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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jun 23, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Theron,
Keep fighting the good fight, Bro!
Can't wait to see pics!
Thor
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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Got a chance to do the trial run on the 'biner hole drilling.
I used "Tom"'s Original A5 head to find the correct drill location. Tom bought this head and some other stuff when Duece was cleaning out his closet. The drilling had been started but it walked of center. I used a mill to flatten out a spot to restart the hole in the location. I then center drilled it to get a good start for the larger drills.
Mounted and ready to be resurected from the dead:
Positioning:
Milling a flat:
Restarting the hole:
Drilling a 1/4" pilot hole:
Drilled:
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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I did a little custom grinding to the standard high speed steel drill I bought. I want to see how long the cheap drill will last. I releived the back side of the cutting surface and ground the center to a point for faster material removal and easier hole starting.
Set up in the preset fixture:
Not so good shot of the finished grind job:
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 01:35am PT
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I got started with the real deal. The first D5 head caused a little concern. I dulled the tips of the large drill before I was half way through the head. Not good. I started with a mill bit to flatten the face so I could start a good straight hole. The surface I have to drill into is not perpendicular to the axis the drill is travelling. The entry point and exit point are not parallel to each other either. This makes fro dificult drilling. The drill tips want to catch on the side that makes contact first or they want to deflect away. Either one is not good.
The first sequence I used was: mill, spot drill, 1/4" drill, 1/2" drill, 19/32" drill. I found that the 19/32" drill wasn't taking off enough metal to slow it down and feed correctly. I was going a little to fast on RPMs of the spindle too. I got these straightened out on the second try by slowing the spindle down and skipping the 1/2" drill altogether.
Spot drilling:
Making chips:
More chip making:
Straight off the mill:
Chamfered top:
Chamfered bottom:
Passes the biner test:
This is going to be another slow procces like the milling. The milling and the drilling on the heads are going to be the two cruxes of this project. The tangs and handles are not to big of a deal. I feel that it will be a good finished hammer.
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Dutch
Trad climber
pdx
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looks great Moses. Thanks for under taking this endeavor. Keep it up!
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Cpt0bvi0u5
Trad climber
Merced CA
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Sick! It's awesome to see this project finally coming together! Keep up the great work and the community appreciates the work that is going into this.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Theron, I figured it might take you few permutations to pin down the best approach to drilling the funk hole given what John related, but I have no doubt you'll sort out the most efficient milling / drilling system possible. It all sounds good, and please do keep us posted on the burn rate on the bits and any other changes as many of us find the details fascinating.
Hammers ho!!!
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 03:59am PT
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Re: Burn Rate
I have gone through two Niagra 3/4" TiCN coated endmills so far with the facing of the hammer heads. This was a result of the mist coolant running out at times. $27 or so each.
Scraped heads: 0
I think that getting the heads in the annealed state has helped in the machining. The softer metal has been easier to cut.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I hope the red on that hammer head wasn't your blood, Theron!!!!!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Theron,
This is facinating to watch the process!
When can i test one!?
Thanks,
Thor
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Proud.
Looking good, Theron. Nice work. Especially with zero scrap. Took me a head or two to figure out all that out...
cheers
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Very cool stuff, Theron.
Boy, some of these guys ask a lotta questions, huh?
Rock on, Mr. M!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Appreciate the update. I just looked up "Labor of Love" and there was a picture of this project in there. Thanks to everyone who worked (and is working) to make this happen.
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2010 - 09:14pm PT
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Two funerals and moving to a new to us home has reall put a damper on production. I made good progress in July but August has been swamped with other things.
I got the D5 Logo punch just this week:
The red on the hammer head is Dykem a brush on dye that is thin and used to show where you are machining. It is also used to scribe into for marking where you want to machine.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 20, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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Glad to hear it wasn't your liquids, T!!!!!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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My co-worker who is an old school master machinist suggested 100% carbide drills or EDMing the holes out.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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I am sure my late dad would frown on me for asking the question, but...
That 'biner hole leaves very little in the way of wall material. Isn't that going to be a weak point after a dozen pitches of slammin' copperheads in tight corners? Were the original A5 hammers that thin in that area?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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One would use the face for that, Simon.
The punch or chisel touches the head. I like a punch. Minerals hooked me up with a good one.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:54am PT
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How is the hole drilling procedure coming along?
Got it figured out yet?
Just curious what you settled on, if you have.
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