is a non-issue, but the guv'mint won't let it die.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jun 16, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
Actually, the world's leading expert on Peregrines, Prof. Glen Stewart of UC Santa Cruz Predatory Bird Group, says that the Summit Rock year-round closure is "exceptional" and "unprecedented". And the Access Fund recently got Prof. Stewart's letter stating that opinion entered into the public record at a meeting of the Santa Clara County Parks and Recreation Commission in San Jose. However, it's the "ecologist-ranger" on the staff of County Parks, who went to the State of California and found his own "experts" up at State Fish and Wildlife in Sacramento, who in turn authorized the blanket closure. Guess you can get whatever opinion you want depending on which "experts" you consult!

In any event, now County Parks does sound like they want to work out a compromise solution. Wait and see!
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jun 16, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
....stay on the topic regarding Moro specifically. A bit of hijacking going on here, boys.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jun 22, 2011 - 03:46pm PT
All of you who are waiting to go up and do "The Bottom Line", "Whistler", "Pressure Sensitive" or "Levitiys End" get ready. The West Face of Moro Rock is now open. Just the East Side will be closed for Peregrine activites. Enjoy!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 22, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
Thank you to whoever was responsible for narrowing the closure.

John
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 10, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Would be interesting to know how the definition of the closure at Moro Rock was narrowed? Did the local Access Fund act as an advocate-mediator? Would be interesting to know, so that climbers in the Bay Area could apply a similar methodology to re-opening Summit Rock.

However, those who poo-poo a conspiracy theory should take note of the fact that the Audubon Society employs paid environmental advocates like Shani Kleinhaus, who has a Ph.D. in ecology from Davis, to insist on rocks being closed down completely due to Peregrine nesting, whether the birds are bothered by climbing near their nests or not.

http://www.togethergreen.org/People/FellowDetails.aspx?fellowID=98

http://www.scvas.org/index.php?page=text&id=staff

She works all around the Western US and has a generally low opinion of climbers, regarding them as anti-social law breakers who might attack nesting peregrines to reclaim 'their' rocks. The Nature Nazis do network together rather effectively, lobbying and penetrating local government and regulatory agencies. Shani not only has contacts on the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors but on the governing board of the Mid-Peninsula Regional Open Space (MROSD) board of directors.

The Nature Nazis are just a lot more effective at networking than climbers have been, at least until now. We just need to make our presence and numbers known to these little bureaucratic boards and committees that issue closure notices without any public comment or input.
Send

climber
Earth
Aug 14, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
I was there yesterday and the closure sign was not there :) so we climbed a bit at bear damage.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Aug 14, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
However, those who poo-poo a conspiracy theory should take note of the fact that the Audubon Society employs paid environmental advocates like Shani Kleinhaus, who has a Ph.D. in ecology from Davis, to insist on rocks being closed down completely due to Peregrine nesting, whether the birds are bothered by climbing near their nests or not.

http://www.togethergreen.org/People/FellowDetails.aspx?fellowID=98

http://www.scvas.org/index.php?page=text&id=staff

She works all around the Western US and has a generally low opinion of climbers, regarding them as anti-social law breakers who might attack nesting peregrines to reclaim 'their' rocks. The Nature Nazis do network together rather effectively, lobbying and penetrating local government and regulatory agencies. Shani not only has contacts on the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors but on the governing board of the Mid-Peninsula Regional Open Space (MROSD) board of directors.

The Nature Nazis are just a lot more effective at networking than climbers have been, at least until now. We just need to make our presence and numbers known to these little bureaucratic boards and committees that issue closure notices without any public comment or input.

Bruce, as I was reading this thread with interest, I saw this post. I am not sure that I agree with the thrust of what I gather is the point of your post, which appears to be to warn against this woman activist, and to suggest getting our own activists to fight her in the various venues.

I followed your links, and it seems like she is a huge asset to the environmental community. It would seem to be a much better use of time to bring her to our side and educate her to the truth, rather than to harden her stance. I'm rather sure that she and we share far, far more viewpoints on ecology than we differ upon, which gives us a basis upon which to build. When you look at what she wants to do with the immigrant community, you'd think she'd want to touch the community that enters the backcountry probably more than any other.

"If I turn my enemy into my friend, have I not defeated my enemy?"
-Abraham Lincoln
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Aug 16, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
Moro is now Totally Open............and still no one's up there??
Messages 61 - 72 of total 72 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta