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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 15, 2005 - 08:33pm PT
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Concur re. Sean.
Where you climbing?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
NOT FOR LOAN™ CC3
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Nov 15, 2005 - 08:49pm PT
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ummm... Ok Pete... yeah that's what Walt told me.
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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Nov 15, 2005 - 09:47pm PT
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Tucker Tech has done Pacemaker. Not sure if it was the 2nd though.
Did sean really push his route higher? That's cool if he did. Did he find a partner?
Interesting character that sean. Asks everyone walking along the base if they want to join him on the seahorse. Maybe he finally decided to take matters into his own hands. Super friendly guy.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 15, 2005 - 11:09pm PT
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I watched Sean pushing his route higher for three consecutive weekends. He would jug up on Saturday, then rap off, then jug up again on Sunday. We're talking like eight pitches up! Why the hell he didn't establish a mini-camp with food and water and stuff is beyond me. I have no idea what he has climbed or how. Dave Turner told me over the radio the route consists mostly of chiselled heads and 3/8" bolts! But you'll have to ask someone who knows.
Helluva nice guy. But he doesn't get it. He told me and Cybele he had several hundred dollars of cash stolen from the base. Rather than take it the dough up the wall with him, he had instead put it in a little bag, and had hung it on a flake perhaps eight feet off the deck. I noticed the bag there, and wondered what it was.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 16, 2005 - 12:05am PT
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That's called jacking, klaus.
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Burt
climber
Sin City
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Nov 16, 2005 - 12:15am PT
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I don't think that is jacking, just the truth. Those pitches were f*#ked, and very proud IMO. Did Lovlace get the second of Surgeon General? I know Brian McCray also soloed the route, the complete route. I think some guys did it up to Lunar then bailed over to Zodaic. He said he thought the no name pitches up high were pretty rad and not to be missed if doing the route.
Burt
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Burt
climber
Sin City
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Nov 16, 2005 - 12:40am PT
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Sweet, if those are the new rules, then f*#k Klaus I'm doin the Zodiac swinging over and doin a pitch on Abstract, I'll get that second! Brian said SG was sick! he said "the Foe" was pretty rad. Nice work.
Burt
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 16, 2005 - 12:45am PT
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Whoa, didn't mean nothing except the old Anything Except FAs is Just Jacking rule. hahaha
And I agree, BTW--Deuce got the first ascent of AO and you got the last. Cool.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 16, 2005 - 12:51am PT
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Naw, my bad.
Hard free on the last few of SG? Looks like seams to crazy ass mantles and slabs up there. Little trees on the ledges and sh#t.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 16, 2005 - 01:24am PT
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Yo & Klaus
Lovelace and I did what we thought was the 4th ascent of the AO. But it now sounds like probably the 3rd. We as well climbed the first 5 "scary loose" pitches to El Cap tree that have since fallen.(any comment on those pitches Deuce?) I believe it was in the fall of 91' when we climbed it. Gerberding started soloing the route while we were finishing up on the top of the Turnpike. I would have think Steve was the last to do the complete route.
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Burt
climber
Sin City
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Nov 16, 2005 - 01:24am PT
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What really made the whipper worse is his arm kept the grigri open! He went alot bigger than he should have. Ammon say it from the trip area and he thought he was dead or something like that. We talked about it on a route that the 3 of us did in Zion, we laughed our asses off. He got this really bad burn (still has the scar to this day) and he was worried about some kind of infection, not the best thing to be thinking about 12 pitches up an el cap hard route! HA!
Burt
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 16, 2005 - 01:29am PT
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So how many ascents of El Cap has Lovelace done?!?! Has to be pretty damn high.
Oh and what is of him now? I can't believe his Baffin epic, that is a true epic!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 16, 2005 - 01:41am PT
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Bringmedeath
If I were to guess, in the 35-40 range I know I have done 8 or 10 with him.
Rick on the Turnpike after doing the AO. I'll try and find a shot of the loose sh#t down low.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 17, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
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this thread rocks!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 17, 2005 - 06:09pm PT
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Pacemaker:
I met a guy at the Leap last fall, who said he'd done the 2nd with an Australian guy named Tony. Forgot his name, but he lives in SF and tells a great story.
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wonderbread
climber
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Nov 17, 2005 - 07:36pm PT
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Has Adrift been mentioned yet? I remember being at the pub with Pritchard one night and he mentioned that it hadn't seen a repeat. This was a few years ago...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 17, 2005 - 09:15pm PT
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I remember meeting some Brits a few years ago who were going to repeat Adrift, said it had been put up by their mates. I seem to recall it goes straight up from P5 of Mescalito. I don't know how many independent pitches there are on it.
Eric is bad-ass for sure. This fall I watched him through Tom Evans' telescope on the traversing 9th pitch [Florida Swamps] of A.O. Wall. I remember the pitch, because Tom's viewfinder shows a mirror image. He was leading on a single rope, and after clipping the rivet, he completely backcleaned the hooking bit, and much of the expanding blades and arrows part. Man, that boy was run out!
For the record, since I am a known chickensh*t, I would surely have led the pitch on double ropes. Me backclean? Like, I don't think so, eh?
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ckalous
Trad climber
Colorado
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Nov 23, 2005 - 05:14pm PT
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Hey, Chris Kalous here. A dude in indian creek told me about this thread- never been to the sight before but I figured I'd weigh in and fill in a few details:
Brent and Josh, thanks for the shout out!
Brent, hope your summer and fall went well. Hope to see you soon but I'll be in S. America all winter so...
The added bolt on Plastic Surgery...yep, it's there. Had nothing to do with making it 'safer' or down-grading (the bolt there was good and climbing off it not so bad). It was a convenience thing- two bags, two dudes, etc. No supplimental gear in that spot. Two bolts is a ton more convenient. Plus the only real danger was blowing the single bolt while hauling with both of us hanging on it which just seems stupid to me. We didn't really think anything of it. Sorry to the purists and FA. If ya think me and Kevin are pussies, fine with me. Head on up and chop-chop (before hauling, of course.)
Second Ascents:
Reticent w/ Thaw and Synnot (Thaw lead the crux).
Plastic Surgery w. Thaw (We both lead supposed A5 pitches though Kevin lead a dangerous loose flake pitch rated A4 which felt like the crux of the route.)
Scorched Earth w/ Chris Righter (I lead all the cruxes. I did not entirely free the Leavitator pitch which I think was probably freed on the FA)
Bermuda Dunes w/ Rebecca Rusch(I lead most pitches. Incidentally, I added a f*#ked up 1/4 bolt to one of the two OW pitch belays which I believe have become the standard free version of Freerider and the Salathe. I hope someone has had the sense to replace it since. Also, Rebecca went on to solo some routes in the Valley and Zion after cutting her teeth on this route.)
My Gulf Stream ascent was the second SOLO. Wally was up there a couple weeks before me. His ascent was probably 8th or 9th.
Well, that's it. Don't really aid climb much any more. I never really had much reverance for the pursuit, anyway. These days, I'd rather free climb- its way more challenging. All the free climbing work on the captain in the last few years is visionary. I hope to check it out this coming year. See ya around.
CK
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 23, 2005 - 07:49pm PT
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Was this at top of 3??? Seems like all the other added bolts were really weird.
The 1st pitch anchor on High Plains Dripper caused my friend concern. Single bolt with nothin in the way of belay gear. We ended up belayin over on Pressure Cooker and traverseing back in. Skippin the 2nd pitch, which was all wet anyways. My buddy led a proud variation tho... one of the moves... total bone breaker should the hook pop that you are pendo'in off. I think we did like 200 feet of new climbin there... kinda forgot about that. But we bailed off the route cause I wasn't willin to hack it out after deckin.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 23, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
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You go up to do the second ascent of an A5 climb and decide it's belays aren't convenient enough for YOU so YOU change the route for YOUR needs?
Wow, what if we all did that.
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