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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 13, 2010 - 02:28am PT
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Trial by Fire and Pharoah's Beard's are both nice, although the latter is significantly wider. Pharoah's Beard was my first OW lead, in the days of pitons, so I have a particular fondness for it. Large cams have made it less harrowing, though it's still a grunt. Snow and cold should not be a problem by May.
Peter Pan has a very nice position, although that comes at the price of some hiking and scrambling. Although the actual OW part is only 35 or 40 feet, I think it's pretty hard for 5.9 (and even harder at the 5.8 it was rated in the Red Roper Guide!) Also, as mentioned, it's a long way from the last bolt to the top.
The first pitch of the old Regular Route of the Slack has a nice 5.7 or 5.8 OW after the first 35 feet. Those first 35 feet are about 5.10c/d tips (or C1 if no one is looking).
Also the Left Side of Christina, which is a 5.9 lieback, can also be done as an off-width, although it's a bit harder that way.
Have fun!
John
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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May 28, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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Most of the routes on this thread have been recommended by many on this forum so if there was a top 3-5 list of the "must do OW cracks" in that list, could I assume they would be:
1) Chingando
2) Generator
3) Ahab
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Those are all pretty frickin' hard. I didn't see an easier OW, except for the top of Sacherer which is 5.9, someone said?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 28, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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Keep in mind we're talking about OW climbing and, given that, the listed climbs are not overly difficult. Generator and Chingando are easily top roped. In the early 70's I developed my OW technique via numerous encounters with Generator Crack- have fun!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 28, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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There's a 5.8 OW/Squeeze on the far right side of Reed's area. From the rap-off of Ejesta, look 30 meters uphill to the right, and it's a very obvious splitter wide crack, only 20-30 feet tall. No 5.10 finger crack barrier, but protection is challenging (chockstone slingable but it rotates). Great for toprope (shiny new bolts up top) if someone else leads it for you.
For folks who recommend Sacherer Cracker as training, I say do this one instead. Twice as long in the wide part, and no 5.10 rattly finger approach to it!
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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May 28, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Well, if Donini says we should try then I guess we have to.
Thanks Nutjob. What needs to be climbed in order to get to that OW? Is it Ejesta, or the OW itself needs to be led?
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 28, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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It's very accessible... scramble right up from Ejesta rap spot, a few tens of meters to the very obvious splitter wide crack. Rope up when you deem necessary.
Need to lead the OW itself to get to the bolts, and the pro is not really sufficient if you think you might fall (but a VG12 would make it fine). It is definitely more moderate than most of the climbs listed here, and fun. Just don't stand on either of the chockstones!
Size: slightly wider than heal-toe for La Sportiva size 43.5
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 28, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
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easy to set up top rop for OW
On Cookie cliff:
1. walk at the base of Waverly Wafer and set up TP for CookieLeft 10a - hardest 10a I've ever climbed
2. Cleft 5.9OW by climbing Catchy 10d and traverse left
3. Banana Dream 10a from top of Cookie Cliff
On Camp 4 wall - easy to set up TP for Doogie Do
On Reeds -
1. climb regular route and tr last pitch of Reeds Direct 10a ow
2. climb bongs away left5.8 and tr Bong away center
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 28, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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very nicely written report Scott [I missed it in 2008], I really like your stile.
Yes, Elevator shaft is a road to Twilight Zone - literally - you can tr TZ after Elevator done
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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May 28, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
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Great thread and input. Nutjob, cool tr. I agree with Alexey I like your writing.
This is OT but if I go to the Cookie, most of the other climbs are in the 5.11+ range but can they be tr'd? I know a lot of those routes you have to walk out on some crazy traverse (DFU traverse?) just to get to the anchors/base of climbs. Would be nice to get some hard finger crack practice too.
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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May 28, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
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Cookie Center
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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May 29, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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I'd go where all the beginners go - Swan Slab.
There is an OW that breaks off left about half way up the Oak Tree Flake. Its low angle, easy fifth, razor cut OW. With your right side in, you can stare directly at the Steck Salathe while digging great heal-toe jams and solid chicken wings. Scramble off to the left.
Another good OW lies above and to the right of Grant's Crack. Its easy fifth with solid heal-toe jams and chicken wings. There is an old bolt at the top alcove. (I've seen raccoons living deep in it so try to stay high.) Escape out left via a big airy step over to the top of the Bay Tree Crack. Then walk to the top of the Penthouse Cracks and scramble down the left side.
Enjoy!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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May 29, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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So Alexey what are your tips for climbing Ahab??
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
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Lots of great info here! All I need to do now is heal up and get back to climbing.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Last bump/question:
Will this weekend of the 5th and 6th of June be too hot to hit some of these OWs on the list?
I don't know. I really like the Valley and like climbing there, even if it's hot or crowded.
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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man, i really would have loved to try The Good Book. No current info to be had on that climb as far as i can tell.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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I've been compiling lots of information from this thread. Several climbs stand out for a nuevo OW climber working his way in this area: "Trial by Fire" appears to be a great starting point, and "Little John--left side" as another good waypoint. I was particularly impressed by Ed's video of "Bongs Away--Center" with Gary Carpenter, and that appears to be a very worthy 5.10a goal.
To everyone; thanks!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
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wide bump... he Brokedown, how's the training going?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
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Wyde disturbance continues....
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