Sugarloaf appreciation

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 61 - 80 of total 101 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Mar 14, 2010 - 04:18am PT

Skychild, your extremely lame remarks and witless, negative demeanor throughout all your posts are an obvious indication to your weak character, lack of intelligence and overall low self esteem.

Must you be a total dick in every post you make? Do you really need to fluff up your already inflated ego that much??

Lets try this; How about you give us your full name Don? That way everyone will know exactly who we're talking too. You see, you might just have to back up your big mouth when someone runs into you out in the real world, which just might cause you to be a little more courteous and cautious with what you say in the future.

My guess is you don't have the balls, or are you just simply a Troll?

Here, I'll go first. Hi, my name is Chad Suchoski. Some of you may better know me as Salamanizer. Ya see, that wasn't so hard. Now I have to back up what I say to people when I meet them out on the stone. See ya out there Donnie.

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Mar 14, 2010 - 10:02am PT

a winter outing on sheister.
(loose block is still there above chimney. tread lightly)

the loose block.
view from the drivers seat.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 14, 2010 - 10:28am PT

I always recall Sugarloaf with affection; it was my first climbing outing without an adult. We began to go up there before we even had drivers licenses. We would take the Greyhound and get off at Kyburz. This was beginning in 1964. We never ever saw any other climbers there although I guess Ken Edsburg and Davidson had been up there a little and soon RR too. One time, Greyhound had somehow lost our luggage and we had to sleep in newspapers in the forest for that night, waiting all the next day for it to finally arrive.

As everyone says the rock is superb but maybe not mentioned above is how you can dry camp up there on the saddle without any problems with heaps of other people and machinery. A big relief. And you can keep the beat going by just going up-canyon to Phantom Spires, the Leap, Emerald Bay, and of course Woodfords a bit further. Great places.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Mar 14, 2010 - 12:19pm PT

Max on The Fracture Roof before it was Grand Illusion.

FTOR

Sport climber

Mar 14, 2010 - 06:18pm PT

had my first experience with roped climbing at sugarloaf too. sans nuts, just pins and hammer. remember looking up at farley, that i think tm put up, in disbelief that someone could hang in there placing bongs for pro on the lead. spent many fine days up there over the years, good times. feel sorry for those not having a chance to climb up there before the fire took out most of the forest, haven't been up there myself, but it just doesn't look the same. hi all-rob

oldcragster

Gym climber

Mar 14, 2010 - 10:02pm PT

nice shots of Scheister's flared chimney. Reminded of story. The pitch above has that lieback that gets easier after a bit. Jim Hicks was leading the lieback section. I'm guessing it was '69, because we only had pitons. I wanted to get a picture, so I moved the belay way over left to the ledge atop Harding's Chimney. The belay was a hip belay. So I have one hand on the rope and the other holding the camera, when Jim falls. He had one piton in. The rope to me acted like a trip wire; he instantly inverted with gear rack over shoulder almost coming off his body. I managed to stop him one-handed. His head was only a few feet above the normal belay ledge. It went from a terror-filled instant to us laughing our heads off, as he quickly righted himself. It was then that we realized the seriousness our folly. Had the pin pulled, he probably would have hit the ledge headfirst, then falling down the chimney below for a ways, and if I had lost control of the rope.....I don't want think of the outcome. We rallied, moved the belay to normal spot, added another piton, and up he went with no further delays. Don't remember ever being on a route at Sugarloaf in the snow.

skychild

Trad climber

Birmingham, Alabama

Mar 15, 2010 - 09:21pm PT

I edited my recent entry but the jist of it remains the same. Peace Pot Microdot, Don

msiddens

Trad climber

Mountain View

Mar 16, 2010 - 02:44pm PT

Hmm, I felt that the responses ARE an indication of the overall quality of the climbs and the area. Tahoe has plenty of good stone and areas. This is another one of them.

Of course...it's all a matter of personal preference and it's up to the climber. That being said, I don't bag on the group that would rather climb boulders that routes or in the gym rather than outside.

Sal, you are right on the mark.

Ricardo Cabeza

climber

All Over.

Mar 16, 2010 - 03:06pm PT

This may sound lame, but Hardings Chimney scared the crap out of me!

Pulling into the chimney and seeing the manky piton as my only pro ( I had no big gear) was scary and cool!

Old skool 5.7.

The pitch into the chimney was fun as well, all passive pro.
My GF (at the time) saw some folks she knew around the corner and they were heckling me for using hexes. Whatever, those hexes were bomber!

I may not be old, but climbing old school routes on old school gear is really fun!

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Mar 16, 2010 - 03:41pm PT

ricardo, check out the hex placement on farley!
what i was thinking?

the fracture.

tom woods

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Mar 16, 2010 - 03:49pm PT

That's the move step on the knob then pull a fingerlock to your thigh and reach the next perfect lock.

it's been ten years, but that crack is classic.

Anybody know if Bachar sent the grand illusion? It looks so good it's not funny.

I'm really liking the pics of grand illusion.

Trad

Trad climber

northern CA

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2010 - 09:31pm PT

Here's a picture from a couple months ago. Not the greatest shot but if you look close you can see someone trying to free Grand Illusion up there.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Mar 17, 2010 - 07:04pm PT

Crushed Velvet, tuesday at the Loaf. Great route!

Kupandamingi

Trad climber

Berkeley

Mar 17, 2010 - 10:34pm PT

Dave,

nice picture. sorry I wasn't able to join you guys up there today, I've always wanted to get on that route. I heard the day was 'eventful'.

Greg

Charlie D.

Trad climber

Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra

Mar 18, 2010 - 12:48am PT

oldcragster, Yes indeed we likely met BITD, I do remember Jim Day, did you climb with Urmas?

Trad, Chances are that's Paul Crawford on Grand Illusion he was working it a couple months ago making the old school boys proud!

t*r, Your friend I held in my arms as a baby, I was a good friend of Jon's and their mother's. It would be my pleasure to meet him or her. I have fond memories of their dad and the many days at Tahquitz & Suicide, in the Sierra and here climbing, skiing and just hanging out that I'd be happy to share. I also have many photos of our adventures together, he was a great guy who profoundly affected my life, send me a pm if he, she or they are interested.

Supertopo, thanks for helping connect the dots.....such magic, berg heil.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Mar 18, 2010 - 01:02am PT

Hey Greg! Yeah, it was a productive and eventful day for us at the loaf, sorry you couldn't make it. Lots of stuff went down, sometimes stuff went down head first, yikes!

Love the Loaf!

TLloyd-Davies

Trad climber

Santa Clara, ca

Mar 18, 2010 - 04:12am PT

Wow Sugarloaf, my first ever lead during a mutli-pitch. This place, although I rarely think of it up there with a lot of my other firsts (first climb, first lead, first 5.10 etc.), really holds a special place for me.

We did Bolee's Gold (5.10c ish).

Man, after going through the exposure of those first 5.10 pitches, belaying at a hanging belay for the first time, in like 20mph winter winds, flipping out, expecting my partner to fall at any point (he hyped me up so much that he would, I was uber aware), I swore off climbing forever.

Oh, and then I had the pleasure of leading what they call 5.8-5.7 R-ish. My first lead way off the ground, slinging the occasional knob, running sh#t out like I knew what I was doing. Looking back I can't believe I climbed again.

But getting to the top of my pitches, still being alive, hot damn that was one of the best experiences of my life. We finished up another climb to head to the actual summit, and honestly thus, on that summit, began the obsession.