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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Threesomes are fun--that's what it's all about, isn't it, especially on classic mods?
To each his own I guess; I dislike (roped) threesomes.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Matt, it was me who got us off the dome safely. We had a stuck rope, sure, but that was after getting to the ground safely. Thanks to me.
I would have rapped the other route but people were coming up it. I didn't want to interfere.
Read it again. Putz....
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Threesomes are fun
The most sage advice in the tread....:)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Matt, we bailed because neither of us could figure out how to get across the notch safely. The jug-fest is AFTER the notch, which features a exposed 150' sheer face on one side.
Also, we were unsure of the route rinding after looking across the notch to the route.
Point being - we called for a bail. And did it. No injuries. Should we have pushed our uncertainties and doubts? That seems unsafe.
I don't climb to prove anything. I do it for fun. We weren't having fun, and the timeline was running thin too.
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ochotona
Social climber
The Portal, CA
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Yeah, some of my friends were coming out late that night from the SS area and we went out looking for them. The craziest weather I've ever seen in Red Rocks - fully horizontal blowing rain - the kind that you get soaked standing for just a few minutes out in. I think another contributing factor was that people get casual about Red Rocks weather "It's vegas, the weather is always good..." wrong. Glad they survived and hopefully they learned some things.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sure are a lot of self-imagined armchair heroes on this thread.
Did you read the SAR report? Wind gusting to 60mph, temps low 30s, rain mixed with snow. Have you even been in a Red Rocks descent gully during heavy rain? Ever been borderline hypothermic and fading fast? Ever even seen legitimate 60mph wind?
Yet you're all SO VERY SURE you'd have done something differently.
And frankly Bluering, Matt is right, the only thing you'd be rescuing is the last beer from icy waters of the Igloo cooler.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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And frankly Bluering, Matt is right, the only thing you'd be rescuing is the last beer from icy waters of the Igloo cooler.
Wow! Seems you're leg-humpingly obsessed with insulting me lately. Nice work.
You are so awesome, man.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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That's his m.o. Get use to it. Elcapinyourazz trolls supertopo looking to exploit any weakness in those he considers inferior to himself.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Ya big words coming from a guy who hides behind an avatar.
You talking to me, superstar?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I was in this same situation on the same descent. Solar Slab Gully is not a easy obvious rap in the dark, as its ledgy and wierd in places, and some of the rap anchors are in non obvious places. We overtook some people as they began the rap in the dark and rain, and because I have been down the gully before I asked them if they minded if I went first and found the anchors and have them rap with us on the descent. They were happy to oblige and to get to mindlessly slide down the ropes, while I was happy to quickly thread the anchors, pull the ropes, get things done and moving quickly. Worked out well for all, and the four of us rocketed down the gully in good time, no epic for anyone.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Keep trying, Matt...you'll get your story right eventually!
Classic sign of disingenuous. Keep re-shaping the discussion until it fits into you puzzled world view. "oh, that didn't work, we'll try this angle!!!"
weak, dude....weak.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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+1 for what Studly did-this is how I would've dealt with it too.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Probably at least tried, Matt. Give it a go.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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#1 Don't make the situation worse.
#2 Don't make the situation worse.
#3 Don't make the situation worse.
Anyone who doesn't follow this, doesn't belong in SAR, nor doing any rescuing of anybody.
The OP saved the rescuees lives, by placing the phone call, and sitting on the phone for 45 min.
No one was going up that wall that night. Doesn't sound like anyone was coming down, either.
The 3 women? They were there, too. I don't hear any criticism of them? Why not? As far as we know, didn't even bother with a phone call, and they were ON THE WALL, when cries for help were occurring.
If the OP had returned to the base of the wall with "stuff", he would still be sitting there.
Let SAR run the incidents. They are trained to do so, we are not.
Don't make things worse.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Well to fuel the flame of this exploding thread...
Sorry, but I find it hard to believe hiking an approach trail back and forth to the base of a crag to the car and back is going to kill you or cause you needing to be rescued. I don't care how bad the storm is. I suppose if you didn't have extra warm gear in the car it's a moot point since the gates are locked after dark.
I find it kinda suprising the SAR couldn't send a hasty team up to the base with some warm gear.
:::waits for werner to slam me for questioning SAR protocol:::
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Did you read the SAR report? Wind gusting to 60mph, temps low 30s, rain mixed with snow.
This is the part I don't understand. People here are criticizing the OP for... For what, exactly? He warned the pair that darkness was falling and the weather was deteriorating, and suggested that they should head down. They didn't. They chose to go on in the face of the dark and the weather, without adequate clothing.
So, put yourself in the OP's place. You get down, and look up and see the headlamps bobbing about, and come to the realization that the two people are likely going to be stuck up there. You phone SAR, and eventually are told that no, there will be no SAR activity that night.
So, there you are. In darkness, in a storm of rain mixed with snow, with temps hovering just above freezing, and the wind howling at up to 60 mph.
And you are saying you'd have headed up four pitches and rescued them?
Really?
Have you actually ever tried climbing four pitches in a howling sleet storm? At night?
Easy to criticize from the comfort of your armchairs.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Yeah, something like that. The main difference being the dudes were a couple of my best friends, not just a couple of annoying noobs that got in my way earlier in the day. Ive also been on the sh#t end of that stick before needing rescue.
I think the main beef people have with the OP is how he obviously uses the fact that someone almost died as an excuse to whine about how slow gumbies clogged his 5 star 5.6 experience, forced him to run it out on variations and sling his own tree rappel anchors. Duh....
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Lamebone. Still the samebone.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Not as lame as supertopo these days.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Yeah, something like that. The main difference being the dudes were a couple of my best friends, not just a couple of annoying noobs that got in my way earlier in the day. Ive also been on the sh#t end of that stick before needing rescue.
I think the main beef people have with the OP is how he obviously uses the fact that someone almost died as an excuse to whine about how slow gumbies clogged his 5 star 5.6 experience, forced him to run it out on variations and sling his own tree rappel anchors. Duh....
Uhhh...no. This information is important in the context of how the OP was feeling during his climb, and why. This is generally important in understanding CONTEXT. In this story, it goes far in explaining that the OP was already somewhat hypothermic. Duh, indeed.
Why, the HELL, do we care about your ignorant friends or yourself. Not every thread is about YOU and YOUR idiot mistakes, nor do we want to hear about YOU.
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