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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Another couple of shots from the above trip.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Three classic, and very different climbing areas are in close proximity to each other.
Devils Tower - Classic cracks.
The Needles - The definition of adventure climbing - As I always tell people, you probably want to lead routes a number (not letter) grade easier than you normally lead - if you're a 5.11 leader, you probably only want to get on the 5.10's.
Mt. Rushmore - Awesome and fun sport climbing
Paul
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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stopped through for a short time last year.
the place really rips on your fingertips!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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John, did you ever do any bouldring around Nemo in the central Black Hills?
Yes, some time back in that sandstone right across from Steamboat Rock. The area is now overrun with paintballers.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Johnboy, I was wondering if John Gill had done anything in that area or others such as Whiterock or some boulders right off the interstate on the SD/WY border back in the day. There is some good stuff around Nemo, SD. To bad about the grafitee all over the place at the Rock Maze, but there is more in some areas off of Estes Creek Road on some real nice quartzite.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 11, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
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Ok so it wasn't warm but we got a couple of good old school trad routes done on Sunday after my brother and I did our Mother's day duties.We did the a Variation to the first pitch of the Retable Route called Other Truckers Favorite done by Bob Archabald in the early '80's I think. We then finished with the awesome last half of the Retable Route which I believe was done by the Conn's in the '50's. You do about 200ft and then do a really long overhaging move for a route done that long ago and then climb up a giant ear like flake and mantel or "retable"onto it before entering an overhanging squeeze chimney that deposits you on top of Inner Outlet. We then went on to do Pratt's Crack on Photagrapher's Peak. It has a long Squeeze chimney before we moved right on to a variation on the face that you can do all in one pitch with a 70m rope, but just barely. I think Pratt put that up in the early '60's.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2010 - 07:10pm PT
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Will it ever be warm again? Gorgeous photos. Can't wait to go back and play some more.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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May 11, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
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I'll be there in August! How far are the needles from devils tower?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 11, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
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Its about two hours between the Needles and the Tower. Supposed to be in the 70's this weekend.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 11, 2010 - 08:41pm PT
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It's not the Third Pillar of Dana Crimpie but I guess it will have to do.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 11, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
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cool thread just keeps going.
Z
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 11, 2010 - 09:28pm PT
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When the time is right we'll get you there during a vedauwooo boogaloo, Zbro, you'll love it!
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 11, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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Bump!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 11, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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One of the best climbs I have done there is East Gruesome. Bob Kamps said it was the finest summit the Conn's achieved. It goes up a chimney to some intermittent cracks until you hit the right slanting crack you can see at the top of the first picture and you traverse around the other side and finish off on a nice hand crack. Before that though you get the business. A crack given 8+ in the Piana book, but I would say it would be more like 10b if it were at Devil's Tower. Yu then hang a belay off a flake and have some serious runouts on a hanging slab protected by RP's. I think this rarely gets done but it is a great route in a great setting.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 20, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
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Getting nice again. Spent some time climbing quartzite a couple of days ago. the snow is pritty much goneNot the Needles, but not too far away.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 20, 2010 - 05:06pm PT
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there's sandstone in Rapid City proper? trippy when I was there, everything looked flat as hell (except of course of the BH)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 20, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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Mike M, the East Gruesome is one of my favorite Needle's Climbs. It has been quite a while since I did it last, but is it possible that your shot is reversed? Somehow I remember that flake being left of the crack, but I could certainly be wrong...
One of the best (of the classic) Needles outings is to combine the East Face of the East Gruesome with the South Tower of Spire Four, which is right there when you rap off the East Gruesome.
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