Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
|
|
Pud, what are we looking at there?
Corpse Wall aka Saddle Peak in the Santa Monica's
Rincon, what would you rate "ant line"?
That's just West of the Horse Flats pkg lot up the creek a 1/4 mile or so right?
Scary lead for me once ; )
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
Rincon, what would you rate "ant line"?
That's just West of the Horse Flats pkg lot up the creek a 1/4 mile or so right?
Scary lead for me once ; )
I'm thinking the book is correct with 11+...we were happy to have a toprope, since neither Guy or myself got it clean when we were there a few weeks ago. FWIW, it's rated 10d on RC.com, but 11c on MP. Nice lead!
I park at the upper area, about a 1/2/mile past the Horse Flats CG entrance, then approach from above, but since the fire, it's hard to find the right spot to leave the trail, lots of downed trees.
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
It's super easy to get to the TR wall at horse flats from the top way in. Park at roseneta saddle and then hike up the steep hill then it goes flat for a bit and then make a left just before you get to 2 boulders, one on both sides of the trail (someone posted a pic of the boulder on the right side like 10 comments back) Then just follow that trail and it will put you at the top of the TR wall.
It's a lot easier than starting at campsites 1,2,3 and hiking up and bush wacking.
And for sure 11+ that thing must be so wild to lead!
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
Hey spider I already posted 2 pics of the arroyo boulders. I just found them like a month ago, they are fun for being so close. Everytime Ive been there it's been covered with spiders, do you have anything to do with that?
Where's the Wildwood one in Burbank? Is it worth checking out after work one day or is it fenced off or on private land or something now?
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2011 - 12:19am PT
|
Spider, who put the anchor bolts on top of Wildwood Pebble? Seems the ground level has raised, sand washed down and settled at the base.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
|
|
Re: Wildwood pebble - Drive to the top of Wildwood Canyon Park, Burbank. Walk through the roundabout at the end and into the wash, go left about 100 ft. Can't miss it.
I've been meaning to take a picture and post it on MP with all the route names and stuff. Traverse all the way and it's almost 5.9. Zodiak 5.4 up the left center looks like a mini Zodiak with the big light gray diamond. The Prow 5.7 kinda overhanging on the right.
I started climbing there in 1988 when I found it. I'd go up there in the winter and coax the stream over to unbury the base of it. Just flip a rock here and there and added 2-3 ft to the overall height.
There were bolts when I first got there. Two. One on a cracking block on the summit and another one in a rock that was about 100 lbs and not attached to anything. I might have replaced one, I don't recall. I'll have to go back up there after work and take a picture. Check it out.
I lived in the neighborhood there for 15 years. I thought I'd, ya know, develop it, turn it into a big destination like Troy did with Williamson. Id' put out a guide, get rich from royalties. But I was too lazy and got bored with the whole "project."
EDIT: If anyone is planning to drive an hour to find a good boulder - think again, It's 10-12 ft tall and about 18 ft wide. Fractured gneiss, with a touch of poison oak.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
|
Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
|
|
A couple of cool, obscure boulders i've been to is the Norco Slab off of McKinley Ave. in Norco/Corona area. Also the San Dimas Canyon Boulder is good for a little burn.
How about the supposed 5.14 put up in Lower San Antonio Canyon?
Are there any routes on those red crags above Barrett Stoddard Truck Trail above the houses before the gate? (Not Barrett Canyon proper, I know that's a choss pile and i've got the scars to prove it)
I know of a 5.9 offwidth that was climbed in the late 60's by Gary Cifra & Keith Lehman in the Crystal Lake area. In the pics they used cut 2x4's as protection.....
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Locker's dream crack?
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
In my backyard.
TY
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
Spider, what's the story on the Old Zoo bouldering at Griffith Park?
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2011 - 09:07pm PT
|
Reilly,
Is that the crack down the hill at Pacifico?
If so, it's a fun little climb. Did a face clImb on a pyramid shaped face down the hill a little more. Fun stuff up there.
Is the road open to Pacifico?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Batrock,
Well, it is either up or down the hill depending. Pacifico, yes.
Don't know if the road is open to arsonists or others.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
|
|
Old Zoo at GP. Check it out. It's a major bouldering social scene just waiting to happen. Tons of V0-V1 on stucco. Bring a brush.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
Pacifico is still closed. I bet the Forest Circus was looking for an excuse to shut down the beautiful little campground on the summit, now they will say it's been damaged by the fire and they need 500 billion dollars to replace the benches and outhouses, but it's not in the budget, so it will be closed indefinately, sad, but probably true.
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
A beautiful 30' bouldering face on superb granite. The only problem is you've first got to get to the top of Ontario Peak...
On clear days, I can see it from my backyard.
|
|
TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
|
Yep, that's about the only San Gabriel peak with a pointy summit.
The landing though is manzanita and angled enough to discourage bouldering.
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
On the station fire map pacifico isn't in the closed area, but the road is and it's locked. I think the main reason it will be closed forever is because that's where the fireman killed themselves driving off the cliff.
And Rincon have you been to switzers since they reopened it? They built 2 crazy staircases there. They are made out of the trex artifical decking and probabbly cost several thousand each and are really unnessary. And nothing down there was burned!
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
And Rincon have you been to switzers since they reopened it? They built 2 crazy staircases there. They are made out of the trex artifical decking and probabbly cost several thousand each and are really unnessary. And nothing down there was burned!
Nope, haven't been down there for years. They build figgen stairs at Switzers, while all the hiking trails in Tujunga and on Strawberry Peak are being reclaimed by nature as the keep out signs stay up for another year there. Then when they lift the closure in 2012 the trails will be completely gone, and will need millions of dollars to repair...ugh.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!