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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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slick rock, crystal basin
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Ah, The Cherubim Dome. Amazing place, that.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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have you guys been to skyline slabs?
we got the sh#t workin down there like nobody's bidness,
sandstone is the only real slab.
why? because.
it has about 15.7 times the variations in holds that granite has.
you get up there, and you say, next hold: should i take the chicken head?
pinch the cranberry?
finger bang the ant hole?
reach into the bat cave?
mantle up the friction crack? .....
no wait, no good cracks in sand stone,
can i pull this post? i just made an ass out myself, is it too late to retract this dribble?
is it too late to load up some more Gush?
we think not, for we have seen the light, and it was black,
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50
climber
Stumptown
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...and Slab Daddy is a fine route indeed Tradster. Most of the pitches are as solid as the best pitches I've done on GPA and the 5.10 pitches are smeary slab, hardly any edging. The rock doesn't have the sandy ball-bearing stuff that can spoil a route. The only down side to Slab Daddy that takes away from the "ultimate" status, for me at least, is the huge ledges on the lower section. Its just not as cool as the GPA's small belay stances and "pinnacles". But it gets better up higher; its steeper and more exposed.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/978936/Who-s-yo-Daddy-Washington-s-New-Big-Wall-Slab
Other great slab routes that come to mind:
Silent Running
Grack Marginal
Ochre Fields
Hoppy's Favorite
Deep Throat
Scimitar
Table of Contents
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Moderate but super fun... Tenaya Peak
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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that slab daddy looks like a great adventure! Don't think I would bring the bivy stuff however. A good long summers day
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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A solo of the final slab on Royal Arches that gains the rim when covered with pine needles.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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This is a short one, but it is pretty hard.
I like slabs. I get to use 37 years of acquired edging skills.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Jan 13, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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Bump
Cause you gotta love those multi-pitch, runout, pucker fests.........
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Jan 13, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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"set the controls for the heart of the sun" across the road from calveras....
It should win for best name.
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Jan 13, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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All slabs are ultimately humbling, humiliating, or horrifying.
Sigh.
However, slabs make me a better climber, so I do them. Grudgingly.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jan 14, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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I drafted up a poem about MCatheralR north apron's "Cat Dancing" the other rainy day. Since it's on my office's pc, I've no choice but to leave you hanging suspended from some sun bleached and frayed slings until I can post it up like tomorrow.
GPA leads include Dead Babies and Ephemeral Clog Dance at my upper limit. Muchos grande following GPA Chiropodist's Shop, and saving Burk's life on his FA of The Token. Misty Beetoven 3x, including a trip up to the 4th or 5th stance w/Scott.
Followed the first of several pitches of Mother's Lament, Tightrope, led Hoppy's up to our previous high point, but still below Hoppy's Creed, or the real business pitches.
I led the 1st pitch of Middle Cathedral's Cat Dancing 5x before I finally finessed its 2nd pitch. I'll save my comments, such as they may be, for later.
Nice to have been led up both Quicksilver and Freewheeling in the same vicinity. Leading nearby Ramer, (or WTF) is great, but it is technically sport-pro'ed.
Onsight lead of the bottom half of Dream On, which is not too shabby when you take into account the runouts, the 1500 mile drive to Squeemish, and the fact that I had to troll for a partner (just don't let go of the Rope!) on my arrival.
To draw my chest beating to a welcome close, let me conclude by mentioning that I bought most of Russ McClean's pin rack at a local yard sale he'd conducted. Tired of being the builder, he, somewhat older than I, had put his course upon an architectural education, the required M.Arch degree, and, after an 8 year internship (including school), professional registration. At the time, I was aware of his FA Lucifer's to Oasis.
But, I didn't offer any career advice, but simply paid $20 for a milk crate full of mostly useless iron. With enough KB's and other thins to make it worthwhile financially - mostly I just wanted to meet Russ.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jan 14, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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I would say that the ultimate slab route has yet to be done and lies on the East Face of Mt. Watkins to the west of "Escape from Freedom" (VI 5.12c) that Urmas Franosch and I did back in 1988. Scott Burke did some exploring in that area back in 1987 and traversed out to the big water holes at the base of the huge face. It's certainly there, but no one has put a shoe on it in over 20 years. Logistics are a problem certainly, but talk about an epic slab route in the 5.13 range! Never seen anything that even comes close to the potential slab climb that exists in embryo out there.
Only trouble is that anyone who would do it nowadays would rap bolt it, rather than lead it ground up. But what the heck! Sure would be an amazing adventure no matter what way it was done. So, okay kids, get those 120+ lb packs ready and start hauling in water for a real epic siege!
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Jan 14, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jan 14, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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Again, not muddling through the therad, if you want a butt pucker, do Whitesides in N.C.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2017 - 10:47pm PT
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wet slab bump for the early season
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Apr 29, 2017 - 11:06pm PT
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Greasy But Groovy on the Arches Apron has a bit of a reputation. Some other, nearby routes are also notorious.
Ironically, the Great Slab Route on the Column doesn't even qualify for this topic.
The El Capitan Apron between the Dihedral and Aquarian Walls might just be the Ultimate Slab. Wings of Steel looked, to me, like it might go free. The steep slabby sections on New Dawn that Leo Houlding free climbed looked harder than what I saw on the first two or three pitches of Wings of Steel.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Apr 29, 2017 - 11:18pm PT
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Welcome to Courtright
Weeping Wall
King Smear
Little Baldy
Western Front
Moro Rock
Stonequest
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