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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Nov 29, 2005 - 08:21pm PT
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i've briefly met the guy, seems very nice. he went out of his way to give me some good encouragement, and then a little beta when i asked for it.
people should be worried about what they are climbing, not what other people are climbing. if the guy had photographic evidence of every exploit, people would say that he was climbing for the camera, rather than "climbing for himself". granted he has a website, but he doesn't solicit you to go read it, that's your choice.
i don't really buy the idea that people question him out of "jealousy", but i think his climbing clearly disturbs some people's comfort zone or their own reality in some way, and in response they do seem to lash out, almost defensively.
take for example, mr. BG, who wrote:
I will say, though, that I find the accomplishments of the hard sport climbers and boulders quite impressive. But not nearly as impressive as what takes place in the backcountry. And I find the stories of the alpine environment much more varied and adventurous. I happen to be really good friends with Chris Sharma, and watching him climb is sweet.
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I don't have any problem with Reardon and his solos. And I won't have any problem when he dies from the way he solos. The problem I have is that he has to show off while on that kind of path. Putting women's panties and barbie dolls (was it?) in Sierra summit registers while soloing the Palisades traverse in a cotton t-shirt and blue jeans (something like that, at least)??? What the fu-ck? He's burly for not dying for that kind of stunt, but he's also proving that he's gonna kill himself unless he changes his approach. I wish he would shut the hell up and do it already. That way we can leave room in the mags for the climbers with a life wish.
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No, not a contradiction. The kind of respect I have for sh#t going down in the backcountry is for stuff which is in and of itself amazing. I find leaving panties and ninja turtles in summit registers and showing up at the trailhead in a halucinatory state more pathetic than amazing. People who push their limits with ample experience and training behind them is awesome. But when I read the about the Reardon Palisade traverse I thought two things: he's a lucky SOB for getting away with that, and he sounds like a sport climber who got lucky. Now, without knowing the dude, he might be neither. However, that's the kind of impression he made on me.
ok, so based upon the logic you have demonstrated above, i can safely determine that you are some east-side bishop based sharma groupie that is just bitter about a celebrity climber that is not your buddy getting all the press, is that right? because apparently i don't need to know you personally, or even know any of your friends, to form a legit opinion of you, how you climb, what you stand for, and what you are thinking or what you are capable of...
and by the way, i have (many times in fact) felt great at the end of a climb, and then been near collapse from fatigue upon reaching the car. it has nothing at all to do w/ my competence or my climbing, it generally means i had a long day and i need a cold one.
as far as your wanking about what this guy (or anyone else) climbs, what the f*#k is it to you either way? he is not obligated to please you, and it's pretty disturbing that you would openly hope for something horrible to happen to anyone that has not wronged you in any way- maybe your pal chris can explain the concept of karma to you? i'd suggest that you get on w/ your life and go climbing, and avoid all future opportunities to chime in that "you hope so-and-so just dies sooner than later".
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
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Free Acopa shoes for life. I'd rather have the 10G
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 30, 2005 - 12:20am PT
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I was the one with dave that day at Tahquitz, when we met Mike. I heard him say everything dave is claiming. You know, Reardon seems like a nice enough guy, but man the spray comming out of his mouth was a bit HEAVY! specially for just meeting the gent. Was it true or false? I will not pass judgment, but Reardon's claims are what he said, just as dave described. I have no doubt that Mike climbs at a high standard. If you climb for yourself as he claims, then your actions will speak much louder than your spray. Word get's around in our tribe of climbers without the need of having to justify yourself. If Reardon continues to climb like he claims he does, we will know with no doubt if he is what he says he is. I personally would like to see that he is what he claims.
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thesiger
Trad climber
A desert kingdom
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Nov 30, 2005 - 01:22am PT
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"The point of my original post, which no one here except WBraun and Thesiger address, is that he claimed to onsight solo the Brits "headpoint" routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak. "
I am certain that's BS. If he'd done that it would have been sprayed and analysed to death on the Brit forums like UKClimbing by now .. which it hasn't. And assuming he's talking about the gritstone stuff: these are some the most overcrowded crags on earth - you couldn't just show up, do all the hardest stuff around and wander off without someone seeing you.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 30, 2005 - 02:29am PT
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Matt--
Wow dude, you're way the fu-ck off base with you're interpretation of what I wrote.
"so based upon the logic you have demonstrated above, i can safely determine that you are some east-side bishop based sharma groupie that is just bitter about a celebrity climber that is not your buddy getting all the press, is that right?"
Ah, no. No. And no. I've been friends with Chris for twelve years. I was the first person to ever take him climbing outside. I don't live on the east side. And I'm certainly not a groupie. Perhaps you should read everything I wrote. I said watching him climb is sweet, but I'm MORE IMPRESSED by what goes on in the backcountry. As in, alpine style. Got it?
"apparently i don't need to know you personally, or even know any of your friends, to form a legit opinion of you"
I don't know what you mean by "legit opinion" as an opinion is an opinion and nothing more. But I wonder: is there not a single public figure who you don't know that you don't have a negative opinion of. Take any one of a thousand politicians. I bet there's one you don't have very much respect for. Or how about an actor you don't like?
"and it's pretty disturbing that you would openly hope for something horrible to happen to anyone that has not wronged you in any way"
No. Again, no. What I'm saying is that his death would not matter much to me, because I don't have much respect for the way he goes about his soloing. I dislike his flamboyant style. I do not wish death upon him in anyway. I would rather see him change his style, sure, and if he doesn't and he dies I'm not going to miss him very much. I can see how you might find this harsh, but please don't put words in my mouth. I understand that my original post was a bit misleading, but I think I've said more than enough to clear this up.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Nov 30, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
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Locker, great metaphor!
Makes you think about the guys who got out of the store without paying for something.
I call for more security dammit!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 30, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
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"He onsight soloed the Brits "headpoint" routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak." bahahahahahah ;)
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:03pm PT
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Sometimes as Im walking from one route to the next I will strike up a little conversation with other climbers I see, just to be friendly and not to seem like an arrogant prick. I might even ask, how was that route? Then sometime in the future I might do said route, or not.
How weird would it be to see that encounter all detailed months lator here on ST???
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:18pm PT
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Juan, My Dad teaches math at LBSU (he just retired too). Hey Breedlove, is that the real Breedlove (old school C4 badass I knew)? Good to hear from you. My shoes won't help you but they're sure comfortable. Good to see you're still crankin'. Hey Watusi! What's up with these cats anyway? All kinds of hatin' going on and sh#t. Still playin' the bass?
About the shoe thing - I'll buy you whatever kind of shoes you want - don't have to be Acopas. I'll watch as you keep up with Reardon! This will be good. See you guys at the crags. Peace, jb
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Northern Mexico
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
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What does he teach?
It might be Bachar? Might be Lois?
Juan
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:39pm PT
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Raj, you aren't really suggesting that Jeff Batten = John Bachar, are you?
Wait, I get it avatars, right? JB=JB=LB. Ok. Well just to be sure, is bachar male or female?
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:41pm PT
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Locker,
yeah, well said.
Dingus,
thanks for the reality check.
Bachar,
I suppose I shouldn't try to speak for everyone, but it's not a hate thing. I'm just bummed that I'm not climbing...so when I'm stuck in town typing BS on a computer I like my opinion to be animated and pissy. That's all. I don't hate yer boy Reardon, just couldn't care less. Well, that's not true. The dude cranks, and that's rad. So in a minor way one's gotta respect that. Could ya convince him to stop leaving ninja turtles in the backcountry? Then I'll build a shrine in my bedroom and light candles for him every waking hour.
--Bill with the foul smelling beard.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:43pm PT
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For what it's worth, I say it's Bachar. Check out the new Reardon article in R&I. Bachar is quoted word for word what he's said on this site. Could be a copycat, but what's the point in that.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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That would have been nice, maybe next time. Hows your boy?
I could be wrong but the comment on the brits, could have been a joke.
& I think if someone inquires about a route, then doesnt immediately do that route, well obviously that someone is a liar and cant be trusted about anything, & should be banned from climbing.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Dave, I dont say/spray unless asked, and not to straingers. But sometimes I slip up.
Maybe your mutual friend asked? Whatever, I dont know.
What I think is, it must be tough having to worry if every thing I said, at the craig to some "cool" guys I met, will be reported next season on ST. It must suck having everything I did or said looked at as if it were a lie. I would think it would feel like being stabbed in the back by thoes "cool" guys. If you were the one everyone was talking about, hating on, how would you feel?
Wes
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Peace
See you on the rocks.
Wes
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Lurking Fear
Trad climber
Bishop, California
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I don't know if this means much, but I've climbed Romantic Warrior with Peter, and I can say I was a little nervous belaying on a couple of the pitches. The climbing is fairly low angle, which means it's pretty tenuous. If MR climbed that route onsight, I'm personally very impressed. It's hard to fathom the ability of some climbers, but watching Peter climb the route with a rope, it's hard to imagine somebody walking up and soloing it. Of course, it's hard to imagine somebody soloing Astroman.
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Stainless
Social climber
LA, CA
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Dec 15, 2005 - 03:39pm PT
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Has Karl Rove been at work here? The buzz word on this thread, "jealous", seems a bit off to me. In a way it feels like it's planted and has gained momentum from reactionary thought, like "flip floper". Do you guys really think people are jealous of Reardon's exploits? Jealously comes, in general, from someone having something you want. Do you think all of those people crying foul are jealous that he ticked these things before they had a chance? I mean, I'm certainly by no means in on all the gossip in the climbing world but you don't hear many people saying "this summer I'm planning on soloing Romantic Warrior and the Pali Traverse" and then, "damn that guy, he stole my projects!". Zero, in fact, by my account. C'mon!
Reardon has a clear lack of proof for his exploits, leaving no doubt for them to be called into question. Most of them from his own doing, seemingly on purpose. A guy who cared about his exploits, you think, would go to some lengths to cover himself. For example, he'd have to be living in a cave not to realize his Palisades ascent would be scrutinized. Yet he "purposefully" leaves no evidence that can be traced, instead depositing a trail of panties that "blow away" and "hiding" vagisil or whatever. These are the actions of a man who doesn't care what others think of him.
The conundrum is the fact that he seems to care. He tells people that he doesn't, yet he does interviews with mags and reportedly sprays about his exploits to strangers at every opportunity (at least according to this thread and climbers we meet around from time to time), not to mentio runs his own web site. These are not isolated or inobvious incidents. All of this is well documented. He must care, at least to some degree.
So those of us interested in climbing history, like myself, have no option but to question. We have not been given one. It has nothing to do with "jealously" or any other personal attack on Michael Reardon. It's simply a matter of wanting to know what's been done in a sport we are passionate about.
I want to believe these exploits are true. I love it when people push themselves like Mike is doing (there seems to be no question to this aspect, he's definitely out there doing something). But the evidence at hand leaves me no choice but to question.
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426
Sport climber
Roun' Chatt
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Dec 15, 2005 - 05:01pm PT
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Croft describes how he tried the boulder problem three times. Makes sense why Dean was hesitant...
Anyone should be a little wary of 3rd classin' the Astro, but I'm curious where you got this?
IIRC there was a flap 'cuz Mr. Potter went right (the face var., 11a-ish) rather than the BP way.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 15, 2005 - 09:37pm PT
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Stainless, nail on the head.
Did Houdini have a trick, or didn't he.
You want to believe he could pull that stuff,
but somewhere you wonder.
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