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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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More Eiger Hexes.........
Rock on! Marty
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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Marty- Do you think that the big Eiger stamp and number came last chronologically?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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The Eiger heavy hexagon shape hexes were mfgd before the Chouinard 1971 A-symetrical hex shape copy. I believe that the Eiger hexes that just have a number and no MFG stamp were hexes created in the 1980s for other companies to distribute not under the Eiger name. Or Eiger had another manufacturer make them and then sold them under the Eiger name. This however is just a guess.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
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The original Hexentric stock was proprietary so those hexagonal nuts could have been made and sold until Eiger contracted with Chouinard Equipment.
Chouinard wouldn't have licensed the use until spring of 1973 at the earliest. Tom Frost doesn't recall much about the deal specifically beyond dismissing my suggestion that Eiger otherwise came upon a lot of original Hexentric stock.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
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Observing the two Eiger catalogs shown in this thread, the earlier catalog has Chouinard products for sale and the later (possibly 1969/70 catalog) has no Chouinard products even listed. Maybe Eiger and Chouinard wern't getting along at the time? I am not sure what patent laws there were in the late 1960s but Eiger could have just as well copied the 1971 Chouinard A-Symetrical extrusions. Chouinard changed their Hexentric design shortly after and probably didn't care that Eiger continued to sell them? Just a guess..
Example...The Canadian Camarads sold for many years even though Wild Country had a strong Patent on their Friend camming device. One country makes the product for another country to sell it to a third country.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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I bet that there was money to be made on a non-competitive product already set up for production. Eiger likely ran into difficulty using existing hexagonal stock because it was too heavy (past the size of the nuts you just posted).
It costs real money to have dies designed, made and set up for production.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
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Eiger Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
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The marking ambiguity even goes back into the original hexagonal nuts. I picked up a partial set recently.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 19, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Gotta love those Leeper "N"-shaped pitons in that Eiger catalog price list. I still have my Liberty ovals that I purchased as a youth . . . chalkbag and dog leash biners only.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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I'm not so sure that choices were simpler back then. I mean... how the hell do you decide between Austrian and Bavarian Lederhosen? And sh#t... all those hammers. I'd get all twisted up trying to decide either.
mal
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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But you know when the mallet arrives in the mail and you're drivin' iron...you made the right choice! LOL
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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Where was this thread a few days back when I got all hexcentimental?
Purty chockies, Steve.
drool...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 15, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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This pair of photos were taken near the end of an epic trip, and show the shaked down DORF in a rest stop in Merced on 140, that "bridge of sighs and fond goodbyes" for homeward-bound Yosemite travelers, the last decent view of the Yosemite for many, the "Bradley Overhead," so-called, crossing the Santa Fe which comes in from Planada. You've been there.
Recently it is being modernized and it's partly the UC's fault, but that's subject that's over my head and of local interest only. And yet Yosemite traffic will see the results in 2014.
Anyway, the friend we phoned from the rest stop, Jack Walter Meade, jetted over to jive with the Flames, being one of the originals in Merced. Muskrat and I had been to Eiger and taken a leisurely route back with the booty destined for Tuolumne Sporting Goods. Who here has done business with the Reverend and TSG?
Jacky got off his Triumph and we all gathered around the back end of the van, opened it for his viewing an let him feast his flat lander eyes on what the mountain men were up to this winter. It was February, 1971.
We didn't have as much gear by far as Jeff had intended to get and he says this is why, from the horse's mouth.
He got in with someone to show a purchase order and they took us to the warehouse and there was a staggering amount sf inventory at that time. And the man politely explained why it was not for sale. It was the custom to place your orders well in advance so that they could be imported, and this gear was largely spoken for. Well, Jeff was not put off, just accepted it as his due for being a n00b at buying wholesale. TSG was off to a rip-roaring start.
Sigh.
But he did score several hundreds worth of goodies, and this is what Jacky got to see. At least one set of new Bonna 2100s for Jeff's use. Maybe another set, I think some Bonna 2400s. Does that sound right? For the Silvrettas? Bindings, maybe a half dozen pins, a few sets of Silvrettas, some skins, WAX, WAX, and lots of extras, heating and scraping and corking tools, pine tar remover, ski tips, ice ax tips, and some skis for others who asked him to get them.
We had to visit Monterey on the way up, stopped in to visit Brother Don, got some blow so we could rap the night away with our old friend from the year we all lived in PG. My treat. Jeff sneezed it into the shag rug. We turned to Coors. Left for Berkeley next day, picked up Skeeter and his friendly lass along when visiting the North Face and Horton. We already had Mike Dwyer (with the Rev) who we picked up twixt Monterey and Berkeley. Monter. Berkel. Ey.
The last lap from here to Degnan's Dorms was done by DORF in a record* one hour and forty-five minutes, by my navigator's timepiece, including the load, myself, Jeff, our sh#t, the three passengers and their sh#t.
Six cylinders. Three speed on the column. Extra stringer in the body, a biggie that pre-dated the wider Chevy vans so vulgar and cheap they made a song up over it. Gack... Chevy...
And the Reverend never lies!
*I put this record in the shade several times, but never this fully-loaded.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 15, 2012 - 12:51am PT
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A further true story of a trip to Eiger on behalf of Curry Company, same vehicle, the brave and worthy DORF, my new bride Dolores riding shotgun. "Currrry, Babe, it's freezing in here." We started off this trip in virgin snow going up to the Wawona Tunnel, no chains, blissfully in command.
I am remembering right now.
Gosh, I think it was in January, the hemming and hawing of where in the hell to put the XC rental stock where it was best for the renters had ended. and the place had gone from the original building by the Village PO to the Lodge Gift Shop (if you can believe it), only to go back to square one a short time later. Dolores and I had a chance each day to visit at lunch in the caf on our meal tickets, and at our breaks. We had a room in the top floor of Tecoyah in the Village and used the window reefer to keep our food. Two single beds pushed together.
Idyllic.
So the trip continued with not problem, fortunately for the bliss factor, and the trip stopped short at the Grapevine for many hours of snooze. I was glad to have chosen the alpine start. "Our spot in the queue was real close to the head of the line, but behind some other guys."
We descended on Ike and Shari with all the glee imaginable between a recent bride and her "old married sister." Ike and I sat around burning the midnight oil and some of his stash, getting to know one another a lot better, thinking of possiblities for the future. Shari cooked up her famous enchiladas, too. Yet more bliss. We adjouned to the DORF in the Sideway Driveway. Yet MORE BLISS! And we had panny cakes for breakfast.
We got on the road, heading east on 118 from its intersection with 101 at what Ike and Shari called Okie Flats. Ike had lived there all his life and had a good gig installing well pumps with his pop, Ike Senior.
We got to Eiger, presented the purchase order, rolled the van to the doors and they got our stuff together. The route over the Grapevine was clear and we had no trouble with returning to the Valley, stopping in Bykersfield at one of the all-time eateries on the way through the San Jaoquin Valley. We fed and sped. Through fog, you betcha. As thick as frozen peanut butter. Nastier than the porn I bought to enliven things at Tecoyah. You know those little decks of playing cards sold out of a vending machine. These were accepted with less glee than I would have hoped.
Pulling in late-late, we parked the van, she and I got a few hours, she got dressed for work and I ran her to the Lodge, caught breakfast, and met Len Singer at the Curry Wsrehouse. We off-loaded and I reported to the shop and left Len to the receiving.
I got some remuneration after niggling with the c*#ks@ckers in charge who were set to stiff me until I showed them the gas receipts my ever-mindful money-trap lady had carefully saved. It was a whole twenty dollars. That was some cheap gas.
This is my Eiger winter story. I hope it takes you back to silent snow falls, trackless roads, happy endings.
This precious book was one of our daughter's very favorite as a four-year-old. I want to say a very big thank you to the Fossil who lately joined us, as he actually prompted these vignettes. See how he is?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Say mouse did y'all ever go by P O B 161 in Montrose? As near as I can tell it should have been right down Rosemont from me, but I never saw it.
Mail is handled differently in La Crescenta. For example, the local parks, Two Strike Park and Crescenta Vwalley Park, have their own mailboxes.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2015 - 08:21am PT
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Eiger Bump for the Nutstory Museum.
Have you added to your Eiger holdings beyond what is shown on this thread Maestro Pennequin?
I ask because I have a few to send your way along with the wired Acorn that you desire.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Ho… don’t be too generous with me Steve… but, please, find below what my modest Eiger collection was before that I posted the previous image that you mention here.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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I may have a spare Eiger hex not shown in the picture above. Would be happy to send your way Nutstory. Let me post a picture tomorrow to see if you would like it...
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