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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 21, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Bruce!
I initialy started climbing with the RCS of the Sierra Club(Jerry Galwas went on one outing)@Fall 70' we went to Woodson several times, and along with stories of Robbins and the Robbins crack, stories about the Poway Mountaineers/Poway Mt. Boy's were well established, and held in high esteem. And the three names I recall them mentioning over and over are Greg Cameron, Ric Piggot, and Dave Goedell! I ran into Ric as early as 71' at Woodson.
I also remember a story involving either Ric's little brother or Greg's little brother climbing the Robbins crack and falling and breaking his leg/ankle when he attempted to down-climb it!!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
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Hey Johnny, I've already submitted a correction on that V rating discrepancy on Raindance (rc.com) and changed it to a V8 per http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing);.
Gosh, I thought this thread was dead! Any way of deleting a post?
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 21, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
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gonamok- "Hairy, airy highball/solo climbs..."
Speaking of hairy solo climbs, do you recall around the Spring of 1983, Mission Gorge, seeing this guy on-sight free-solo that fist crack that leans left and goes over a bulge WAY off the deck(80-90+ ft.).
He soloed the crux and rather than finish the upper crack @5.6 he down-climbed the crux!! I think the off sized fist crack was rated 5.10b at the time! I don't recall the name of it. I just recall you were at the bottom watching, or coming up the trail at the time.
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 22, 2010 - 04:15am PT
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The route you are thinking of escapes me, was it up on the second tier or the main cliff? Also do you recall where the climb was in relation to the wasp (central buttress, where the trail ends)? Soloing on site at the gorge is serious bizness due to the greasy rock and inobvious sequences involved, so you have piqued my curiousity.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Jan 22, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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TripL7! I'm scratching my shiny head to imagine your identity. Maybe you could e mail me unless you want to stay a masked man. I did know a few San Diego climbers, Dennis Sullivan climbed with a regular partner I never met and whose real name I never knew and for awhile I didn't know Dennis's name--we simply called the one "Mission" and the other "Gorge" because that's where they climbed alot.
A couple of years later, Greg Cameron, Dennis Sullivan, Rick Piggot and I teamed up for a killer experience climbing the Olancha cliffs in the Southern Sierra. Maybe that filtered into the San Diego milieu a bit. But Dennis drove and made us listen to Elton John the entire way there and back!
It was the brush clearing, huge Poway-Ramona Fire in '68 that really helped egg on Woodson activity. One of the very few groups of climbers I remember meeting early on at Woodson was memorable. The star athlete was an exceptionally muscular individual who had a formal background in Gymnastics and I think was connected to the Navy in some way. He was an impressive boulderer, but I never saw or heard of him again. Any chance you were in that group?
Illusion Dweller--you're puzzling me. Why did you start a new thread in the first place and now why and whose post do you want to delete?? These threads have resulted in the highest level of Woodson Consciousness ever, I suppose. Bruce
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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Why don't you do the climb to understand the rating instead of downrating it publically without ever doing it? Do you downrate everything you can't climb that someone younger has put up? Is Realization not 5.15a then? Does it bother you that someone else climbs that hard and you can't?
So confused about the logic there.....
Josh
Edit: OK, he has two ratings on RC.com. I didn't look it up. Still, it was probably just a mistake on his part. He has said it's possibly the hardest boulder problem in SD County, and V11 is consistent with what he has told me for a rating.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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The problem is calling V11 5.13B(the YDS rating given to that problem), which it is not. V11 is solid 5.14.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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Yeah I don't know why he called it 5.13b... I'm pretty sure he means V11
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gonamok
Trad climber
poway, ca
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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I remember going to check out starface with Greg Epperson and Michael Paul right after it had been put up. It is a stunningly clean and steep face thats at least 30 feet tall with 2 thin edging/friction routes on it, the easiest 11a or b. We shoe up and are scoping the lines when greg just starts climbing. He never looked sketchy, but he was clearly cranking some thin moves way way off the deck. Greg was barely over the top when mike seized the challenge, and with some serious focus he also soloed it in fine style.
When i climbed it on TR i found it to be stiff 11b, and not a move easier than 10c. In fact it finished with a half dozen 11a moves in a row and when i looked down from that section and imagined being solo it nearly made me sick. Unbelievable on sight solos by a couple of the most talented woodson locals to ever pull down on MW stone. Freaking stainless steel gonads. Another gem in the crown of woodsons highball legacy.
Ive got pics, and ill post em if i can round em up.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 22, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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Face routes tend to be dificult to rate. 12a or V4 is very hard, and from what i've seen, V6 or 7 is about as hard as it gets. If Raindance is indeed V11, whoever can climb at that level would easily walk up any of the other hardest testpieces at Woodson(12+ or V6), which I doubt. My main point is that modern boulderers tend to way overrate face climbs without working thru the grades of established testpieces for consensus. Once I send that rig, I'll downrate it to V6 which is as hard as I climb.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
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LCC has some overhanging extreme crimp problems that make pretty good benchmarks for thin climbing on granite. crimpy, vertical or slightly less than vertical V11 face climbs there -- i think there are only three or four -- are often tried but very, very rarely succeeded on by some of the very very best young boulderers around. i'm thinking of problems like "the o face" and "huge". i think huge has only been done twice?
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Johannsolo: You have no idea who Dan is, or how hard he climbs, do you?
If V6/7 is as hard as it gets, then why are there routes rated in the V15 (and arguably harder) range across the globe?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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You need to fully read my post. It is FACE routes i am refering to. Hell, any 12 year old 90 pound kid can crank out V8 overhanging crimps after 6 months in the gym. That same kid will get smacked down on a V1 face.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
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You heard it here, face routes get no harder than V6.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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Alright Johan. Following your own statements: if you climb V6, and face routes get no harder than V6, it's within your ability. Cut me an e-mail when you can send it. If I see you do the problem in person, I'll buy you a 12 pack of beer of your choice. Maybe you could style it for us at the Mt. Woodson gathering? I mean Dan is just a 12 year old 90 lb kid who falls off V1. Surely you can get the 2nd ascent of his overrated route?
:)
Josh
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 22, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
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i don't believe ANYONE has done it. dab! totally invalid without pics!!
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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I've seen a movie of him doing it. You could ask him to do it at the Woodson Shindig, but due to the nature of thin face who knows if he'll be successful? I have no idea if he has it "wired" or not. I think he's only done it twice.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jan 22, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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I tell you, the sharp, loose flakes on that face are breaking off. A couple broke off two weekends ago. If anyones looking for some extreme face, check out the face to the left of Mighty Edge.
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Jan 22, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
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Here's the pic stolen from rc.com
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 22, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
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oh, that thing? that's raindance? people have been trying that since the 70's! you can see all the holds are there, but damn they're small. there was a bit of chalk on it when beehey and i were there over christmas.
good send, ftw!
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