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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
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Yall makin me feel good about my onsight of this climb (all 3 pitches). Then while I was there surfer bob shows up and solos it 8 or 9 times in a row. Amazing.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 17, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
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Then while I was there surfer bob shows up and solos it 8 or 9 times in a row. Amazing.
Why would you do that??? Really.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2010 - 12:15am PT
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I'll definitely start practicing hanging off da bones more. I like the palming the rock and being at one with the rock mantra. Blue you'd like the route. I'm not leading it tho.
I'm still waiting for the full Werner boombox story. Seriously how do you climb with a big boombox in one hand up that thing?
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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Seriously how do you climb with a big boombox in one hand up that thing?
It's a secret bird trick that requires many years in the business.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:23am PT
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So Mason, old chap, I'm guessing that you wore your usual shoes on Reed's? Slippers, or something about as flimsy? And you had awful sore tootsie-wootsies for most of the climb?
Guess what? A pair of moderately stiff board-lasted shoes will help. Sure, some climb wide cracks in slippers, but they're few and far between. For anything hand sized and up, it's best to use rock shoes with some support. They may not be quite as sensitive - but that's the point. Slippers are for Cinderella, and when you want to be sensitive and new-aged.
Acopa makes some good all-round shoes which should help.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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And you WILL Lead it, Mason.
Just not today. Give it Time.
All good. It's not a sandbag. When you lead it, you will agree.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 18, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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Well put captain.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jun 18, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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that pitch kicked my ass...should have done it when I was younger
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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Anders, I was wearing the Acopa legends, hence the problems with toe jamming on the start of the first pitch. I kept getting my foot stuck on the second pitch...what a pain in the ass!
Cappy, I believe you, actually no, not sure bc it was pretty hard.
Werner, I googled secret bird trick and got nothing but tricks for parrots so I'm ready for some tutelage (punishment?).
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jun 18, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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No single move is that hard but it's steep and sustained. I got pumped. If you know to reach in for that bomber jam at the crux, that move isn't that bad. I thought p2 on Reed's was much harder than p1 on Outer Limits.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 18, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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I wonder what route in the Valley is the biggest sandbag?
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
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Jun 18, 2010 - 01:54am PT
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After six. Haha!
Or maybe Yosemite Point Butress Direct.
Best choss climbing in the Valley.
Though that Column route, hmmmmmm.
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Chief
climber
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Jun 18, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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OK, right after the Orangutan Arch I'd nominate the Harding Slot at 5.9 or whatever it is.
Horrendous every time!
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Jun 18, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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I thought the 1st 2 pitches, both 5.9, of the Central Pillar of Frenzy were much harder than either of the 1st pitches of Reeds Direct.
When I climbed Reeds Direct (~1980) Werner came free soloing thru making it look about 3.0. He swung from side to side to perfectly torque his jams in.
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Al_T.Tude
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Jun 18, 2010 - 02:20am PT
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After Six
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jun 18, 2010 - 03:30am PT
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I know most people on this thread are going to laugh... but the biggest sandbag in the Valley, the one that lures the most unsuspecting climbers based on its easy rating (the approach is practically in the parking lot) particularly beginners is over by Church Bowl and it's called "Uncle Fanny." It's only 5.6 but on a good day it spits out lots of folks who thought they were a whole lot more accomplished.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
not very much, recently.
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Jun 18, 2010 - 03:44am PT
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Ha! Years ago on a weekend when I was doing my first leads ever pretty much anywhere (Pine Line, first pitch of Jam Crack), I was feeling pretty good about myself after completing those two just fine. So I thought, let's do something easy that's a mulit-pitch (in theory... Ha ha!). So why not Aunt Fanny's Pantry? Well, I got confused about the routes, and ended up somehow on Uncle Fanny. I was freaking' out and didn't have gear for it or didn't know how to place well what I had. So I launched off to the right and let the face for about 15 or so feet. I wasn't a great face climber at the time (still ain't... maybe I'm the anti-gym climber?) but it felt better than what I was facing on Uncle. That 15 feet or so of face felt like ten miles, but I eventually reached a solid hold beneath some tree which I then belayed off of. After that, still felt pretty good about myself!
Ah, the adventures of the clueless!
Eric
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jun 18, 2010 - 04:14am PT
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Mason-
The advice given by another poster here regards using a stiffer shoe is good--it allows a much more secure and relaxed foot jam for a standing rest than a softer shoe.
I have 2 pairs of La Sportiva Mariachers that I get resoled. They're no longer made, but I firmly believe they were the all-time "best shoe" I have ever used. Especially for wider cracks. The toes were pretty tapered as well. The closest thing now is the TC Pro. Try a pair of those for fit--they are a wierd shape and some folks can't get them to fit. They do have the stiffness that is needed for fist-sized cracks (and larger--OW).
Re: "Uncle Fanny": it's pretty much on the mark to call it a sandbag at 5.6 or 5.7. I recall that I too did the lieback off to the right on my first go-round.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 18, 2010 - 05:21am PT
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I thought P2 Reeds Direct is the gold standard, not sandbagged but sustained. That said, first time on it I was happy to be following.
For me, most sandbagged = all 5.9 slab climbs! Just goes to show it's all about technique and experience/practice with the type of climbing.
I did P1 (5.8) of Quicksilver assuming it was easy approach to the bolted face above, and so I had a tiny rack. That pitch aged me. I haven't been back to try the higher pitches where the business begins. I'll be back with the right mindset at some point.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jun 18, 2010 - 06:24am PT
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"Hanging off your bones" is great advice. Maybe that is why I'm much better in cracks than face climbing, since I'm such a weakling! I think the 2nd pitch of Reeds is 5.9 as well, as long as your crack technique is good.
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