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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Jan 18, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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That is marvelous work!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 18, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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I just saw the video Vertical Frontier for the first time I few nights ago, narrated by Tom Brokaw. What a great video on the history of Yosemite climbing! It has all the heavy hitters in it, including lots of footage of Warren Harding climbing early in his career, and later short interview clips of him. He seemed like such a good chap after listening to him! and Royal Robbins came off as a nice guy also, apologetic and somewhat embarrassed for his efforts to chop Warrens WOEML route, as he said after he was climbing it for a bit, it was all they could do to get up it. Good for you Royal, class act for saying that.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
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M. H.
I take your point, how does a non-climber get so interested in the history of a mountain climber. I never intended to write about Harding. It was only after lurking for six months, that I decided to chime in with my memories of Warren. I have always been drawn to characters, and that describes Harding. I have also become fascinated by the "nuts and bolts" part of climbing. Chuckle.
While I am not a writer. I do love to read biographies, especially those of great adventures such as Ernest Shackleton, Alexander Humboldt, Sir Edmund Hillary etc. You might say, I am an armchair adrenaline junkie.
I too often question how do I get off writing about Harding. The answer is that I hope to leave a record of what he was like as a person, not just a climber. Lucky for me, I enjoy researching and trying to fit the puzzle pieces together.
That is why I need to hear from those of you out there that have memories of him. Those memories help to fill out the picture of Harding, so he can become dimensional and not just a caricature.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 19, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
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Park Rat and Jan
you both are perceptive and clear writers. It's a great contribution to Yosemite climbing history to have the perspectives of women closely associated with top level climbers of the "golden age".
I wonder if Galen Rowell said that in a moment of pique or fireside humour.
From what I've read of Harding he liked living on the edge of human endeavor, not over the edge of disrespecting others. I can't see him as a robber, thief or other major miscreant. Certainly Galen knew him far better than I, since I never knew him at all.
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jstan
climber
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Jan 19, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
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During dinner at Frank's gathering we had four or five climbers including Roger Breedlove, Anders, myself, and Steve Grossman all throwing misinformation at Susie. She refuted us all in real time simultaneously.
I have never before seen footwork that good. As I remember it I told her to get a job with State. After fifteen minutes Putin would be reduced to "Anything you say Susan." And Hu Jintao would be asking if he might buy some more US debt.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
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H.T.
There may be something to be said about a woman's point of view when it comes to macho man. I think females can accept macho behavior without feeling challenged or threaten. That may help to sharpen our perspective.
I think Galen was saying that Harding was a rugged individualist, yet he respected others who may not have agreed with him. Harding always said he just wanted to do his own thing.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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JSTAN,
Your description of my dancing around all of you climbers is way too kind. I was so tickled to be sitting in the Mountain Room with such an accomplished and knowledgeable group. I really didn't know which way to look. If I held my own, it was only adrenaline, as I was so happy to be with all of you that night.
If I earned your approval that night, that really does make my day. I couldn't have hoped for more, what fun. If Harding had been at that table, we would have been drinking more and saying less, however I think he would've approved of our discussion.
Thank you so much for your kind assessment.
Susie
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 19, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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Such a wonderful contribution to this site. Thank you so much. Though I have to confess, when I first read Downward Bound I was a bit too young to get Harding's sense of humor. Still, whenever I climb in places with a history such as the Valley, I'm always reminded of the quote by Sir Isaac Newton:
"If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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Bump for Warren thread.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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I knew Warren in the late 60's and early 70's mostly and some in his later years. He was always a fun man to be around and quite gracious and friendly to anyone who happened by, unlike some of the "big names" at the time.
Thanks for your post and please keep posting about a man who was then and now an inspiration to me and many others!
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go-B
climber
Revelation 7:12
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Nothing like hauling while you prusik!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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What an inspirational figure in Yosemite's Golden Age!
Thanks for the post Susie,
Thor
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go-B
climber
Revelation 7:12
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Feb 13, 2011 - 10:29am PT
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Looks like he ran out of rock to climb!
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MisterE
Social climber
MEEP MEEP
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Feb 13, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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Thanks Susie - what a heart-felt and beautiful bit of writing. Your effort really shines.
Erik
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
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I have just read "The Writings of George Mallory" on climbing Mount Everest. He wrote beautifully of his effort to seek a route up Mount Everest. He was very aware of the dangers he faced in his 1924 attempt.
When I Goggled Mallory learn more about him I noticed an interesting fact.
George Mallory was born on June 18, 1886,
he died on Everest on June 8 or 9 on 1924
Warren Harding was born June 18, 1924, on George Mallory's birthday.
I find it interesting that Mallory and Harding shared the same birthday.
Warren Harding was born 10 or 11 days after Mallory died on Everest.
Kind of an interesting coincidence.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Dec 14, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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I missed this thread the first time around, thanks for the bump, its a great read.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Time to bump this thread again.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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I was looking for election results. Sorry.
Was Bill Dolt a Republican or a Democrat?
Was Batso a white wine man or a red wine man?
Stupid questions. Sorry again.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=636467&tn=0
"if it came in a bottle it was good to go..... Mountian Red I think was his fave."--Russ Walling
Ahwahnee Bartender
Big Wall climber
Fog Town
Jul 18, 2008 - 09:28am PT
I had the honor of being Warren's Wine Steward (heh, heh) at the Ahwahnee Hotel in 1977. No joke! I was a bartender for my first summer and worked in the dinning room as a wine steward for the next 5 years. Anyway, I believe the occasion was for Warren's birthday but I could be wrong - but it was some big celebration that Harding organized.
He reserved the alcove area in advance, that's the very back of the dinning room that looks directly at Yosemite Falls. The table was a giant 12 top with as many chairs as we could squeeze in and he had all the surrounding tables reserved as well. So around 8:30 PM, all these dirt bag climbers started filing in with loaner sport coats on.
When everybody was assembled I approached the table and went directly to Warren and asked if the table wanted to see the huge Ahwahnee wine list. "Nooooooooo" was his reply. Instead he ordered a number house carafes of red wine which was some rot gut we carried that was poured out of half gallon jugs back at the bar.
He keep me busy that night with many, many carafe refills. But I didn't mind as he was my hero back then. As the night drew on, the entire table was completely hammered by the time the dining room closed it's two large doors and we told folks that we were closing. Would anyone care to guess who was the very last person to leave?
Yep, 'ol Warren was finally persuaded to take the long walk down the dining room's red carpet at about 11:30. The mighty red wine had produced the desired effect, but Warren's stride was remarkable steady. Then I saw my chance to pull a sharpened RURP out of my pocket that I had been working on and asked him what he thought. "Show 'em to Porter" was all he said. Then he was gone.
Respect,
Theo
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1012503
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Really cool thread park rat, thanks for the stories
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