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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Oct 25, 2010 - 09:46am PT
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I've had to work just to keep this thread, with historic photos, up front so that people like you get to see them- kind of frustrating.
Jim, don't be too frustrated, 70 posts isn't bad compared to how quickly some "regular fare" TR's disappear. Those regular fare tr's take just as much work to put together, and drop away terriby fast at times.
Just make sure to put your next one in the TR section first, it will show up in the main forum automatically.
Great great great!
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Gene
Social climber
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Oct 25, 2010 - 11:09am PT
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Jim,
Your pictures capture everyone's climbing fantasies. Much respect and admiration to you and your mates for the vision, guts and skill to turn dreams into reality. Fantastic stuff. Please keep sharing with us.
Gene
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 25, 2010 - 11:10am PT
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i wonder where you got the information like how to get there etc in 1978, ie pre internet?
This comment makes me laugh and feel old at the same time.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Oct 25, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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Wow! Wow! My palms as sweating looking at those hanging cornices. What a picture. You dudes had some serious stones. The remarkable part is that you all survived so many adventures like this when so many other great mountaineers have not in similar circumstances.
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charlie.elverson
Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
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Oct 25, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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I remember reading a piece in rock and ice, by Michael Kennedy, I think, about this climb. It was one of the best pieces I've ever read in a climbing magazine.
I love seeing these pictures from such a historic climb. Seeing photographs from it is incredibly inspiring. Thank you so much for posting them Donini!
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
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Amazing photos! I'd like to hear more about that narrow bivy on the ridge. Great that you are posting these, Donini!!!
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dirt claud
Sport climber
san diego,ca
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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Thanks for the post, nice picks
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 25, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
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Freerider, didn't you recently do a traverse with Jim? He'd be the best one to answer this question.
Anyway, it's true, back in the dark ages we didn't have access to information like you do nowadays. People would bring back grainy black and white photos of amazing things they'd seen and then climbers would start asking around the community, talking to everyone they knew. If you were lucky, you might actually get in contact with someone who had seen the peak in question. It was often a real leap of faith to mount an expedition to these far-off places with little real hard info.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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I want the one of Donini in the ice coffin for my garage. Like 3 foot by six foot on canvas.
I JUST re-read the Rock and Ice article last night on this and was re-blown away. Anybody got that one in print, the recent one about unclimbed giants? I've got it at home but a pic would be nice. Its a great cover and a killer article.
Jim, a total inspiration.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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A great thread to be sure.
Thanks for posting!
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Donini, there are clearly many who would love to hear more about this "most sucessful near-ascent" in Himalyan history. The climb you guys did is the style that today's cutting edge young bucks aspire to, all these years later.
And by the way, why not call your "near-ascent" a "post-modern" ascent. The marketing would be easier. :-)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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^^^ I've always said they did the route - just didn't tap the top - NBD.
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Oct 25, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
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Seems kind of like the alpine version of Shakelton's expedition.
I just read about the Huber's, Gutsch, Anker trip up Latok II. Doesn't Conrad post here? It would be cool to see him post about his experience in the area. It might give some perspective about their earlier ordeal.
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HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
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Oct 25, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
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A rope on a ledge that size, you have got to be kidding- besides, there's no place for a blue camalot. Sure there is. Bury it in the snow and have everyone piss on it to melt and refreeze the snow. Bomber.
Committing and strenuous to get the gear across. We now felt fully engaged. classic understatement.
"We now felt fully engaged" should go down in the annals of climbing.
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Oct 25, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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Thanks for all the work.
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Gene
Social climber
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Oct 25, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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How is Jello doing anyway? Hasn't posted in a while.
g
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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Oct 25, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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I can't get enough of these images Mr. Donini, I keep going back to them!
Thanks for posting.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 25, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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Bump-a-lump.
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onarunning
Trad climber
Duluth, MN
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Oct 26, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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Back to the top!
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