Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
|
|
okay, I see the difference in terminology now. Next time i'll be sure to differentiate placed and hand-placed next time i TR about something like a pecker or baby angle or something like that. Thanks for the heads up Mucci. (not sarcasm)
yeah. I think I posted this earlier. But i def am of the mindset that if it goes clean, then the hammer stays in the bag.
though I do have a question though (just realized this)
if on a route where it goes clean, but on fixed gear, how can one find out what gear is expected to be fixed? Mostly I ask this because I'm not sure how to proceed when on a route that says fixed gear on a section and I can't figure a way through that section. I will normally assume that I'm just not seeing a clean move but if it does require some fixed gear that is missing and thus requires a hammer to come out, how does one know before hand what to specifically expect to be there.(especially on pitches where the topo says "tons of fixed gear")
I assume the initial answer is "you learn to figure it out with time" but many of the "easier" trade routes such as those on Washington Column or Leaning Tower might present this issue to someone that is early on and thus has yet to have that experience.
|
|
Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
|
|
I was out of town so I missed the update, glad you guys had a good learning experience.
Big Wall Lesson #6: Back clean as you go on a bolt ladder. Only need to clip like every third bolt.
Big Wall Lesson #7: Don't count on fixed gear being there. A missing head or 2 could turn a C2 section into A3!
Big Wall Lesson #8: Learn how to tag. The belayer could have tied some heads and a hammer (or whatever was needed)to the haul line, leader pulls it up, and you could have continued on.
More lessons in there too I'm sure, but at least you guys have the right attitude. Stick with it and you will send.
Edit: Big Wall Lesson #9: After a fall (or being lowered), jugging back up the lead line is way easier that what you did! Hahaha! (sorry, that one made me laugh)
If you didn't have jugs with you on lead, See Lesson #8!
|
|
Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
|
|
Oh yeah, the Big Wall Lesson you didn't get to learn yet:
Hammocks SUCK!
There are probably some people here who would be willing to loan you a double ledge..(I would consider it myself),
but you don't need one for the West Face.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
> We wanted something that we could play about with iron and hooking and heading instead of clean aid so that we could piece together all of the things that we had practiced over the summer.
I think you were trying to learn too many things at once.
Better to:
1. Learn how to aid a full length pitch. Learn about partial backcleaning on the way up, and how much gear/biners/draws you need to bring with you on lead. You started to learn this on p1 of Leaning Tower West Face.
2. Practice hooking on a friendlier pitch than Roulette, where if something goes wrong you do not die. I would recommend the first pitch of Mescalito.
3. Do a multipitch clean aid route. Learn mechanics of following, hauling etc. Get fast enough so that you can climb 4 or more full pitches of aid each day.
4. Do El Cap.
5. Then, if you still want to learn more destructive techniques like nailing and placing heads, go ahead. At this point you will not be trying to learn everything at once.
Analogy: if you want to learn face climbing on knobs, start on something reasonably well protected like Cryin' Time Again, or East Cottage Dome. Don't start out on the Bachar-Yerian, because if something goes wrong, you deck/die. Same thing with Roulette. The hard aid ratings these days like A4 are not really about difficulty of getting something to hold your body weight. They are really more like R and X - you don't dare fall. Learn techniques in situations where you can survive a fall, like you did on that toprope by Church Bowl Tree.
|
|
billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
|
|
Lambone has given you guys some good advice, Clint just gave you some excellent advice. I hope you both take it to heart. There's been a number of posts on this thread that you could run with and end up suffering some serious consequences. I can imagine, being novices, it's hard to decipher who to listen to and easy to go with what you want to hear. Ignore the folks who tell you just to go for it, take caution from those of us you give you sarcastic warnings, and head the wisdom of those who have the credentials. You will more than likely walk away with your lives if you do.
|
|
j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
|
|
This last page of posts is the reason why I love ST so much. Beneath the crusty surface is a bunch of guys with experience that care about everyone else in the community getting that same experience without breaking bones or the rock.
I'm liking the view from the bottom of the ladder (hahah pun! get it! get it?... hahaha..ha..he heh. eh... ahem.) after being knock down a peg or seven.
We've decided to do Wyoming Sheep Ranch next. j/k ;-P But in actuality, we're thinking of doing the first 4 pitches of the nose and then coming down followed by East Buttress (free of course) to figure out the east ledges descent.
|
|
Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
|
|
The Nose might not be the best choice of routes to practice on because of the crowds it sees, depends on the traffic.
P1 of the NA and PO are good practice. First pitches of the Muir are ussually uncrowded and easy to bail from.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
Listen to Clint on this one. Plenty of time to learn to climb right. No hurry to go up and get hurt.
|
|
saghi
Trad climber
Muskogee, OK
|
|
Hey J-Tree! Remember me, Shaggy? I don't post here. Only lurk.
Nice story. The beginning of The Nose would be great practice. Be mindful of the crowds, though. They get pissy if you're slow/learning.
I would recommend SFWC before The Nose. I bailed at sickle due to two straight days of rain my first try. I did SFWC before I got back on the nose and the difference was night and day. Working out the kinks on SFWC was very good for me.
Hope you are well!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!