Legendary guidebooks/authors

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Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2011 - 11:25am PT
There are several difficult no-hands routes, upon which once cannot help noticing the steep decline below that terminates in Jenny Lake.

they just narrowly missed discovering deep water soloing

;)
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 31, 2011 - 12:26am PT
How about some of the new "fancy guides" full color ect. I love Josephson's Winter Dance, but I wouldn't ususally take that in the pack. It sounds like Donini would probably prefer something like Cousins' old map/guide of the South Fork.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 31, 2011 - 12:32am PT
It's not really a guidebook but I just picked up a first edition of David Starr Jordan's Alps of The King-Kern Divide 1907. A small hardcover with photographs of the area. It is essentially a pissing match book saying how much better the Sierra Nevada's are than the French Alps, kind of maybe.
John Morton

climber
Jun 1, 2011 - 11:09am PT
Joe Kelsey loves to call attention to a book which has a misprint in the title: "Cracks Ulimited", a guide to Vaudewoo, WY.
JohnnyG

climber
Jun 1, 2011 - 11:20am PT
Who first introduced the concept of a drawn topo rather than a written description?
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Jun 1, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
JG,
It may have been discussed in this old cool thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/693057/Origin-evolution-of-the-modern-climbing-topo
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 5, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
1955 guide to Pinnacles national mon is up there in my mind with the term legendary.

A truly classic guide: Here are some samples from this thin work:




looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 5, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
Bum shoulder is keeping me off the crags for a bit, so here is another early and legendary guidebook:


looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jun 5, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
The 1949 Preliminary High Sierra Guide edited by Dave Brower:

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 5, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
The drawings in the Squamish guide are by Tim Auger, a name that might be familiar to some Yosemite climbers. The cover sketch is of Tim himself.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
I think we may be the first to use watercolor (??) on our topos in the new Tollhouse guidebook. Anyone else ever see a watercolor topo (in a guidebook!)? Ha ha, didn't THINK so.
Making history folks... just pushing the envelope

;)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 6, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
Randy, would you be interested in parting with that guidebook, or perhaps swapping?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 6, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
Where did you come up with those old gems, looking sketchy?

John
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Jun 6, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
Here is some esoterica from San Diego County:
Mt Woodson Boulder Maps: Rom Amick, Feb 1987
Deerhorn Valley Topos: Ray Olson
Aid Climbs of Mount Woodson, a one page printout, author not listed
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jun 6, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
I have a guide to North Face of Strawberry Peak in the San Gabriels. It is a copy from the Mendenhall's. It is a crude topo and explanation of each route. Strawberry Roan and Tip Toe Traverse are among a few of the routes. I went up and gave Strawberry Roan a shot several years back but ended up bailing off a yellow TCU, it's surely still up there.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Jun 6, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
The 1955 Pinnacles guide is a real beauty. Thanks for posting some pics.

Tom,
Don't flatter yourself, I think that at least the Europeans have incorporated some watercolor in topos for a few years. :) Some are quite nice. The coloring on this one I found quickly may not be watercolor, but it's well done regardless.



And of course the great Jeremy Collins has done some beauties with watercolor:


Look up his topo for Border Country on Middle Cathedral, too large to post here.

Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jun 6, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
Johnny G asked: "Who first introduced the concept of a drawn topo rather than a written description?"

The first topo I recall using was a hand drawn one for The Happy Hooker on Trono Blanco circa 1978, and I think the Brit topos to Yosemite came before that?

Don Brooks and Donn Harder had a guide to Castle Rock and Peshastin in WA State around that time that just consisted of double page photo spreads of crags, one plain and one with lines and route numbers which corresponded to a simple route list with minimal gear info. I think that guide was really quite revolutionary and relatively unnoticed. My mold bespattered copy is certainly legendary in my own mind...

ERIC BECK: YOUR SAN DIEGO LINKS DON'T WORK. Got a copy of your early Mission Gorge guide you'd care to post too?
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Jun 6, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
Sorry, Off White. Those aren't actually links, rather the convention of underlining the title.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
Nate we're talking guidebooks here, not posters that happen to be topos.

Wahoo we still are the first!

;)
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