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jack herer

climber

Veneta, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2010 - 05:01pm PT

Matt M- Very true I had a fixed line hanging off an FA aid project at Smith (The Jim Anglin Memorial Route) for a while litterlly 100ft left of where this video was taken. Someone ass hole like this guy thought it would be funny to go and cut the bottom of the rope of so it would just blow in the wind (think Zenyatta FA story) anyways so it made it a pain to take down and so the rope hung there for a couple of months untill I could deal with it. Long story short I heard a lot of climbers bitching about the rope haning on the Picnic Lunch Wall while at the same time they where out there clipping fixed draws. Pretty f*#king funny IMO

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:04pm PT

Talk about staying cool.
I would have been tempted to tie the guy off on a fireman's break while I had a Picnic Lunch below.

joe boy

Trad climber

california

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:06pm PT

string him up.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:22pm PT

Thanks Jack, it's been some time since I was called a badass....HA!
Damn, it's a good day!

One funny thing is that the thief and his girlfriend look less like climbers than anyone I've seen in a long time. Even the way he handles the gear during the course of the video looks awkward and clumsy. Almost like he learned some basic functions just so he could carry out this task...
anybody else notice this "strangeness"?

billygoat

climber

Pees on beard to seek mates.

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:44pm PT

Kelly---that's what I was thinking!

Unbelievable what this guy did, and very impressively handled. I presume he gave up all the draws and left with his rat tail between his legs.

thetennisguy

Mountain climber

Yuba City, CA

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:54pm PT

You could tell from the video that this guy wasn't listening to a word being said (to the "lecture" he was getting) ... like he was going through the motions and kept racking gear while the lecture droned on and on and he "apologized" and played dumb.

Dudes like this are playing you ... your friends are way too nice. This guy either needed a good ol' fashioned ass kickin' or the cops needed to get involved ... or both (after the ass kickn').

Lecturing guys like this is a complete waste of time ... our prison system is full of them ... lectured to death ... word in one ear and out the other ... obfuscate, play dumb, pretend to listen; jokes on you ... he'll be out there doin' this again 'till someone stops him. And lectures don't stop them.

He'll be back ...

JLP

Social climber

The internet

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:55pm PT

Bitching about fixed draws pegs you as a noob and/or a 5.11 or less climber. Fixed draws are a part of the game mid 12 or so and up and have been for over 20 years. Save your [stupid] comments for the what to carry in your pack on a 2 pitch climb threads.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Dec 29, 2010 - 05:59pm PT

You're so high level 12 and in the know. I cower at the sight of your draws. Eat my butt out.

Bitching about how perma draws are so hip and part of the picture pegz you as a sport gym hardman. Save it for sportgym.com.

You'll never need to know what to put in your pack for a multi pitch climb because you'll be hanging on your one pitch project the rest of your life.

Edit: I was momentarily possessed by the spirit of Pate there...

Port

Trad climber

San Diego

Dec 29, 2010 - 06:16pm PT

Fixed draws are a part of the game mid 12 or so and up

I dont think this is true unless you're a gym rat or only climb at sport crags.

as a noob and/or a 5.11 or less climber

Is that supposed to be derogatory? 5.11 is a solid grade to be climbing at. Do you climb in the valley?

jstan

climber

Dec 29, 2010 - 06:45pm PT

First, legal title to Smith Rock is not held by a climber or climbers. It is held by the state of Oregon. So, has the management responsible for the area agreed that quick draws may be left hanging for extended periods of time? The site does ask that the fixed protection not be visible, which certainly makes fixed quick draws problematic.

A number of people do find extensive populations of fixed quick draws objectionable. The answer is clear. Those feeling their presence detracts from their enjoyment of the State Park need to urge the state to require their removal. Those who want them there need to advise the state accordingly.

Later on a parallel with visual degradation due to chalk is raised. Yup. Same problem. I have seen ads for equipment with a climber on rock all chalked up. One of these days I will remove the chalk with photoshop and post it.

Since chalk is everywhere we don't sense what it is doing to us.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Dec 29, 2010 - 08:02pm PT

Just wanted to show you the other side of the person.

I would LOVE to hear an explanation about that biz.

It's almost impossible to think he didn't know better, especially when you hear the severe tap-dancing on the vid.

splitclimber

climber

Sonoma County

Dec 29, 2010 - 08:22pm PT

great vid and they went way easy on him.

come on now, he knows better. he is stealing. "I'm aiding this climb" - give me a break.

Littering? get real folks. are we not climbers who can recognize the difference.

sorry Jack - even you just admitted to "littering". - leaving fixed ropes. I don't see the difference?

jack herer

climber

Veneta, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2010 - 08:29pm PT

I know I don't care I have no problem with any of that. It was during bad weather and it was a hard tenious new wave aid climb so we where seiging it. Then someone cut the bottom off wich made it a pain in the ass to get hence why it sat there a bit longer than I would have liked. I liked that rope, and wanted it back nows its a pointless 46m static rope.

splitclimber

climber

Sonoma County

Dec 29, 2010 - 08:31pm PT

completely legit ;). just pokin' ya a bit. we should take issue with someone taking gear, not someone leaving it for a short period of time, eh.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Dec 29, 2010 - 08:32pm PT

Littering? get real folks. are we not climbers who can recognize the difference.

Apparently not given how common it is. In the case of the climbs he was pulling draws from, they were being actively worked which is a different story. But leaving draws and ropes up ad infinitum? weak, and definitely littering.

Studly

Trad climber

Dec 29, 2010 - 08:38pm PT

Its not weak Joe. Its an accepted practice at Smith and accepted by the Rangers and land managers there. As Smith is a choss pile and bolts are required to climb almost everything. I used to climb at smith back in the day when most everything was trad, and all these bolted routes there are marvelous in my opinion. You can't see the fixed draws unless you are hiking the base of the crag anyway. its cool seeing all these sport routes going up these huge mudpiles where I never thought man would go. Seems like the fixed draws are only on some of the hard 5.12s and up, so its not like they are everywhere.

Seamstress

Trad climber

Yacolt, WA

Dec 29, 2010 - 08:42pm PT

JSTAN - you did see that Ian is a state park employee. I don't think he was rewarding the guy for cleaning up abandoned property.

We can think strategically about how we talk to public officials. On one hand we say that we can police ourselves and are a good bunch. That doesn't work if we take our battles to Big Brother.

So even though draws have sat for days (or longer) untouched and I don't like it, I value keeping our business to ourselves more than getting the draws ordered removed. Stealing is far more objectionable. I'm glad he was caught, and I'm glad his picture was posted. I have never had any trouble with my gear disappearing at Smith, but I'm not as casual given recent activity at the Park and Redpoint.

Studly, some of the draw lines are very colorful and very visible. Still it is better if they are visible while some climber is flailing away on the climb.

Studly

Trad climber

Dec 29, 2010 - 09:45pm PT

I guess you could see the draws from a distance IF YOU LOOKED THRU BINOCULARS. Who cares? the place is festooned with ropes, climbers, bolts on a constant basis in all daylight hours. It is its own special place, and so much the better now for climbers and fun then it used to be before the advent of bolting routes and hanging draws. I am not for this ethic hardly anywhere else, but it sure is the answer for a place like Smith.
I can honesty say that not one fixed draw at Smith has ever interfered with my experience there. I am not bad ass enough to even climb routes with fixed draws, so in reality they kind of piss me off, but for a different reason.... :)