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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 25, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
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Also, someone cut A TON of branches with a saw on the way up the approach. I assume it was Nanook and friend based on the picture of the saw at their bivy. I think this was total overkill, so much for "leaving no trace." A route like this definitely doesn't need a full on approach trail up to it; judging by the amount of pins on it plenty of people made it up there without a saw.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 25, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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- would be chill to update this thread with the pics whether-or-not you put together a seperate trip report. Thanks, and "attaboys".
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 15, 2011 - 06:53pm PT
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@ Mike: I did that route back in ~81, and no, there wasn't a Chouinard era bolt on the last pitch. I only remember a handful on the entire route. Just friction on that last pitch, and some small wires. We did the A2 variation before the pendulum, and basically did it clean even wayyyyyy back then, hand placed a few pins, stood on a hook latched over a mashie or 2, and used a couple of cracknups and a hand placed wooly mammoth tusk (We all carried those back in the day just in case, despite what Bridwell says). I reckon I agree that folks should probably leave the hammer in the haulbag or at home on this one. And certainly, sawing limbs on approaches in national parks is poor form. Not to mention illegal.
But you can certainly catch more flies with honey than vinegar....maybe we should engage these Trip Report guys in discussion about this stuff. They seem like reasonable sorts.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jun 13, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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Are the quarter domes accessible this time of year? What would the river crossing be like?
I'm ok with wet as long as its not too deep/deadly...
Thanks!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 13, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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Luke,
Apparently the best approach is to take the Half Dome trail to a notch south of West Quarter Dome, then down the gulley along the base of West Quarter Dome and East Quarter Dome.
It also allows you to stash water and sleeping bags at the rim, so you can just do the route in a day without carrying extra stuff up the route.
This should be accessible now.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 13, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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any other routes on quarter domes?
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christophotopolis
Trad climber
sierras
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Last spring I soloed Pegasus in 14.5 hours. first one day/solo?? Speed record? If I hadn't climbed an entire pitch off route at the ledge traverse I probably would have saved a few more hours. The 10c r section has two bolts and is .9 a0. That saved some nailing and more shenanigans and allowed for some linking. ( I was physched) I blew a lower out following p11 and took a HUGE swing to the anchor. So that fixed lower out will need replacing. It was an amazing adventure, I climbed with one rope and took no jumars which I kind of regretted. Ha. My first time out there I took to much, got worked on the approach, ate all my food at the base and pre-bailed. So on the second go I went super light. :)
Eric- thanks the topo and bolt work. It gave me the inspiration/ confidence to go for it.
For everyone complaining about chopped trees limbs on the approach - go complain to nps about there parking lots, tunnels, green dragons, and concessionaires. That's the real problem with Yosemite, not faint climbers trails.
-Chris Moore
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zantoman
Trad climber
Tahoe, CA
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Sep 16, 2015 - 10:49pm PT
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Chris,
How much aid gear did you end up needing for Pegasus? Could it go clean?
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 28, 2015 - 10:08am PT
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The approach on this thing is a real beast. From Tenaya Canyon it took us over twice as long as suggested in the Yosemite Big Walls book & forget about doing it by headlamp if you haven't scoped it out before hand. IDK if we just didn't hit the right line but there was substantial bush whacking up the slabs.
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