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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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Shhhhh... Top Secret!
Actruall you can see Pisgha from the top of The Great Corner so you must be able to see wheeler from up high on the ice climbs.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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That's right- no rock climbing in VT. NONE.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Tradman--Top secret, except for the fact that it is included in Stewart Greens New England guidebook!!!!
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Mees
climber
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Perhaps the best sport ice climbing area in the 48 I guess, you will have to see what Ouray has to say... I wouldn't even begin to compare Cody to this place, totally different deal.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
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Ya, he just put one route in there and graded it 11c instead of 10c so that keeps the rif raff away... actually I wish i could get my hands on the topo as i only know 10 or so routs out of over 100. I think you need to be a hot chick to get that topo..
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Tradman. Is the corner only 10c? When we did it eons ago (and never thought it was the FA--I don't know where Stewart got that one from)my free climbing efforts got totally shut-down in the upper section where the rock steepened, the crack thinned down drastically and footholds seemed to disappear on the right wall, so I resorted to a few pins of aid(yeah, pins--it was the '60s). For a long time I was talking to Webster about the climb and going back with him as rope gun to try to free it. We never got around to it and he eventually went over there with Sue and they did do it free , but I recall that he graded it 11b or c--which made me feel a bit better about my failure(though 10c was probably above my head at that time anyway--probably still is).I, too, would love to see the topo, I've never been up there since and I'd enjoy climbing there again--but, unfortunately, I'm definitely not a "hot chick".
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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oh come one Al- your a kinda hot chick ! I actually did this route quite a while ago. For sure 10++ HA HA. Ed called great Corner route ?
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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slabbo/John: You were able to cram your not so dainty digits into that upper seam---I'm impressed!!!! Alan
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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I think it may have gotten beat out a bit more by pins. It feels real hard thougho but i can't climb 5.11 and the boys up there call it 10c.
Huh???? Compared to the Lake Ourey is a mouse fart. I didn't get to climb ice there as it was too late in the season. I did get a decent look at it. The ice was still there but it was all rotten. Anyways it looked exactly like a single pitch sport park.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Ya thats' me - dainty digits. A bit lumpy now though
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Did you guys hear about that new Yellowstone Testpiece?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2010 - 07:22am PT
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Looks kind of short ;)
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ExtraBlue
Ice climber
the ford VT
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Got to say I am kind of disappointed with all the Western folks who jump to claim that no one anywhere East of them has better ice.
Those easy ice first "pitches" of cali ice are WI1, I know I hiked up them. Furthermore until two years ago Hyalite was climbable for only 2-3 months of the year. (THANK YOU JOJO AND SWMCC!!!!) Because you couldn't get up the road the rest of the time, Paradise valley climbs are just as bad to get too, and Cody while it has freaking amazing climbs is in the middle of no where. So yes there are amazing climbs out west but half the adventure of them is getting to the trail head. (Also lets face it, if all you want to judge an area on is difficulty of ice and length then nothing in the lower 48 holds a torch to Alaska.)
Guys, guess what there is amazing ice in the east. And you don't need to spend a day on the approach. Look at Alpinist's "Go East" Article, and stop the new jerk reactions that West is best.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Extrablue, I think that 38 of the first 40 posts on this site were about how Willoughby was the "best". I for one think it looks great, but there is good stuff is out west also and to say one is better than the other seems kind of trivial.
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Mees
climber
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Personally I don't care how much you wanna compare one area to the next it's pointless. I can assure you that if you enjoy ice climbing, and you find yourself in the Southfork valley you won't be thinking you are nowhere. You will probably wish you were somewhere else though considering the spanking it gives people who aren't ready for that type of experience.. I'll humor you though, nowhere means you are a few hours from the Beartooths range, the bighorn range, the tetons,the winds etc, devils' tower, fremont canyon all the sport areas etc.... Let's head to Vermont to go climbing so we can be "somewhere" whatever that means. That's some funny sh#t right there, thanks for the laughs dude.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 08:00am PT
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I agree that there is no Best area or best climb. There are however standouts that are well worth the airfare, travel time and climbing time. Lake Willoughby is without a doubt one of those and a few of the long climbs that you posted from Wyo also fit that catagory.
Initialy this thread was an attempt to keep a climbing thread on the front page hence the bait in the title ;) Still did not work. the Repug thread will most likly hit 20,000 posts before the end of the week...
Alan, I have an old 1981 Mountain Magazine with a photo of Ed on the great corner claiming the FFA @ 11a
So Ed thought it was midd 11 at the time but reported it at 11a to the raggs being the sandbag artists that he is ;) The locals fine sandbag artists as well downrated it to 10c. there you have it :)
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Exactly Trad- 10+ just like Airation !
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Tradman, bump for a climbing thread. The best ice for me this week was right above town where there was still some pillars hanging around on Thursday that I got to play on after work. Not bad considering the nearly 80 degree temps of last week.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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Sweet. nothing left here unless you go up to Mt washington. Rock climbing the last 2 days and plan on going again in a few min. ;)
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