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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Aug 13, 2010 - 02:07pm PT
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This has to be my vote for the best single pitch route in Tuolumne, the other ten are at the Private Property Wall.
Yo Kenny where is "Phat Slice" I want some of that
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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Some other guy????
that is the Waughzoo!
you want a tick list for the meadows? just drop by the Waugh establishment/campground, wayfaring or lost climber feeding station, and ask Mike. he's way over 50, but he will still make you feel weak.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 13, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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Ed, none of those people on Blues Riff is the Wazoo. Waugh is still pretty damn thin and looks way stronger than those dudes. Besides, he almost never ties into a rope anymore.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 13, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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Awesome Lucho! Way to nail it James!
I want some of THAT...
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Aug 13, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
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Snowhazed,
Just to agree, Goldfinger sure seemed 12 to me and so to a different thread. Agree too on place of crux and issue of getting pro as adding to difficulty. But what a lovely line...
Important thing in Meadows, as you and all know, is not just line you are on but the place you are in. Did you notice, for instance, on way to Blues the twisted trees, as if a Japanese Bonsai gardener was working secretly there?
Pratt once said they did a lot of climbing in the desert before they saw the desert. How true and important.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 24, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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Seams like the season for the meadows, so how about a bump.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Aug 25, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Another vote for Blues Riff - yeah baby!
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Aug 25, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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Details on that Simba Love thing.Please.
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 25, 2011 - 05:05pm PT
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Blues Riff is one of the best 11's in the World, not just Tuolumne.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Aug 29, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
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Where is the Private property Wall?
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Nov 30, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
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Bump since Tioga is open!
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mctwisted
Social climber
paradise
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Nov 30, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Nov 30, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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I love Speed of Life, but I don't think of it as Tuolomne. The rock is so different. And the setting as well. Same with Dana 3rd.
I'll go with Blue's Riff for best 11 thin crack, Death for best wide and BY for best face. Can't compare apples and oranges and bananas.
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TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 28, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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Come on, the 11 on blues riff is literally one move...the rest is 5.10 hero climbing.
Very good climb....yes. Best 11 in Tuolumne...nope
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Jun 28, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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Cragman,
Mr. Kamps needs a grain of caution, though fine route. There is a bit of 5.11 run on it, maybe 15-20 feet out.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jun 28, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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I did the Scorpion last week. That is a DANG good climb!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jun 28, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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Did the first pitch on Blues Riff ever get redone after that block fell off?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 12:09am PT
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I don't know the best, but I know one I thought sucked ( lots of loose little stuff )" Bushes and Buckets".
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jul 25, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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Lori and I were poking around trying to find the Cottage Domes and came upon two ladies at the Orange Plasma. One led it perfectly, pulled the rope down and the other also led it perfectly. A very pretty route.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Matt,
I think 10d is a very interesting rating. And I think it has more to do with the ratings place in a timeline in history. Most if not all of the FA parties I talked to who put up climbs in the 70's in particular said that they were hesitant to call anything 5.11 for a while and many harder climbs were rated 10d not because of sandbagging but because they were reluctant to push the rating. 5.11 seems to be a landmark rating in the history of American climbing. For these reasons, if a climb from the 70's is rated 5.10d, I defer particular attention because some of the more scary and seroius routes I've been on have been 5.10d.
I like "curve like her" on the shark. Beautiful setting on good rock and at 5.9, is doable by most.
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