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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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I could see how one could mistake Dean for Deuce....
I dig how they rocked it late/end of the season.
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Respect. I wouldn't be surprised if they pushed it faster.
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Stainless
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Looks like the El Cap report cashed it in a little early. F*#kin' A. Congrats, guys! Super impressive!
Got a call from Hans tonight. Impressed. Probably not yet ready to throw in the towel either, though he's not getting younger (adding to the challenge).
Next year = Good times.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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When I first saw this thread title, I thought it was some random numerology thing, like 10/10/10. I thought it was 2:34.56 or something.
So don't be surprised if somebody else posts a "New Nose Record!!111" thread.... :-)
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Awesome job doods! Sounds like a fun day.
I remember seeing Dean and Timmy doing the Nose in the time it took me to lead the golden finger of fate. I thought the folks in the meadow were cheering for me.
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Lithuanian
Trad climber
Reno
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I wonder if a big shot company would put $1M prize money for doing the Nose in sub 2 hours will it be ever accomplished?
People do crazy and totally unbelieved things when extra incentive is involved. Although, climbers would probably take too much of the risk and tragedy would be waiting to happen.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I believe that was Cosgrove with Walt. They started up the other side of El cap tower to do something over there and for some reason bailed onto the nose. Some technical, logistical or gear issue involved, in route switching.
Th colonel met them at the base of the East ledges Raps, with beers.
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Lithuanian
Trad climber
Reno
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Yeah, that's the point. If those guys putting these time just for fun, how fast they would go if they actually spend a good part of the year training just for Nose. If big $$$ would be at stake, I think we would see some interesting action on the Nose and speeds we can't even imagine in these days.
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Haw maaan... stop it with the $$$$ talk dude!
You're makin' me.... cringe
sheesh!
carry on...
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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awesome job. that is cruising.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
I've lost track...
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$$$$$ = lawyers = insurance companies = legislation
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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On timing: Hans and Yuji timed it with a stopwatch on Hans' harness. But there was always a large cheer when Yuji started and another loud cheer when Hans finished so other people were also timing them.
The Huber's beat the record at the time by a small amount, then came back and knocked some more time off.
Even if it's a 20 seconds they have the record. But it makes sense to run up it again while they have everything dialed and get the record as low as possible to try to make it harder to beat for the next team.
Hans and Yuji came back in the Fall to beat their own record from the early Summer because Yuji had a film crew from Japan. It must be nice to come from a country that actually appreciates world class rock climbing and you can make a good living as a pro climber.
Somehow I think neither of these two cares about the time in a global sense but are only in it for themselves and their personal bests.
Of course it must be a personal goal to climb the Nose that fast. You probably wouldn't do something so hard and risky unless the challenge was also it's own reward. But these guys had the record in mind. I'm sure they kept an eye on the time and were pushing as hard as they could on the last pitch, otherwise the times would not be so close and they wouldn't have bothered to time it down to the second.
Great stuff. It's great to see this aspect of climbing have so much activity in the last few years.
Hans is getting older but he's also managing Touchstone climbing gym now so he'll be able to train a lot more than before.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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i think that this twist of modern climbing, the "timed" acent is pretty cool.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The "timed" ascent is not really that modern - they were setting speed records on El Cap in the 1960s. Just the timing was in days and fractions of days.
As for taking higher risks to go faster, check out the entry on James' blog where he describes how Alex looked at some of the things Uli was doing and decided maybe this was not an acceptable level of risk:
"... Alex started watching Uli climbed, and realized how balls out Uli was going. Uli jumped between handjams, untied from the rope, mismanaged the gri gri while simul climbing, and generally went for it. Alex became concerned. ..."
http://jamesclucas.blogspot.com/2010/06/yosemite-notes.html
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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new Nose record, love it!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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"The Nose start is 498 yards exactly from the road ..."
I could never climb the thing after drinking that much beer.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Un-real. I just had a thought. If you had a five thousand foot superduperlight rope, threaded through rap rings on the summy, how long do you think it would take Yuji or Hans or these fools to burn a tope rope "lap"? Straight up climbing with a TR. One hour? Twenty five minutes? Twenty?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Alex became concerned
When the dude who free soloed Half Dome is concerned about your climbing maybe you ought to be a bit more careful!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I think the record for rope walking one of the rappel lines on El Cap was about 45 minutes. So a lap on TR could be somewhere from 1 hour to 2 hours.
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