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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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roger's look'n good!
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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Killer Pillar on Elephant Rock has an anchor bolt/hanger on the 11b route, the north most route on the formation that is cracked. Its been that way since it was placed according to Dimitri and its kinda sketch. Go take a look! I would say some of the other anchor bolts need replacing too, cause its a long way down to the Merced from there.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 15, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
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Once climb that could use an upgrade, though I assume it still see's a bunch of traffic in the current state, is The Boltway on Stately Pleasure Dome.
It seems that it has been randomly upgraded since the FA.
On the first pitch there are a variety of 5/16 inch (i think) button heads and a single 1/4 bolt and maybe even one or two modern 3/8 inch bolts.
(Can you still use tuning forks to get out 5/16 inch bolts? Any other methods besides a crowbar?)
The second pitch seems to have been upgraded to 3/8 inch hardware.
Also another meadows climb that could use a single bolt fixed would be Needle and Spoon.
The 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch is still an old 1/4 inch while the rest have been upgraded to 3/8 inch stainless.
Small tasks I'm sure in the big scheme of things.
 Luke
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 15, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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Luke,
I think the problem with Boltway is that its start bolted over Eunuch, so it shouldn't really be there.
Last time I was up there, the original 1/4" Eunuch bolt was still in place, surrounded by 3/8" added below and above it....
Non-original bolts tend to just get left and not replaced.
Yes, Roger has tuning forks for 5/16" and 3/8".
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Oct 19, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Bump. Did the anchor on Pink Dream on Elephant Rock ever get replaced?
I might be heading that way this weekend and didn't know if I should bring a bolt kit...
(Clint, thanks for the info on the Boltway. There is a bunch of history that I am not aware of!)
Luke
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 19, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
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Luke,
The Pink Dream anchor is not replaced yet.
It's safe enough to use, because there are several bolts and other gear backs it up.
But it's ugly.
If you would like to leave a rope fixed on it, Roger, Dan or I could go up and replace it.
You can borrow a good lead line from me to do this if you'd like.
Or contact Roger or Dan.
Roger is in the VIP (Volunteers in Parks) site in North Pines, next to site 401.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 22, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Thx Clint and Roger for your hard work.
had the pleasure to clip the new bolts (and skip the one above the roof, yikes) on the first two pitches of nuts n bolts on starr king this weekend. Looks like you guys stopped there.
The third pitch has a single lead bolt and two bolts at top of p3, then way up on the climb a couple more lead bolts here and there, then anchors on the top of pitch 7?. One super sketchy,, but unnecessary, bolt above p7 anchors.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Thanks for the beta on Nuts and Bolts, p3 and above!
Yes, you are right - we stopped at the top of p2. Based on route descriptions, I didn't think there was going to be a higher anchor to rappel from.
But climbing the route is the only way to get this info - I will update the overlay/topo based on your helpful info.
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Ryan K
climber
the valley
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Jan 27, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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So Clint...
Ever get on Cosmic Diesel??? Looks like a sick line!
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