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imStein
Trad climber
Triumph, Idaho
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In a slot about two meters wide, start back to back with your partner. Lock arms and each get a foot up. Apply pressure and advance one leg at a time. At all times one of you should have both feet against the wall. This works pretty well in a chimney of the correct size. Oh... and plan your exit in advance. The chinese chimney is easy to start and difficult to finish. Falling is an option.
No. We did not have the benefit of adult supervision.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 28, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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I wish I could find my book of Tami's cartoons with the yellow cover. It has a great drawing of her depiction of someone falling in a chimney where the walls are depicted as a cheese grater.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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The Larry said: Hey Couchmaster I remember that route. Can't quite remember the name though.
LOL, Larry's Squeeze:-) Nice job on the lead. Pratt or any of those old masters of the wyde would have been proud. Getting stuck fast in that hole up there and breathing dust a pitch up in uncertainly territory with no phone or help nearby ramped up the claustrophobia a notch for me. Not only would I never have fallen out of that, I was wondering if I would be able to get out alive for a bit, and had a brief moment wondering about the Aron Ralston style newspaper headlines and crows pecking on my body that would have followed.
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sethsquatch76
Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
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I fell out of downward bound couple weeks back......."5.8".........thanks Waren!
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Chef Wade
Trad climber
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There is a Gunks climb named Updraft rated 5.5 and it would be hard to fall out of that.
Oh yeah I remember that one. Kinda hard to get into if you had a big breakfast.
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donald perry
Trad climber
kearny, NJ
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Somewhere there is a story of someone on search and rescue dealing with a body of someone who fell down the Salathe chimney on Sentenal.
DJP
PS I fell out of the chimney on the Salathe wall, no big deal however. I just kind of slithered down and hung on the gear to try it again without the rack.
I thought I might fall out of the hollow flake, at one point on the 5.8 you cannot wedge your feet and it is truly an off-width. I think that is the hardest part, not the 5.9 below. If I fell I think I would just slide down, and perhaps I could run out of steam in some painful contorted move where one would have to keep going down till they fell out. Hard to say.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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You might not fall at 32 feet per second per second but
Ahab comes to mind as a good fall provoker for the grade
peace
Karl
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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"Pilot to bombadier, pilot to bombardier, open bombay doors, open bombay doors!"
hahahaha
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Gary's crack machine is presently dialed into my newly discovered nemesis width: Just barely wider than a comfortable foot-stack. And it tapers a little to ensure that everyone finds their special width.
It's a slow bleed to stay put, and a huffing puffing marathon to move up. Three laps on that thing left me scabbed in all the right places, and feeling like a truck drove over me for a couple of days.
Forget 8-minute abs, here comes 8-minute Steck Salathe! Thanks Gary.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
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Great thread, forgot I'd posted here till I got to my words Haha!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:32pm PT
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One of you disciples (or is it apostles?) of Gary's Crack Machine should, perhaps, take your training up a step and challenge those WideBoyz. I mean, I can see the Brits breaking the Enigma code before us but it still irks me that they are ahead of us in the Wide.
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