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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Mar 13, 2019 - 05:21pm PT
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Hmmm. That what's hard about qualifying what a "rep" is. It's much easier to do one when the arm is knott straight (knott to mention jerking like a fish out of water like the CrossFit kooks).
I can easily bang out 10-12 if I only straighten my arms to a 20-30º angle, but that feels like cheating. Where do you draw the line?
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Mar 13, 2019 - 06:31pm PT
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What is the desired result of performing any exercise.
Does doing the exercise produce the desired result?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 13, 2019 - 06:56pm PT
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Anyone else here remember the Marine from the first Survival of the Fittest competition that was so good at pullups that they had to him to stop once he had easily blown by everyone else and didn't appear to be laboring at all?
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Mar 13, 2019 - 08:40pm PT
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"I can easily bang out 10-12 if I only straighten my arms to a 20-30º angle, but that feels like cheating. Where do you draw the line? "
In the Sands of Time.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Mar 13, 2019 - 09:26pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 13, 2019 - 09:31pm PT
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Lockoff strength is the key.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Mar 14, 2019 - 03:22am PT
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But I've read that it's not good to fully extend for pull-ups.
When climbing I often fully extend. So why would I train without full extension?
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:56pm PT
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long ago after hearing of yaniro's 1000 pullup sets altman and i decided to go for it. can't really remember the details but it was something like 3-4 hours. think we started with individual sets of 50 working down to sets of 1. at the end I was left with such bad tendonitis in an elbow I was out of it for weeks, not hardly worth it. another climber from back then known to do a few pullups was pat t. I remember the custom pullup bar he always traveled with.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Mar 15, 2019 - 08:03pm PT
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I used to do 1,000 pull-ups a day, with a 10-pound backpack. Real climber's pull-ups.
Ten sets of ten, 10 times a day.
I never got very strong. That's when I realized that genetics makes a huge difference in your athletic performance regardless of how much you train.
I used to watch Barry Bates do one-handed pull-ups, and so I trained hard with the hope of doing one-handed pull-ups with Barry. But I never even came close to one-handed pull-ups.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Mar 15, 2019 - 08:12pm PT
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So true in so many arenas SLR.
When I was lifting weights I did get a lot stronger.
I also got sore shoulders.
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D Murph
climber
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Mar 16, 2019 - 08:35am PT
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So Gill et al, looking back your on training history, what would you recommend now?
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Mar 16, 2019 - 12:20pm PT
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I'm astounded to hear of these feats of 1,000+ pull-ups a day. I can't imagine doing that, or wanting to do that if I were young. At 82 I have severe shoulder arthritis and degenerative spinal problems, but I still exercise modestly. I suppose were I to start again as a youngster I would not work the still rings. Doing the various cross moves and the like initiates shoulder problems that progress through life. On the other hand, I was doing one arm pull-ups on fingertips fifty years ago and my hands and fingers are a little stiff these days, but fine.
However, my spinal problems arose largely from jumping off boulders, even though I rarely jumped off more that two feet above the ground. When I see boulderers nowadays jumping from 15+ feet, even onto mats, I shudder. Gymnasts have used mats forever and they still suffer back problems.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Mar 16, 2019 - 06:05pm PT
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Word from Mr. Gill.
Strongest I ever got was from lots of bouldering (duh) and rope climbing cuz that's what I heard John Gill did!
The best way to do the rope climbing was long slow reaches as far apart as you could make them - no feet. Made your lock off and hands really strong.
Ring dips are really great, too, but the key there is low and controlled so you don't tear up your shoulders - quality over quantity.
Never got into the huge amount of pullups and am definitely impressed!
A cautionary tale from Mr. Gill, too. Was never into highballs unless I was sure to not fall - I like my body to be my friend. What's wrong with top roping? Oh yeah, it's not cool. Between cool or my back working right, I'll take my back.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Mar 17, 2019 - 07:25am PT
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While hundreds of push ups per day is impressive, I'm with others...seems a recipe for shoulder/elbow problems.
And if it's power you're after, there are better ways. Campus board or Bachar ladder.
Also with Gill on the jumping off thing. I did too much of that, and am certainly thinking it may come back to haunt me.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Mar 18, 2019 - 09:08am PT
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While hundreds of push ups per day is impressive, I'm with others...seems a recipe for shoulder/elbow problems.
It's all genetics. I did 1,000 pull-ups a day, and never had any shoulder problems from that, or climbing.
On the other hand.... I got into running trail ultras and ruined my knees. I'm crippled now. The ultra crowd will also tell you that it's all genetics.
Genetics. Find what you're good at, and stick with it.
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