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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 21, 2015 - 01:49am PT
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The many many climbers, I have heard about and the one or two + that I knew well persons dear to many too have died on that choss pile, Kevin Bien! He was the greatest nee bee go read the "mayor of the Gunks Appreciation thread he was so much to so many here but to his sweety he was of course the entire world, when she came home with out Kevin it was worse for the climbing world than even to ins death no disrespect but Kevin was super safe all top rope since sizeures from a bad fall in '69?? I think oh please do not flame me on this it all always tears us up but I tell it true the world stopped when Tobin and Kevin died
Nee bees bless you!! Zb too,I know that it iz a painters dream of lite, white ,blue rocks mica reflect ing light and ice ,snow a peak of ultimate desire, it has kilt to many even a great lady climber for me to love that one peak among the thousands that I can look at that one I hate to look upon,
I told mouse and every one here back pages Why , such a personal share it would drive many a Man to despair and cause the unretreatable, climb, a step to oblivion, but my soul is missing a chip
No shame in it for me in the Tower of London to die there at an early age not that I hve not lived torturous medical procedures later in life some times it is nice to share un cryptically
Thanx mouse keep it between us please but bar that in '62 a plane blew up from dynamite its tail blowing off mid flight, and took a famous tailor who was flying I think to Kansas city??
Argh the Shablet has a freak out point and diaper what's been tapped down it is its cut and paste function that always lets me down and produces in me a ache, but looks a though I have a head injury, some contend I must
Ever been hit by lightning? That is a thread I should start - fishing for the Stanley Smigel
Who climbed Evry where but the ditch as far as I know, could never figure out why?
Seems that fair weather friends are the curse of you and I, I love real and true too easy and have been hurt so many times I now only have animal become human friends who I spoil till the cry uncle and the vet tells us no, none table scraps
Pancreatic attacks. From proteins, and fats, no more table srcaps for the unconditional love of my life she is fifteen!!
Tonight right now on the Telly a dog is being saved by CPR ohh my what a save!!
Aric, a doggy malidie a hart condition, in DOGZ! Have you ever seen the tv show
Whaddyado!
It is an up all night or up inthe wee hours show it is after four am here now, and they just keep playin fascinating stuff
Thirty chest compressions to two life breaths and like all cpr keep at it and pray!
The ARVC is the hart malady auto correct is a major pain in the but the Shablet share ugh!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 02:12am PT
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"That's no ordinary kitty...that's the most foul-tempered and nasty creature..."--Monty Python
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 02:35am PT
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This is a different Maureen from the one who married my climbing pard.
They had an epic together at the top of Royal Arches in the seventies.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 02:42am PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 21, 2015 - 04:38am PT
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Burst'Pipe
'too fuzzy in the cold the camera
says
"could not correct Image"
It does get a little easier the higher that you climb, this was far more hazordous than it might appear,. Each single finger pad, sized edge was coated with a thin veneer of ice.
It was -8 yes eight below zero without accounting for wind chill.'
Pray for me to STOP !
Toast, drink n' 'more, to my memory, name a climb after me
Over looking New York City on the Pallisades rising from the banks OfThe
Hudson River the home ofthe Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Speak of the passion of the climbers who left us in 2011 & 2014!
Say cheers and give a toast & Puff to
my name when the last rays of the sun are setting on a day of great sends
I desever some cheers as I was saved by rock and roll, climbing never did me in
Climb safe and prosper, it is the best nothing we can do!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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Let it rest.
RIP.
Let it be.
Can't you see?
We have all been here before.
With you Big Jim could mop the floor.
And this is not Bitch Central, as I interjected.
The places you mention are protected.
From the likes of them who can and them who rant.
Who are we to believe?
This is NOT the place to create dissent, unrest, and clamor.
It is a bower, not a bastion.
We are not at war.
Especially with iconic names.
Come to an Oakdale Fest without a mask
Introduce yourself and take "them" to task.
But don't do it here in my sandbox-not-a-soapbox.
I get to rant, not you.
I'm the decider.
I have spoken.
Thank you for listening.
Also, thanks for sharing the passion.
But I'm just too fawk'n tired and have no fight left in me.
Moderate, Goderate. Sheesh!
This has nothing to do with anything just said.It's just a nice old photo from my favorite resident of Foresta, Miss Sargent.
Just like this one.
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Gypsy
Social climber
Usually behind the camera
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Feb 21, 2015 - 06:01am PT
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Randy's dad was a combat correspondent during World War II and later a professional photographer. He was in Hiroshima about two or three days after the bomb. I never met him as he died at age 45 of cancer when Randy was 18.
This is one of his photographs. I thought you would like it Mouse since you seem to like old photographs. And even though it is in The Flames thread, it doesn't seem too inflammatory.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 06:21am PT
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It's da bomb, Gypsy!
Tanks!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 21, 2015 - 07:57am PT
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Sorry sir I am so sorry to have used the flames as my palate over night,
Trying to fight the good fight with the Shablet I had hoped to move it out here before even you saw it!
but pipes burst
life sucks and this had, as it should,had to take a back seat
I am out of towels and the shut off is frozen under two feet of snow
Ignor the holy boulders rant every one
I will take it down !
I will soon as I can copy it by hand to Daddy'O's note book!
Anyone else use books of paper?
Why, why, why
Nancy Carrigan cry!! After Jeff Tooley smacked her in the knee with a pipe.
And big Jim is like my uncle Hans or grandpa Fritz, not to worry his sense of humor stil, well six years ago was tolerant of puney me
I have a call !!
Let's bastardized it though
Grockenhasseblad!!
It is a special
A sandwich at Charlie's deli? I don't think so!
Strange guide book referance ment to insult the father of fee climbing FEE or a pitence to
offset the threat that big Jim presented
That was Mohonk '61 or '62, then it became a preserve
Big Jim has no sense of humor about that I know !
Oh no I'm still raving mad and the pipe the pipes are calling
Me impercuneum, will bang a gong befor a bong although
I am clearly out of my mind now!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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pipes are froze
I'm all a-doze
don't freeze yer toes
yeh, you got woes
good luck widdat shuddoff
don't be thinkin' schmirnoff
it's a ridiculous 52 here
it's all overcast uncleare here
Doc Plummsit.
My jury duty is done for another year...the guy plead to a lesser charge and they sent us home without even seating us.
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Gypsy
Social climber
Usually behind the camera
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Feb 21, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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Temperatures are cccccccccold here in the Blue Ridge. I would rather be hiking in the rain in merry ol' england again...or better yet lost in the maquis of Corsica...
The brown thrasher is a migrating bird and the state bird of Georgia. I never see them in my garden except in the summer. Looking out my window today, there was a brown thrasher sitting on the bird bath. One very confused bird I would say. Or perhaps he wanted to go ice skating on the water in the birdbath. Dunno..
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gypsyflores/4519627764/in/photostream/
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Feb 21, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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!Gee gnome, ice climbing using only hands and feet. Where do we send the news vans?
Gotta watch the slippery stuff, this guy went postal on it. Maybe they'll just Skype ya.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 21, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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You will love this one my kids got me a subscription to a rag and it never comes Can you C I need to keep
My anonymity cause I'm known for going postal.
if I can track my mags down I might try and make a stink
The best description of me came from Yabo who said if you ever get to full size that guy is gonna be in real trouble,
He was explaining not who he was but why he came up on the end of my line like a big Blue Marlin as opposed to the rainbow trout I was expecting, he said I laid the fvcker out in front of the girls he was flexing for instead of belaying you when you started hanging off the anchor I thought he was gonna drop YA!,
(I was goofing around celebrating the send) I thought he was gonna drop Me too!
What is the whole green dragon,> Mr Natural >Point beyond>Cosmic Comedy to the top three pitches called? That is what we did.
As I read it the apron and rockfall help keep smokin duck's employees very busy??
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Feb 21, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
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Anjuna Market in Goa 1975
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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Life is precious.
Is it wise to risk it?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtbzvn0umEo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJfHnLHUhdA
All this swearing and violence on TV has sent me over the [expletive deleted] brink.
And the lyin'. Don't forget the lyin'.
aH HuMPBuG!
It’d take too many hours
Too many ice cold showers
To take away the pain
In the end I’d still be retchin’
Over truth that they be stretchin’
Cable news is so darn vain
They seldom take the middle
They’re biased just a little
And stupid in the main
With the lies that they are spreadin’
You’d think that we are headin’
As a species down the drain.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
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With out the possibility of death there is no adventure.
--Words to that effect from Reinhold Messner.
Adventure has dumbed down
It’s sad to see things like Big Mike and Sandra’s epic on Sunnyside Bench.
It’s even sadder to see the lame attempt which I made on Boxing Day in 2013 with my niece.
The route-finding there is the main problem, the descent is the adventure.
On easy routes there are lots of roots, trees, boulders, some worn hummocks and really greasy holds and WAY TOO MUCH CHALK, but that’s understandable IF chalk really combats grease, which I don’t think it does.
I might talc about chalk later in a rant somewhere but this is about how not to cheat yourself of the possibility of adventure on your next climb.
First of all, choose a route you’ve never been on before. This should be obvious and it has unlimited potential.
Second, don’t choose a route which has a lot of high numbers. Why? You want to spend all morning on one little sequence or do you want to get up the thing? And you may be glad because there are only so many daylight hours.
Which brings us to the fun stuff. When did you last replace the battery in your headlamp? Or do you remember? If you don’t remember, then by all means toss the thing into the ruck. Rely on your native luck.
Do you have a head band? You should. They are cool as f*#k [expletive deleted]and if you take pictures even on easy climbing you’ll probably look better in the shots. Helmets are basically anti-adventure.
Plan on getting off the climb in just a few hours. This works better if you are a week-ender. There are more excuses for screwing up and no one will expect any better showing from a WEEK-ENDER.
This will mean going with minimal water, no sweater or wind-breaker, and no tennies for approach and descent.
Take just one rope.
Take a large rack, of course.
You bought it, use it as much as you can.
The more pro you stick in the more time it takes and the more your chances for adventure increase.
NO GUIDE BOOK! De rigeur.
NO CELL PHONE! Sheesh [expletive deleted] Criminy!
GO-PRO if ya got one and if ya never used it before.
Leave some food in the back seat of the car for luck.
Have a good time.
Cheers, berg heil, and don’t forget the bum-wad.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 21, 2015 - 11:57pm PT
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Adventuresome duo.Ready for adventure.
No helmets need apply.
Do it all on the fly.
Charge ahead you'll find the way;
If not there'll be another day.
Fail to plan or plan to fail,
Let's just do it!
Oh, no! It's hail!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 22, 2015 - 03:21am PT
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Why homeless Britons are turning to the Sikh community for food
http://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-magazine-monitor-31557192
Article on line and passed on to me by a Sikh friend of one of my cousin's daughters.
And my story about an encounter at the library.
On the way home from the county jury selection process a few days ago, I stopped into the county library.
I had not been into the place in quite a while as the card they gave me was stolen along with my wallet last summer.
It was not a top priority to replace it.
However, I really wanted some books on the International Exposition from 1915.
The computer catalog listed several located in the Stoddard Room, which houses Californiana and some of the older and better-known California authors' first editions.
There were none of the ones I needed to look at on the shelves.
I took my problem to the circulation desk and spoke with a woman about twenty-five years or so younger than I.
It turns out that Sheryl knew me well enough through my wife Liz to let me go ahead and waive the California ID business.
She issued me a new card with a key-chain dealibob and now I can check out books again.
She had to charge me one dollar out of the two that were due in fines, however.
What nerve!
She remembered Liz fondly because they hung out with the local bikers.
Sheryl came to our wedding! I didn't know her, nor did I know her and Liz's biker buddies.
But it was like always, with Mama Liz, she had befriended Sheryl back then and had given her much thoughtful advice and helped her out a few times in sticky situations.
It's just amazing how little acts of kindness and thoughtfulness now come back on you years and years later.
So we can thank Sheryl and Liz for the sequence of images from the Exposition and the rest: of the Solomons, the last century's notable events, etc. that have appeared here in the last few days.
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