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Lake Mead NRA Public Affairs
climber
Boulder City, NV
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Hello everyone,
We want to make sure everyone has a chance to submit their input on the proposed wilderness mangement plan. So we've extended the comment period to July 2, 2010. The website will be updated soon to reflect the new deadline.
Andrew Munoz
Public Affairs Officer
Lake Mead National Recreation Area
National Park Service
(702) 293-8691
andrew_munoz@nps.gov
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Thank you!
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Excellent news.
This is a cool place, worthy of our notice & care.
:-)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Wow. Then NPS posting up on Supertopo AND moving out a comment deadline, that's got to be considered pretty damn responsive in anyone's book. That also seems like a first worth acknowledging and means it's probably worth setting aside the usual bitching and badmouthing and trying to work constructively on this with those folks if you care about CTP.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Morning bump.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I like arguments against inappropriate bolting - however, nothing about the CTP bolts is 'inappropriate' other than possibly the runouts.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Those runouts certainly get the juices flowing. That's why I sent in my comments.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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wow, this is great news!
Thx Andrew!
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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I just sent in a letter. They may not have to take these into account, but that should never be an excuse for not getting in their face. Public outcry has caused some things to change.
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andrewsolow
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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Hello Everyone,
Earlier today, I spoke with the Public Affairs Officer for Lake Mead NRA and one of the Access Fund attorneys at length.
The following is my interpretation of what I heard during these two telephone conversations:
Current Status - 5/6/2010:
In my recent conversation with Lake Mead NRA Public Affairs Officer Andrew Munoz, I learned that Andrew Munoz is a very nice person. Unfortunately, I also learned that Lake Mead NRA is refusing to withdraw their bolt chopping plan and re-write it so that Rock Climbing bolts are permitted at Christmas Tree Pass, NV.
That means that all we got out of Lake Mead NRA so far is polite conversation and an agreement to delay bolt chopping until after July 2nd.
So, the constructive ban on Rock Climbing at Christmas Tree Pass, NV is still on the table. And, we still need to submit Objections to the bolt chopping plan.
This will be a precedent setting case for Rock Climbing nationwide. If the NPS in the guise of the Lake Mead NRA succeeds in constructively banning Rock Climbing at Christmas Tree Pass by banning climbing bolts, you can be sure that NPS, BLM and USFS will try to ban bolted climbing in a lot of other places throughout the USA.
Lake Mead NRA: LAKE Draft Wilderness Management Plan
OFFICIAL COMMENT LINK
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?parkID=317&projectID=16820&documentId=33282
Sample Objection - previously posted on Supertopo
Lake Mead National Recreation Area – (702-293-8990)
Park Superintendent – (702-293-8920)
601 Nevada Hwy
Boulder City, NV 89005-2426
Via Fax to: 702-293-8936
Via Webform to: http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?parkID=317&projectID=16820&documentId=33282
SUBJECT: Objection to LAKE Draft Wilderness Management Plan/EA - April 2010
I object to the Draft Wilderness Management Plan to the extent that it proposes:
"Climbing bolts by Willow Springs [and throughout the Lake Mead National Recreation Area] would be removed. The bolts do not receive much use, are not NPS sanctioned, and are not consistent with the area’s wilderness character."
In the Christmas Tree Pass rock climbing area, removal of all the bolts is a defacto ban on climbing and future climbing. If implemented, this proposal would also constructively ban rock climbing on smooth walls throughout the Lake Mead National Recreation Area.
There is no rational basis provided (nor does one exist) for this proposal.
The statement that the bolts do not receive much use is untrue and is irrelevant in any event. As a matter of fact, bolts and other fixed climbing anchors have been updated and replaced by climbers over the years.
The fixed anchors are a minimum necessary tool for climbing in this area. In this area, fixed climbing anchors (including bolts) are necessary for safely climbing the majority of the routes. The proposed removal of the bolts is, in effect, a ban on climbing.
Many of the fixed anchors have been in place for 35+ years. They do not visually intrude on the landscape and do not affect the wilderness character in any respect.
Fixed climbing anchors are permitted and exist in many wilderness areas managed by the NPS, BLM, and USFS. This proposal is in conflict with National agency policy and unreasonably abolishes a legal, human powered, non-intrusive wilderness activity that is traditional to the area.
Studies conducted in other National Parks (e.g.: Joshua National Park) show that fixed anchors neither affect the wilderness character or visitor experience.
If climbing bolts are prohibited in Christmas Tree Pass, more than 30 multi-pitch rock climbs and many shorter climbs established in Christmas Tree Pass over the last 35 years would be rendered unclimbable. NPS must not be allowed to constructively ban rock climbing at Christmas Tree Pass just because Christmas Tree Pass does not receive as much use as Red Rocks, NV or Yosemite, CA.
Since it appears that this proposal will have a major impact on a legal wilderness activity, I find it odd that climbers and climber organizations such as the Access Fund were not consulted or permitted input into this process. As such, to the extent the Draft Plan addresses climbing, it is fatally flawed and uninformed.
The Draft Plan also gives the appearance of a deliberate attempt to clandestinely ban climbing -- with the hope that this ill-advised proposal would fly under the climbing community's radar.
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andrewsolow
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2010 - 08:13am PT
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Another Sample Objection Letter
Lake Mead National Recreation Area – (702-293-8990)
Park Superintendent – (702-293-8920)
601 Nevada Hwy
Boulder City, NV 89005-2426
Via Fax to: 702-293-8936
Via Webform to: http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?parkID=317&projectID=16820&documentId=33282
SUBJECT: Objection to LAKE Draft Wilderness Management Plan/EA - April 2010
It has come to my attention that the NPS is considering implementing a ban on the placement of fixed climbing anchors In the Lake Mead NRA - although I found no mention of this issue on their website. Furthermore, Lake Mead NRA is apparently proposing to remove 200 or more anchors that are already in place.
As an avid rock climber, mountaineer, and advocate for the preservation of wilderness, I am adamantly opposed to these proposals which will deny recreational use of public land to a sizeable community of outdoor enthusiasts without appreciable enhancement of aesthetic, historical, or environmental values or qualities.
Fixed anchors have been employed by climbers in the U.S. since the 1930's.
They were first placed by the likes of David Brower, Ansel Adams, Francis Farquahr, and others, without whose passion for climbing in wild places, we would have no Wilderness act. In fact the political activism of these early "bolters" created the foundations of enlightened land use policy today. These pioneers were convinced that recreational use of wilderness would motivate public support for preservation. They would surely have argued that the negligible impact of fixed anchors, responsibly placed, would be a small price to pay for the education and motivation of legions of future environmental stewards.
While there may be places where anchors have proliferated beyond "responsible" levels, Christmas Tree Pass is not one of them. All anchors have been placed in traditional style, ground up, and by hand. They are few and far between - much to the chagrin of inexperienced climbers. In fact it's hard for even a trained climber to spot most of them.
To ban the placement of new anchors would be senseless enough. But removing those already in place would be the height of folly. Not only would precious funds be wasted in this effort, but the impact of such a project would be equivalent to the impact of many years of normal climber traffic. Finally, scars would remain. Even a bolt hole filled with a rock/epoxy mixture can be detected upon close examination. Would this be progress?
In conclusion, I urge you and your colleagues in the National Park Service to retract these proposals which would benefit neither the environment in the LMNRA, the climbing community, or the larger public, should these proposals be adopted in the Lake Mead NRA, or anywhere else.
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andrewsolow
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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Christmas Tree Pass BOLT CHOPPING Update
As of Saturday, May 8th: The two primary issues for Rock Climbers are still Bolt Chopping and Native American Treaty Rights. Here's why:
On Thursday, May 6th, a local climber from Bullhead City, AZ met with a particular Lake Mead NRA Park Planner (who I believe to be the source of the bolt chopping plan) at Christmas Tree Pass, NV, took him on a tour and showed him some of the main formations and routes.
After wandering around CTP for a couple of hours, the Park Planner orally agreed that the bolts are virtually invisible and that 95% of the bolts are in the Bridge Canyon Wilderness, NOT in the Spirit Mountain Wilderness where the mountain itself is a designated cultural resource which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Based on his meeting with the Park Planner, the local climber reported that the Park Planner seems to have changed his opinion; and he no longer believes that chopping bolts at Christmas Tree Pass is a good idea.
However, the Lake Mead NRA has NOT withdrawn their bolt chopping plan. And, Lake Mead NRA has specifically told both me and one of the Access Fund attorneys that Bolt Chopping is "Still "On the Table"
That local climber agreed with me that all we can do for now is keep sending in Objection letters in opposition to bolt chopping and give the Access Fund, the Las Vegas Climbers Liason Counsel (LVCLC), the local climber from Bullhead City, AZ and others a chance to consult with Lake Mead NRA and the indigenous Americans with treaty rights in the area and try to negotiate a new wilderness management "Plan" that permits rock climbing bolts.
The local climber specifically requested that we be polite so that the Lake Mead NRA personnel don't get their hackles up.
The new deadline for Objecting to the bolt chopping plan is July 2nd.
Will post another update as soon as I learn anything new.
Lake Mead NRA: LAKE Draft Wilderness Management Plan
OFFICIAL COMMENT LINK
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?parkID=317&projectID=16820&documentId=33282
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 11, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
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That's great news!
But then again, the local community doesn’t gain much economically from a bunch of climbers clipping those damn offensive bolts!!! Hmmmmm… We’re not a minority here, are we? Discrimination? Or criminalization?
On the contrary! Twice a year we rent casino rooms for three nights each trip. We go out for meals in Bullhead City as well as Laughlin. We buy gas, ice, beer. We haul out trash every time we go out there, though it's getting harder and harder to find spent shotgun shells since we've been cleaning up for years now.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 11, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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Gary, nice that you guys support the locals like that, but among climbers, is that the norm?
Any thoughts on my original question?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 11, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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About other users? If you think it's relevant, why not? It's a National Recreation Area after all, and we want to recreate!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 11, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
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OK, thanks Gary. Just wanted to make sure that there weren’t any “why not’s” that I might have (easily) overlooked. Think I’ll include that stuff in my comments.
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Soulsurfer
Trad climber
carlsbad, Ca
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May 11, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
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A little history about Christmas tree pass. To those who do not know, it got its name from all the beer cans hung from the bushes on either side of the road as you get off 163. Think red necks having a good time back when there was only the Riverside casino and Edgewater. This was 30 yrs ago or more. This was(is) my second home as my parents had a second house above Katherine landing. Went boating on Lake Mojave in the summer and rode dirt bikes and shot up the desert and played Johnny Cash the rest of the time
We noticed a very big change in Park service Rangers (ie hostile and harrassing) I guess 20-25 yrs ago. Since then we have had run ins with them but they mostly leave us alone on the Az side. We had a run in where we were hunting up there and basically had a standoff with the ranger. He called the Kingman sheriff for back up and when the sherifff came out to meet my dad he apologized and made the ranger leave.
Any ways, the rangers and park system have a lot of power now and do not like people messing around in 'Their' park system.
This looks like just another tighting of the screws by the park service to keep 'the man' in check while visiting 'Their' park.
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andrewsolow
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 05:29am PT
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Our best weapon is to submit Objections to the Lake Mead NRA Draft Plan.
Object Online
http://parkplanning.nps.gov/commentForm.cfm?parkID=317&projectID=16820&documentId=33282
For rock climbers, the most important thing to object to is the climbing bolt ban because that would effectively ban face climbing throughout the Lake Mead NRA and set a precedent that could be used to ban climbing bolts nationwide.
Without the liberal use of expletives, I cannot adequately express my displeasure with the local bureauocrats whose "Draft Plan" is nothing more than a solution in search of a problem.
The new deadline for submission of Objections is Midnight, July 1, 2010.
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