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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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//This is how it went down. If Bacher was alive he would confirm.
1.Bacher Yerian
2.Shippopi
3.Kurt and Ed.
4. C Griffeth no falls witness by myself and Bacher
5.S Cosgrove no falls one week after CG. Witness by Bacher
6.Moffet
7.Maybe Waugh hi did years after me and Cristain.
Those are facts, I was there and lived through it. Bacher told me//
Coz, It's BACHAR. B_A_C_H_A_R.
Other than that, I'm sure those are the facts and I'm sure that you would know.
Arne
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
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Don't wish to speak for Mike, but here goes.
Mike has photos of him and Daryl climbing it, John took them and gave mike some copies to keep.
The date stamped on the back of the Kodak prints is "Aug 84" ....
Mike doesn't "do" computers, so we will try and get these scanned and posted on ST.
I hope we can raise up some more $$$$$$$ for TYRUS.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Jan 19, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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If Moffet did it in '85, who else did it in '85? There can't be that many, right?
Therefore I'm thinking Todd Worsfold's August '85 ascent should be in the first 10, perhaps #7 or 8?
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jan 19, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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(My post above)Sept 1985 first pitch only due to late start, (Darkness saved my LIFE?)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 09:35pm PT
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Thanks, Walter. The Southern Belle FA was in spring/1986 (and Karma in 7/1986), so that means Dave Schultz first did the Bachar-Yerian in late 1985, about the 10th ascent, unless Gullich and Zak got in before that.
Here's what I think the list looks like, based on what people have posted.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mike gave me this, John took the photo, on the back you can read the "datestamp"...... back in the days of film, remember.
and flip it over
just to get it right.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Sweet shot Guy, thx for posting. Wazoooooooo run baby run
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Greg Epperson
climber
Joshua Tree
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.. He did the Photo shoot because Greg wanted photos of someone doing it in the sun for the better light, photographically speaking
What I wanted was to photograph John doing his route, we had this arranged and at the last moment John backed out and offered up Dave, disappointing for me but I was still psyched to photograph the route. I've been sick to my stomach with fear (for the climber) twice photographing climbs, this was one of those times. The protection directly below Dave in this photo is a drapped knob, no girth hitch, Dave just pulled the shoulder sling off and set it on the knob. The first bolt is somewhere below.
Epi
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Some fascinating history and stories here - thanks!
Does anyone know if John or Dave ever did the route a second time?
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dustonian
climber
Foresta
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Best thread in a long time, thanks Shipoopois!
You in Chile??
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Somewhere out there in Climber Land is a picture of John doing the first ascent of the B&Y. I know because it used to be on my wall in San Carlos. I made it from a slide that Dave lent me one time. I gave the slide and the picture back to Bachar eons ago after using it in an article on face climbing for the American Alpine Journal (AAJ), probably in 1981. In any case, AAC should have an internegative that they used for the printing.
This string knocked me on my head and made me remember. Think there's a scanned version of my article somewhere on this forum.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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from the American Alpine Journal 1982 article by Bruce Morris "Method and Madness; Evolution of Yosemite Face-Climbing Standards" page 41
This image appears on page 43:
it is possible that the original was lost in the fire that took much of John's collection of memorabilia.
A quote from that article:
"But despite the egotism and paranoia, it does seem quite possible to utilize more sophisticated means of protection placement while pre-serving an open-ended, summit-directed leading experience. The Bachar/Yerian route on Medlicott Dome in Tuolumne Meadows provides an example of such a productive crossover. What few protection bolts there are were placed by means of a hook, which is standard practice in Dresden where Bachar encountered it on a European visit. Such an arrangement allows the leader to move up confronting virgin territory while making independent decisions about length of run-out. This is a more adventurous tactic than beginning a route at the top and placing protection in advance on rappel. (Still, it should be kept in mind that preplacement, as long as the original number of bolts is never increased, does have the advantage of avoiding yo-yoing, sieging, and the drilling of bolt ladders.) Nevertheless, the bolt placements on the Bachar/Yerian, besides being very exciting in their own right, remove any doubt about the route being only an ambitious boulder problem. Bachar did exercise a fine critical judgment when placing protection, and the route now exists as an independent entity to be repeated by subsequent parties according to a pattern established by its first ascensionists."
[and kudos to the AAC for providing their archives to the community]
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Steve, Lionel ?? from NZ did it the summer you put up Shippopi. He and I were climbing the day you put that route up. Remember this NZ dude you were climbing with, Lance or Guy or some such. He was built like a linebacker and took a lead fall which pulled you about ten feet up. He must of out weighed you by about a hundred pounds....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Anders,
> Does anyone know if John or Dave ever did the route a second time?
Yes. See John's post from the longer thread:
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 16, 2007 - 10:28am PT
I think I've done it three times - once with Yerian, once with Moffatt, and once with Dave Shultz (only the first three pitches though with Dave - we replaced the bolts on that one).
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Here's a color original photo of the FA, from the longer thread:
photo by Brenda Lugo Bachar, posted by Walter
(sorry I messed up her name in my version of the list - it's corrected now)
The longer thread is:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/375380/Bachar-Yerrian
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Mar 11, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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bump
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 21, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
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Just the thought of hanging off a skyhook laced around a fragile knob drilling a bolt gives me the jibblies.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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The most recent ascent of the B&Y was TODAY. Congragulations Andrew!!! Can't wait to hear the story.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Congratulations
to Andrew Rock and Jan McCollum.
Andrew onsighted the Bachar-Yerian today! Jan followed and was strong for the send.
Right now it's party time..he was smooth the whole way!
Cheers!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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BadasssssssssS!!!!!
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