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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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[photoid=162913]
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Blitzo,
awesome pictures my man!
keep em rolling..
ks
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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paul crawford's hero crown is absent everytime i see him soaking up the weak winter sun outside the coffee shop.
but hero status is his.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Okay, I was inspired. Anyone one to take a day to check
out Indian Rock with me- via the Fallen Leaf Lake trailhead?
Weather looks good for the next week, chance to escape
the heat. PM me and let's go.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Here's the Indian Rock description:
Weschrist- Hou about you, game?
The approach is only an hour, piece of cake.
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Footloose-
that looks like rick Piggot.
Silver-
Jim posts her quite often. He probably is following this thread, although he has summers off he might be out roadtripping!
take care
dave
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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"You can get very into the gear when in that state of mind, I had to encourage Jim to put it in the crack instead of just playing with it" LOL
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Silver-
check your e-mail.
take care
dave
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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Thanks for the well wishes, Dan. I am healing but it is going to take awhile, both mentally and physically. glad to hear that you are still so active in the canyon. You are doing great work up there and I know that the few people who "get it" appreciate the revival that has begun.
take care
dave
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 10, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Yeah Ron, The Kneeon photo was in Sumner's 1980 guide book.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 10, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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[photo
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 10, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
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The rock at Prison Hill is like iron. It's like the rock at New Jack City. What is it?
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matt morgan
Trad climber
carson city, nevada
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Jul 10, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
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Ron,
Is that the same Zubbie who at one time owned Spooner Mountain Sports in Carson... at the end of town near the junction to Tahoe? Because I learned to climb with Zubbie and your discription of the panic run out on a #1 stopper fits... I remember going to do my first baby offwith with Zubbie at Lovers, Bookmark, and Zubbie forgot his belay device... his response "It's cool, I'll just put you on hip belay bro, people have been hip belaying for years." Not quite the response I expected but, hey, it was Zubbie... If it's the same Zubbie, I've got stories, upon stories, especially since I was a noob... sometimes I'm suprised I survied. : )
Matt
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 10, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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I still hip belay someone following, it's much faster than a device.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 11, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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Here's Indian Rock, near Lake Tahoe, today-
Another angle:
Lots of rock. Kinda reminded me of Woodfords Canyon.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 11, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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Yeah. I actually climbed up it through the terraces and topped out. The pictures were taken around back on the descent to the West.
Sounds like the GF is being groomed for the sport / team. Cool.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 12, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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"waiting in line to climb is better than work..." Well said, Chim. Esp if it is the Leap.
Indeed, I haven't had any specific "project" at the Leap
in at least five years, so if there were a "wait" on one route, I
would just hit up another. It's never once been a problem.
I like days it's empty, I like days East Wall is chockful
of people-energy, too. It's all good.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 12, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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Ron wrote-
"Solitude was always a major draw for me."
I get that, too.
Fine poetry. :)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 12, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
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Ron- So is that an overhanging OW next to the 5.12a LedZep
in the first photo? If so any good?
Excellent drawings, too.
EDIT TO ADD: I'll drive by tomorrow and check it out.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jul 12, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
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The Leaps not a crowded as everyone makes it out to be. Problem is everyone has a particular route they want to do, and so wait in line when they could just climb the route next door.
A good example, I was able to climb 11 routes (yes routes, not pitches) on East wall in just under nine hours and only passed one party on bushy ledge a couple years ago. This was on a very busy Saturday in peak season.
Just gotta keep your options open and don't "expect" to jump on anything in particular. (end spray)
There's plenty of places to find total solitude in the Tahoe area. In fact, most places are usually pretty empty. Cal domes being one of the best for pure cracks and gnarly face. Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun is probably one of the best face routes around, along side Beacons From Mars. Silk Road (high times) linked up with the Karakorum Highway via the Lightning Bolt cracks is another gem checking in at around 15 pitches that is longer, slightly easier but equally classic as Astroman.
Then you have Bear River Domes. Monster slab routes, cracks tons of rarely explored rock and never a sole around.
Woodfords of course, which is 1000 or so routes, mostly fairly short but with as much as the approach inconveniences the routes make up for in conveniences as they're easy to jump around on. Should probably explore around that place myself more often.
Theirs Luther, generally no one up there.
Wrights Lake, Echo Lakes, Indian Rock as mentioned above, Lions Creek, Shakespeare Rock. Lets not forget Eagle Rock. 400+ ft of vertical granite featuring discontinuous cracks speckled with dikes, pockets, knobs and slopers. The kind of place you go to when you want to be humbled or are seeking a near death experience.
Of course, there's more up north, out east and dotted in between, I'm just sayin. People should poke they're nose around the corner more often.
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