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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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I was a young gun with a freshly purchased hilti. I was replacing old 1/4" bolts up and down the northern cali coast.
One beach has a tower, maybe 40 feet high and so-so rock. It had a few sport routes on it. The only route I wanted to do repetedly was a TR, unclimbable unles accessed by climbing other routesto the tower summit.
The Tr was called "The missing Red Bannana Slug". I asked aroud for oppinions on bolting it. Sounded like the FAist and th geeral scene were into it.
IT starts by lybacking a flake the size of two grand pianos, then crinps to a shale top out. The flake sounded moe solid than the surrouundng rock, and would not take gear due to it's flaring chosy nature. So I bolted the climb, 4 bolts one on the flake.
Two weks later (?) there was a nearthquake. I went to the beach and the whhole ist half of the clinb was on the ground With one bolt sticking up.
It left a big mess under tthe now gone flake. Tried to clinb it again, sucked. Renamed it "A salted Slug".
Sorry for the rambling, I am on a shitload of ditltil another sh#t in the hospital.
Bye.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Some day that some boulder is going to come down to be with Boulder One. It rolled around nicely in the Northridge quake. A couple little more shaking ought to bring it down. Now that would be an interesting trundle!
i figured it was worth a couple fotos for this thread, since i was headed up there today.
here's a look at degrees-of-separation on the NE side--spider, does this reflect some jumping around during the '94 quake? or might it have been from the 1857 quake?
view up close on the SE side--center of gravity seems to be leaning nicely to the back:
however the view from the NW is not quite as comforting:
will it fall next week--or two ice ages from now?
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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yes Jingy, the crazy thing is the route was first put up in 2009 and fell down, probably in late 2010, and yes there was a 3.5 e-quake in Sedona a couple of weeks ago, don't know where the epicenter was. Unfortunately there were 5 of us there that day and no camera. I'll be back there soon and i'll get some pics.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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My Project!
Maybe Stick It will fall over soon (or just turn into a massive OW).
that's one way to "tick" my projects.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I remember the old Patagonia add with Charlie Fowler climbing
the Fang, near Vail, CO, with the caption "it fell down the
next day"
(a notorious, tiny ice sickle). . .
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Tony - that was strictly from Northridge. Plus it has erroded in the last 15 years It was juicy right after the quake. I've thought about placing wedge stones to make sure when it wobbles they drop into place and it comes down for sure. But...too much trouble.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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The iconic leaning column on the Durrance route on Devil's Tower moves substantially when you stand on it. If it falls off sumiting by the easiest route will change significantly.
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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The missing red banana is/was my route.
Didn't know your story tho, Paul.
Salted slug sounds appropriate.
And didn't that have 5/16" buttonheads? ;-)
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I expect a good hard quake could easily topple Balancing Rock at Echo Cliffs. That thing looks so precariously balanced a harsh word could make it jump. Never seen anyone climb the routes on it.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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I climbed both the right, and left Killer Cracks shortly before that block fell.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, mr. E ... very interesting stuff here...
thanks for the share...
:)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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I heard that a 1997 rockfall ... the left side of Werner's Crack fell off! ~ Clint
Think this is it(?)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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at Last Resort Cliff...
before Jan 2011:
after Jan 2011
the first pitch of Plumkin and the climbs Turning Point, Side Kick, and Tiger Paw are gone.
as reported in the thread Been to Last Resort cliff lately?
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fsck
climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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I bet Honeymoon Chimney goes in the next century.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 29, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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Cool photo set Ed! Interesting that the tree hung on right at the break line.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 29, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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Anyone climb that dihedral yet Ed? Looks bitchen!!!
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laughingman
Mountain climber
Seattle WA
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Dec 29, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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The west face of the Aiguille du Dru falls off every couple of years.
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BLD
climber
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Dec 29, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
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Great thread!
So, all the posts here have got me thinking and remembering. Back in my day at stony point I remember a story that shot chills down my greenhorn spine. Mike Waugh was telling me about this time he had a Greyhound bus sized chunk of rock tumbling down towards him from way above. He talked about how he just got kinda peaceful as it seemed he was doomed. The big chunk bounced right over his party. They were fine, not a scratch! Pumped with adrenaline for hours if not days!........ I wanna say he said it was on the Column?????? Anyone heard this story or dose Mike post here?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 30, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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Warbler: "I was eyeballing a roof crack which split the 200 ft wide arch above Happy Isles some time ago. It looked like a splitter hand crack through a 20 ft horizontal roof ... The arch and its crack dropped a month later - the Big One at Happy Isles."
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