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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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As always, reports lamenting the lack of trad boldness in the younger generation of climbers haver proved to be the mutterings of ol Geezers.
There's always some wild and talented hardmen out there (even if they look like video game champions!)
Peace
karl
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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The lack of over sized bulging muscles and ripped definition worthy of Olympians on these superstars is simply amazing. I just dont get it ... The head space is clearly where its at.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I don't know Pilgrims. Alex has a superb strength-to-weight ratio--- a really modern climber:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I've never climbed an armchair - is it harder than the regular chair traverse?
yeah, but only by two letter grades. hahaha :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Doesn't it depend on whether one does the sit down start?
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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It now seems strange that Croft/ Shultz were rebuffed on thier attempt(s).
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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awesome, cheers to Honn-bold
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Great shot, Walleye.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> "It's just like Snake Dike but more extreme."
haha, good one!
Not true, though.
Yes, it's *runout* like Snake Dike.
But you can't get lost on Snake Dike, once you get onto the Dike.
You can easily get off route on Southern Belle, since there are hardly any bolts to find and no big dike to follow.
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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I think this an awesome and proud send of a bold and beautiful line. Will and Alex get a lot if respect for stuff like this. But I would like to ask the question, does your view of the ascent change if you knew this team used fixed lines to mini-traxion and rehearse the upper pitches. Would that be against the rules considering the controversy next door and the aura of The South Face. Does this reduce the route to a lower level or is it equally proud send either way?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Rock + Ice has this now:
Alex Honnold and Will Stanhope made the third free ascent of Half Dome's notoriously run out Southern Belle (5.12d) yesterday (November 1). The pair had worked out the first five pitches the week before and then started at 5 a.m., going for the one-day send. According to James Lucas, who talked to the climbers, "On one pitch a knob that Honnold had slung came off as he climbed 10 feet above it on 5.10 terrain. He was looking at a 120-foot fall if he didn't make it to the next bolt." The climbers were so dehydrated when they topped out that they drank out of puddles on the summit.
Southern Belle consists of 14 pitches, four of which are 5.12, with six pitches of 5.11. The route was established (and almost freed) by Walt Shipley and Dave Schultz in 1987 and freed the next year by Schultz and Scott Cosgrove. Dean Potter and Leo Houlding made the second free ascent 18 years later in 2006.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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pretty impressive
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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does your view of the ascent change if you knew this team used fixed lines to mini-traxion and rehearse the upper pitches
I don't get it. I hadn't heard of someone doing this. Is this a hypothetical question? Sounds pretty specific.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The upper pitches, from about the fifth onward, apparently involve serious route-finding. Rehearsing them would remove a lot of the challenge. The first 4 - 5 pitches are mostly cracks, so whatever else, there aren't route-finding issues.
It's hypothetical, given that W & A only rehearsed the first five.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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MH, I'm not certain we know all the specifics of how long the team took to do the route and the methods involved.
I've also heard reports of MiniTraxion, so I'm wondering how much was onsight?
Still a super proud send.
And James, your OP is kinda odd--Stanhope fell on TR, but then had to wander through "unchalked" holds? Something's funhny there.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Stanhopes caption to the facebook picture states "First Attempt" dated Oct 28th, rephrasing that as a "rehearsal" is hardly fair. They had both the Cosgrove topo and the original Shipley/Schultz topo. Critics as yet do not have a claim made by the climbers to criticize. Its not an FFA it's a repeat of an existing line.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I don't think anybody is trying to criticize. You climb SB, that is proud.
Period.
As is natural, folks will be curious about the details of the ascent. I know I am.
Also, would love to see a copy of the original topo! CMac said he'd post it on the SB route page, but it ain't there!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Now that is cool, thx.
FWIW, I heard Stanhope took (& used) three sets of micros on the seam pitch. Frickin' Wild!!
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