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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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I got stormed on one night someplace around the molar. Got up in the night and put the flies on...gramicci ones...and slept through it. Everyone got flooded out in Camp 4 that night. Of course it was just a ton of rain and it was in June or something.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Whereas, Roger, the prior and first ascent was known as a "Big Hairy Audacious Goat".
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:38pm PT
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"In other very important news I saw squirrel eating an acorn ...."
Werner - was that a grey squirrel or one of those black ones?
Mr. Curious
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Gene
Social climber
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Nov 19, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
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View from Turtleback Dome, 2:43 pm local time
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Nov 19, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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Ah no worries Gene they still more than likely VFR to be able to base jump to the Meadow :)
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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Point-n-shoot photo from the base…
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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Sweet Dreams boys...
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Nov 20, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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Awesome.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Before leaving the ground, Tommy and I had redpointed pitches 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6. So basically, all the hard pitches had yet to be redpointed before going for our ground up push. This was super exciting on the go, because each successful pitch was a fresh, high-end, trad first ascent on El Cap!
How cool is that?
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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it's so cool it's bitchin' cool
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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god speed and "get er done"
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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after lunch bump
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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Mid afternoon nap bump
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Wayne Merry and I have exchanged a few catching-up notes recently. We both commented on the impossibility of getting our heads around the sort of climbing Tommy and Kevin are doing on El Cap. This was Wayne's take.
"Remember when you knew by reputation damn near everybody in the country who was able to get off the ground on a 5.9?"
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2010 - 11:00am PT
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I know. I think we they come back next season, it would be hugely recommended to just go up there too and watch them for the two weeks, you know. And with their approach to the ascent, they will be climbing the the lower pitches again too.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Unfortunately Kevin sprained the crap out of his ankle doing a major dyno a week or so ago on the project and now Tommy and Becca his wife and maybe also Tommy's Dad are giving a go at the whole route as we speak. Kevin is profoundly bummed as is Tommy, but the show must go on, surely.
see here: http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/
and: http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Oct 29, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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Curious, if the free the formally nailing sections of this hybrid route is it then off limits to any future aiding other than clean? Seems like it would have to be to preserve the now free climb. Comments?
I always try to climb clean, but Im not going to spare the pins on a nail up just because its been free climbed. The only reason aid climbs get freed is the nailing turns seams into fingerlocks. Trying to say "ok, thats just the right amount of nailing, stop now" just wont fly.
Theres alot more 5.10 climbers than 5.14 climbers, so bigger jams suit a greater portion of the climbing public anyway.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Oct 30, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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I find it funny that people divorce someone then remarry another that is similar in many ways.
A friend of mine went from a skinny hippie named mike, long hair, scraggly beard that looked like Jesus to get a boyfriend that well........ looks like Jesus.
Beth v Becca = LOL
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