Tomaz Humar Injured

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philo

Trad climber

Somewhere halfway over the rainbow

Nov 14, 2009 - 01:35pm PT

RIP. Another sad loss.

habitat

climber

grass pass

Nov 14, 2009 - 01:37pm PT

Really sad news. Prayers out to his family, friends, and country.

Thank you Sherpas & Swiss.

Jan

Mountain climber

Okinawa, Japan

Nov 14, 2009 - 01:38pm PT

Here are some more details about the attempted rescue. This was the first time this particular rope technique and model of helicopter were used in Nepal. The pilot was Nepali, the rescuers Swiss.

http://www.explorehimalaya.com/blog/unusual-rescue-by-fishtail-air-helicopter/

Tomaz could not be saved, but this rescue attempt and the technique developed should benefit many climbers in the future.

May his friends and family take some comfort from that thought.

Jerry Dodrill

climber

Sebastopol, CA

Nov 14, 2009 - 02:51pm PT

Damn. Peace to his children and family.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Nov 14, 2009 - 03:41pm PT

When Tomaz Humar came to Yosemite in 1998 to solo Reticent Wall, then one of El Cap's hardest, nobody would give him any beta! They didn't believe he could do it!

Tomaz didn't really have much experience soloing big walls, so I suggested he buy Chongo's book, which he did.

F*#k, man, can't believe he's dead. He cheated death so many times.

TYeary

Social climber

State of decay

Nov 14, 2009 - 03:45pm PT

He was such a prolific soloist on hard alpine, big mountain ground that it was inevitable at some point. I am saddend by his passing, but not suprised. The kind of climbing that Tomaz did is beyond the realm, the experiance, of most climbers and cragers. In my limited alpine carear, I have had the feeling for a while now, that my days doing what I do in the big mountains were coming to a end. One can only spend so long in the shooting gallery, reguardless of skill set, experiance. One day the luck runs out and you are in the right place at the wrong time .........
My condolences to friends and family.
Peace, Tomaz.
Tony

shipoopoi

Big Wall climber

oakland

Nov 14, 2009 - 10:15pm PT

wow, this is a surprise...it seemed like tomaz was on of those invincible guys. he played the game hard, and well, and his exploits will continue to inspire the coming hardmen.
my sincere condolences to his friends and admirers. of course, i feel especially bad for the family that he left behind, his kids that have to grow up without their daddy anymore. i
and kudos to the pilot and swiss rescue team for rushing to the scene, and risking their own necks to save tomaz. it is true bravery indeed to man up like that. simon anthabatta(sp?), an aquantaince of mine, was also on the annupurna rescue of last year. his willingness to help out in these situations exemplifies the comraderie that seems to have died in this era of guided big peaks but used to be prevalent BITD. if there is a recuer of the year award, simon would get my vote.
peace, steve schneider

Conrad

climber

Nov 14, 2009 - 11:05pm PT

With condolences and empathy. He was a great man.

From his book "No Impossible Ways":

"I am thankful for the grace I have been given. Where do I go from here? The common denominator of all my expeditions, adventures and aspirations has been the call of the face. Although I will not let you write about me, I wish to add a page to the diversity of humankind."

Thanks Tomaz for adding to the diveristy. I'll miss your iron grip.

rockermike

Trad climber

Berkeley

Nov 14, 2009 - 11:50pm PT

Very sad ending. He was a hero of sorts for me.

I believe it was after his Dhaulagiri climb that he commented he figured his odds were 50/50 of surviving that climb. How many times can you flip a coin without coming up heads? I think this points to a natural limit to how hard and how far climbers can push themselves - particularly in an environment where the objective dangers are so high. I envy Tomaz' courage even while I wonder where such trajectories lead - both for the individual and for the climbing community broadly, and why..

rest in peace, and say hi to John, Muggs, Bhul, Anatoli, Wanda, Alex and all the rest of our fallen heroes living now on high...

Binks

Social climber

Nov 16, 2009 - 07:23pm PT

I love that picture of him on the Reticent. PTPP can you repost that? It's a triumphant moment and seems the best way to remember Humar.

Misha

Trad climber

Woodside, CA

Nov 16, 2009 - 08:49pm PT

I am not PPTP but I think you have this photo in mind

(reposted from Humar's website)

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Nov 16, 2009 - 10:19pm PT

Uggghh, this sucks....

Sorry for people that knew him, and more importantly his family. God bless them and may he rest in peace.

Talk about a bad year...

John Mac

Trad climber

Littleton, CO

Nov 16, 2009 - 10:24pm PT

Very sad that he passed away.

When he climbed Reticent, didn't he use just the one Aider?

Great pic by the way.

Binks

Social climber

Nov 16, 2009 - 10:27pm PT

Thanks for posting the pic and thanks to Tomaz for his inspiration. Godspeed Tomaz Humar.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Nov 16, 2009 - 10:34pm PT

Looks like he has three aiders in this photo of Reticent. He used the Euro method whereby you hang the aider off of a fifi.

I always liked this one.

Photos by MATEJ MEJOVSEK, given to me by Tomaz who said I could use them. {sigh}

There's a funny little story that goes with the photos, about how his detractors wouldn't give him beta or even a topo, but he sent anyway.

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Nov 16, 2009 - 11:02pm PT

Great guy, full of positive energy. And if you shook his hand, you best be ready (otherwise the bones got rearranged or worse!).

Pretty tough arena to spend time in. Condolences to his friends and family.

Heavy sigh...

-Brian in SLC

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Nov 16, 2009 - 11:04pm PT

Oh my gosh, yes - his handshake! Holy frig, was he strong!

Conrad

climber

May 27, 2010 - 07:39pm PT

Just back from Kathmandu and the world of international high altitude climbing. Ed Douglas' article in R & I a few issues back was very well written. Thanks Ed.

Earlier in the winter the heli service that performed the search mentioned the sizeable bill that their work had incurred. I asked again last week and the outfit informed me that the Slovenian Alpine Club (with which Tomaz one might say "was at odds with") came into town, paid the bill in full. No questions, no haggling.

I've always had big respect for Slovenian climbers. In addition to carting 'em around in a wheelbarrow they took care of their own, regardless of differences.

Proud.