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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
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Crimpie-
There's a lot more than OWs there! Trust me on that! Then there's some skeery face climbing! Water Streak II, at 5.9+ and add the Kopischka finish at 10a. Not that bad. There's always "5.11 Crack" which has a lot of face/friction at 5.9+. From the anchor, can toprope Gunga Din at 11a.
Fun!!
Rodger
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
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I'm agreeing with Jaybro on the approximate time line. (This will give me time to do like a million jumping jacks between now and then).
Yeah, that Flying Butress is pretty stiff for 5.10b, isn't it Prod? Frankly, I'd have to call that one of the hardest 5.10b routes that I've ever been on.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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You mean because it overhangs more than it rises? That it takes virtually every technique from face, lieback, thin flaring jams, to squeeze?
No, that can't be it....
A story,
Once upon a time Flying buttress, upper slot left, and grand traverse were all rated 5.10+ to 'I and me droogs,' (Scarpelli, Kim Weaver, Bill Roberts (RIP)), impossible. Then we went to the valley one spring, after doing pullups all winter long (and it was a long winter) on what would come to be known as "the .10c offwidth tour". When we got back we were climbing well and found we could do all those climbs. So, not wanting to be full of ourselves, or guilty of grade inflation, we decided they must all be .10b. That's where those ratings came from. At the time, Horn's Mother and Boardwalk were rated .10+, left tube .10a, cupcake 5.9+. I think it was that same summer that Big Pink/Short but Wide, was done and rated .11b.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Feb 16, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
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beer is the only thing that ever helped my ow climbing
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Feb 16, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
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Makes me feel better that eeyonkee says that Flying Buttress is the hardest 10b he's been on. When I did that about 2-3 years ago, I couldn't believe how burly it felt. Even with two shirts on, I was bleeding from my right shoulderblade from trying to kind of chimney/press up into the roof. That was my first day and first route at Vedauwoo. I haven't made much of an effort to go back there.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 16, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
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Lower Progressive kicked my ass last time I was there. I'd call that a damn hard 5.9.
Prod.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Feb 16, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
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There is a pitch high on hotline or one of those routes across from the Cookie that is the exact mirror image of the Flying Buttress at Vedauwoo. I swear. I think it is rated .10d.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
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Yeah near the end of hotline .10d. Wheels hated it!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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Ok, so I probably shouldn't bump this...but... A couple of things I gotta get off of my chest (located somewhere underneath a grey tangled mass of fibrous-like stuff). Brokedown, didn't mean do not acknowledge your offer to belay me - somehow I missed that post, and I thank you for the offer. PhantomX?...um, good posts - you know, all that Joyce Brothers stuff. Hankster - that video is some funny sh#t! Jaybro and Mike? - Thanks for the encouragement and playing along.
This is about two thirds tongue in cheek and one third a desperate, last-ditch dream of an old climber just pathetic enough to believe in dreams of grandeur.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 17, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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Listen to the Grateful Dead.
Lots and lots of Grateful Dead.
And definitely go shirtless- that silver sweater should act like velcro on the crystals.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Feb 17, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
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Grug, the wife says your a chump and will never make it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 17, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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That mat will hook right into the lichens up there!
Though drljefe has something, I wore a Skeletal reality shirt under a rugby on the first ascent...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 17, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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Is that the cover of Climbing #239?
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Feb 17, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
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With all this positive energy -- I know you can do it!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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Back to business. Realistically, this is all I've going for me up til now.
1. Fear of failure - by far my strongest position, and possibly my "ace in the hole".
2. That diagram or whatever that MH2 came up with a few posts back. I don't understand it, but it lends a certain "scientific, I-know-what-I'm-talking-about sensibility" to my quest.
3. Jaybro's pulling for me. Never underestimate the "soft" stuff.
4. Planning on working out like crazy (remains to be grounded).
5. Giving up Pralines and Cream ice cream.
6. Only drink beer in the company of others.
7. Floss.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 18, 2011 - 12:22am PT
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You're so 'there'!
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426
climber
☬
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Feb 18, 2011 - 08:19am PT
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gear?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 18, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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Friday morning, inspiration for Grug, Bump!
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